Leash training

I think I would use the front hook halter and treats outside. But I think I'd start inside without a leash. I like to get the dog to heel and then add the leash.

You're getting another dog???  

I might try the halti since my instructor uses one so she can show me how.  I'd rather not use anything, but the biggest room in our house offers a dog his size enough space for maybe 5 steps, and he's going to have to be walked and go out before he's perfectly leash trained.  On a flat collar, he throws his entire weight against it and no one has ever done anything to re-train or correct this, so unfortunately he's used to walking the human!  I just wonder if a halti is dangerous for a large powerful dog already used to pulling?  Won't that injure his head/neck?  I don't want to use a prong, but maybe it would be safer.

My trainer doesn't use a Halti OR Gentle Leader any more because if you have a super puller they can literally damage their own neck (as in sprain their neck/cause arthritis) by pulling against the head-halter.

Luna is a super puller -- but the Sporn has been awesome for her.  I have never used an  'Easy Walk' so can't comment.

The sporn is a pain in the butt to put on the first time -- but once you get it adjusted you don't unhook the straps under the legs.  You just loosen it at the back of the neck and slide the legs out and then take the collar off the head.  The collar does NOT NOT NOT need to be at all tight.  I slide Luna's right off over her head.  They can't get out of a Sporn.  PetSmart carries them.

corgipower

you might try the halti harness.

I've got a Halti harness and I love how it works. I have to admit I like it better than the EasyWalk, but both work pretty identically. And that would be my choice of pull-management devices. ;-) The Halti harness comes with a clip also that you attach the harness to a collar for backup support in case anything should go wrong. It also helps to keep the harness in place.

I would second the advice to work on LLW indoors teaching-wise, using rewards for her walking next to you, and then move it outdoors slowly as your teaching progresses.

Kim_MacMillan

I would second the advice to work on LLW indoors teaching-wise, using rewards for her walking next to you, and then move it outdoors slowly as your teaching progresses.

Just to clarify, this isn't for Kenya, it's for a different dog (male).  She already walks at heel outside without any leash.  The puppy is large so there isn't enough room to properly train and exercise him indoors.  I really wish we had a fenced yard!!!
 

For tools, I like the Easy Walk harness, and if that's not enough, the Comfort Trainer head collar, which is like the Halti or Gentle Leader, but more comfortable. *content removed, advertising* I agree with the poster who mentioned that training inside first, without a leash, is a great idea.

Mod note: Please do not advertise on this site, thank you.

Since you bumped my thread to pitch your site, I'll just add that someone else adopted the dog I mentioned (he was not a match for us) and she is using a Gentle Leader.  We adopted a different dog and use and Easy Walk. 

You actually dont need any kind of special leash, you could use a shoe lace and if you know that right technique the dog wont pull, i have been doing it with different dogs that have been pullers all their life, their owners didnt even walk the dogs because they were impossible to control, i toke their dogs and 5 minutes after i had them walking like pros, here is a website that gives a good description of the technique:

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/articles/dogwalk.htm 

A shoe lace? Ha!  This dog has already ruined two of my leashes, quite a bit thicker/stronger than a shoe lace.  He walks fine on the Easy Walk, I'm glad we went with that for training.  He also has a very nice off-lead heel now, as long as there are no prey animals in sight.  If he was AKC eligible, I'd take him with me to my rally match tomorrow and run him through the novice course.  He cannot be off-lead outside yet, but he's gotten a lot better.  We believe he was kept on a tie out and neglected (we know he was neglected).  For him, a flat collar is associated with pain and neglect, with being tied out and left or with being yelled at and jerked around.  When he is on a flat collar he ignores all verbal communication and eye contact and tries to get as far away as possible.  Sorry, I'm not going to wrap a little shoe lace around the neck of a neglected dog and start jerking him around.  Any other type of collar that feels different to him and he will pay attention and walk nicely, nice eye contact in heel.  He already knows to sit when his leash is going on and sit before we go out the door.  I am happy with his progress.  He will be entered in the next CGC class/test our club offers.

Liesje

A shoe lace? Ha!  This dog has already ruined two of my leashes, quite a bit thicker/stronger than a shoe lace.

Believe me, it does not matter, when you do it right you dont need anything special, after a few days you can even grab the leash with 2 fingers and the dog wont be pulling, the website explains how, it always works for me, if you do it "normally" with the dog walking always in front of you thats when you are giving "permission" to pull

I used to have an Alaskan Malamute (can you say "pull"?) and he broke every leash i had, i needed to buy a chain to strap it into his collar, once i learned the technique i threw the chain to the trash 

 What's the best tool to start with for leash training? 

No leash!  http://www.clickerlessons.com/looseleash.htm  Use a Gentle Leader (acclimate first!) or an Easy Walk or Sporn when you are out and about, but when you want to teach loose leash walking, start in a safe area with no leash (the cue gets attached later when the dog is already doing what you want, so you will have no command for a while using this method).

We may be adopting a dog next week.  He is 10 months, about 70 lbs, and pulls/lunges on the leash. 

