Opinions please: I can't get this dog's attention. Help?

agilebasenji

If the neighbors don't think you're strange, you're doing it wrong.

No danger there :)

Playtraining and Control Unleashed are the 2 books I think I'll start with. 

The games sound like something he'd really get into -- I actually have a longe whip on my back porch -- but I don't have the room to even swing that around.  I think there's a coursing club an hour or two south of me, but not sure if his legs and shoulder would hold up to a lot of stress.  I think he's even been a little uncomfortable with the cooler weather lately.  It's a hard thing to balance, his mind and body.

The first thing I would do is ask the vet if there's a hearing test, and have that checked. Then, before spending your life fighting with him, keep a pencil and paper handy, and document anything you notice that grabs his attention. When you DO get his attention, that is the time to reward him, in some way that HE recognizes.  If you feed him at a certain time or place daily, that's a good place to start. Show him the food, and don't give it to him until he responds in a manner that you can recognize.  Slow and steady progression on this plan should work.

When walking, get rid of the pinch collar, and go to a good choke collar. Adjust it so that it's right up under his jaw, with your lead wrapped behind your back to your left hand, so he can't pull you. Make sure you're on a 4 foot lead, and not one of those retractable ones. When he pulls, just stop and stand there. Once he realizes that you're not choking him, but that he's the one causing it, he'll stop pulling. Once he's stopped, praise him, then resume your walk.

Have you tired treats.

I have the same issue with my boy but I started out small with treats.

 When he is outside standing in the rain and I say come he used to look away from me like I was speaking an lang. he did not understand.Now I say treat treat and he is inside sitting and waiting for that treat.Good luck

cat0

4. "Look at me":  We're not doing it right.  I'm not doing it right.  "Look at me" translates into "Guess where the piece of bacon is hiding".   He knows for sure it's NOT on my face.  If I hold it in my teeth, is that cheating?

 

I haven't read every single post on this thread so forgive me if I'm repeating someone else, but I wanted to comment on this. I start teaching my dogs "watch" from the time they come home, at first around the house with very low distractions, and then VERY gradually increase the distractions. I've just realized that I need to work on this more with Keefer out and about - he's perfect at home, but it all falls apart in the big wide world full of distractions, so we're going back to the drawing board. But I digress.

When I do attention exercises I start by "capturing" the behavior, then marking with a clicker and rewarding. What that means is that I spend some time sitting and observing the puppy so that I can catch him in the act of looking at me. At this point I don't give a command, I want him to offer up the behavior. Puppy looks, click and toss a treat on the floor. Puppy eats the treat, looks back at me, click and toss a treat again. Repeat. The more you can do this, the more likely he is to look at you often. Even if you haven't done this from an early age, it's not too late to start now. When he's looking at you a lot around the house with no distractions, I start asking for the behavior because I want to be able to get it when I ask for it, but I also want them to look to me even when I don't.

I'm not a fan of spitting treats, or holding them up to my face. I'll lure a few times if necessary, but I want my dogs to know that in order to get that treat they have to look AWAY from it and up at my face instead. So I'll hold a treat right in front of their face, and WAIT. The second they stop trying to get the treat and look at me to see what's up, "YES!" and deliver the treat. Work up gradually to holding the watch longer and longer, and start increasing the distractions. My dogs will stare at me intently while I wave my arms around holding a bully stick in each hand. They want that bully stick, but they know they care stare at it all day and they'll never get it. In order to make me give them the treat they have to hold eye contact until released. But like I said, I still need to get to this point out in public, which is what we're working on now. Good luck!

 

So I'll hold a treat right in front of their face, and WAIT. The second they stop trying to get the treat and look at me to see what's up, "YES!" and deliver the treat.

 

That's pretty much what I've done. I will wave a treat around off to my side and then wait for the moment when the dog looks at my face (hey mom wth, why aren't you giving me that treat?!), then blammo, click and reward (though I tend to not reward with the treat I was waving around, I reward from my other hand). You can do the same with a favorite toy as well--wave it off the side, but only reward when they stop looking at the toy and start looking at you. Pretty soon you should have dog who is drilling holes in you with his eyes and does not look away even when a big steak is being waved around in the background. Marlowe picked up on this deal really fast and ever since then has given me amazing attention. I never put a cue word to it though.  If I need his attention I just say his name.