If he lunges on the leash, is he also reactive to other dogs?  If so, all the more reason to get a no pull harness, or a head collar and teach him to pay attention to you, not whatever else is going on. http://www.clickerlessons.com/attention.htm

He came from a shelter, and I know how the shelter volunteers are (not very diligent about proper leash training), so in his mind the flat collar and leash = pull pull pull!! 

So, then your job is to immediately fit him with a no pull harness and don't go with him when he pulls - you can use "penalty yards", or "be a tree", but right from the get go, don't reward him for pulling, even if it takes you forty minutes to get out to the car!
The reason dogs pull is that they get where they want to go by doing so.  And, what you reinforce (or, in this case, allow) is what he will continue to do.  The fact that you are starting your relationship by NOT allowing, will go a long way to training him.  Dogs learn in pictures and patterns - if you create the "picture" that says - "when I walk with my new mommy I get where I'm going by keeping the lead loose", then that's what he will learn.  But, you have to be insistent, consistent, and not allow the pulling to get him anywhere - ever.

We live in the city and this is a high energy dog, so this will need to be addressed immediately since we constantly meet dogs, other people, and car traffic on our walks.  What do you recommend? 

If the dog is a "fetch" dog, tire him before the regular walk.  Plan ahead so you have enough time that you will not be tempted to give in and let him pull in order for you to get back home to make it into the shower or off to work - get up earlier if you have to - it will pay off.  At this point, never let anyone walk him who will not adhere to your regimen of not allowing him to yank and win.   Do use a Gentle Leader or Halti Headcollar, IF you can successfully spend the time and acclimate the dog correctly - if you just fit the thing and walk off, that's when you get a lot of pawing and jumping around, which is not good.  If you think you won't have time to do that, get an Easy Walk or a Halti Harness.  Be sure it is fitted so that the chest strap rides parallel to the ground, high on the dog's chest, and that you can just barely squeeze two fingers under each strap.  These harnesses sometimes do loosen, so I advise people to fit the harness properly and then stitch some velcro in, or sew a tack stitch so that the straps don't move.  I just tighten them up again and don't worry about it, but some people get peeved, hence my advice.  Do NOT use a prong on a dog that is reactive to other dogs, or who is fearful or aggressive in any way.  Doing so can make the situation worse, not better. 

Pulling on leash is a tough behavior to modify, especially with dogs that get so confirmed in it, but it can be done, and quite successfully, if you insure a training program that does not provide the dog with intermittent reinforcement for pulling.  If you do, you will have no need for coercion or punishment.  If you don't or can't, then my advice is to use equipment that is humane to insure your safety as a handler, and not resort to punishment to replace good training.

To be very honest, I'd rather see a prong used over a choker.  At least with the prong there is equal pressure around the neck and all that pressure is not getting put on the trachea.

I had a very bull headed young shepherd.....Thor wasn't reactive, he was just stubborn and in a hurry.....and some circumstances got in the way of regular walks since I was in another state, just about the time the hormones kicked in.  I would try to be a tree and end up being pulled down the road on my rump......he's very strong as well as rather stubborn.  Eventually, I did use a prong FOR  A SHORT TIME.  The prong was the tool that allowed me to train him properly.  Once that was accomplished, no more prong.  Today, Thor walks like a gem, and his lead is usually held in my pinkie.

I have two youngsters right now....8 month old puppy mill rescues.  These boys had been in cages since birth.  Manners?  What are those?  They came to me on Monday.  Friday I was able to walk them IN TOWN on lead with both of them on a loose leash.  I don't subscribe to the theory that a dog can't enjoy it's walk...look around, do some sniffing, etc.  The walk is for THE DOG....not for me.  Walking dogs on lead is just flat not going to give them any exercise, so I want to let them enjoy the sniffing, the looking and whatever, so long as they are not dragging me down the street.  Now with these pups I had the advantage of them not having already learned to pull on a lead, yes, but they knew NOTHING about walking on one period.  I also had the advantage of being the first person in their lives to give them GOOD attention, regular meals and loving, so I became the default "mommy" within the first day, and pleasing the mommy is something most youngsters strive to do. 

I don't discount the suggestions Anne made regarding various tools for a dog who is already pulling.Sometimes those are absolutely crucial, but they are tools to assist in the training.  The tools in and of themselves are worthless without the training.  In this case, I didn't need anything other than my voice and attention because these pups didn't know to pull.  But, an 8 month old gsd has developed enough strength that pulling could easily be an option, and with my bad shoulders I *could* have resorted to a lot of things, but didn't NEED to.  Yesterday I put them on drag lines and took them out for a romp in the woods with two of my dogs and they did great.  Even when the others got out front a bit, since they were off lead, these boys stayed within 10 feet or so, and listened....the ears were turned back to HEAR whatever I said.  And when I did encourage them to catch up with the others, they were reluctant to do so.  Sheba finally came back and GOT them and encouraged them to trot along with her.  And since my dogs never go further than the 50' line they were trained on, the pups had plenty of line to roam.  When I called them back to me, they were there in a flash.

So, yes, they were focusing on the walk, but in a way that I find to be a whole lot more fun for the dogs.  I've found that I don't need to be a bully to be the "boss"....and it's a whole lot more fun for everyone involved, myself included, if I just teach them some rules and manners and let them be dogs.