Have you ever thought of using an Animal Communicator???  I used to have a pet sitting service and came across the most amazing woman!!!!  Her name is Sarah Stone--her website is link removed   She is truly amazing--has helped many of my clients and my own dogs!!!!  I could go on forever--JUST AMAZING!!!  She might be just what you need!

Houndlove, with Dena, my ball obsessed girl, I'd make her sit and watch me while I bounced a ball off the ground. It takes a little practice to be able to do that with one hand and catch it using only your peripheral vision while watching your dog, but it's possible. Her reward was a toss of the ball. I worked up to being able to bounce it 5 or 6 times before releasing her and throwing it. Works great if you've got a toy crazy dog, no treats necessary! Keefer loves his toys, but he's a food hound, so I usually work with that for him.

We've always made them sit (or sometimes down) until released at the park before throwing their ball. TONS of distractions there, but they want that ball, and they'll hold the sit even when other dogs come up to sniff them. Sometimes they'll look at other dogs running by without breaking, but we wait until we have their attention before releasing. Dena will usually just lean so she can see around them, lol!  She has absolutely amazing focus when you've got a ball, and she doesn't care how much else is going on. Normally she's a very calm easy going dog, but she's INTENSE when it comes to retrieving.

We find it highly amusing when people are so impressed with her focus at the park, but when you've got a dog that lives for balls, it's the easiest thing in the world to teach. Here she is at an off leash beach:

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I'll just comment on the Basenji breed....They are one of the most difficult breed to 'harness' if you will. They are free spirits. They can catch a bird in mid flight, destroy your home and be loving and kissable. I have known 2 of these critters and they are all decendents of the original group from Africa. I would swear they are possessed! They are curoius and will go from being asleep to 60 mph out the door!!! You do not own them, they will do as they please, when they want. There is nothing 'wrong' with the dog (this is not medical advice, clear it with your vet)but...live and learn. On the other hand - they are so smart it's creepy! They are hysterical with their antics and their utterances (I'm assuming you are aware they don't bark). They are great dogs but you have to work with their (this breed) natural instincts and tendancies. It does sound like you might be using too much force with corrections. I do suggest Cesar Millan - "You can Be a Pack Leader" new book just out. While some folks find him controversial, he is effective, compassionate and basically thinks like a dog. Take a breath, educate yourself on this high octane breed, read the book which is a quick read once you get going - and keep me posted. Nancy K

Hi there,

I just read your post and I'm sure you are quite frustrated. My suggestion is to go to Cesar Millan's website. He is known as the Dog Whisperer and has a ton of good ideas on dog training. I'm not sure if you can e-mail him directly, but the site is extremely helpful anyway. He also has a book out that deals with problem behavior as well. Has your vet done a neurological evaluation? I'm not a vet, but I am in the medical field and his behavior sounds like it could be neurological in origin.

I wish you the best.

pmix

Cato, I just joined this group and immediately noticed your post, since I have a male rescued greyhound that exhibits the same behavior. He is 10 now and I have had him since he was 3. I  have two female greys and they never do this.  I was told he was having seizures, but I didn't want him on medication since it only happened occasionally.  You have gotten some excellent adivce, some of which I have tried, but for the most part I just have to wait it out. I also volunteer at a therapeutic horseback riding stables that offers programs for adults and children with learning disabilities.  This fixation on objects happens frequently with people with autism.  If you are interested you might want to take a look at some of the information written by Temple Grandin.  She is autistic and also  has a Ph.D. in animal science.  Her unique observation of animal behavior comes from experiencing the world from a perspective we are not designed for.

 Greys

Temple Grandin's books are amazingly accessible for readers.  I find some of her opinions a little black vs white (I tend to see things in shades of grey), but her insight, compassion and unique way of seeing things make her books well worth reading.  I'd suggest starting with Animals in Translation. 

Greys - have you tried taking your boy to a holistic vet?

Are you sure this dog isn't deaf???   I have had two deaf Bostons and after realizing what I was dealing with,   it was easy to train them with lights and hand signals,  now you'd never know they were impaired !!!

It sounds to me like there has been a brain injury during the accident.  It may even be a borerline eplepsy.  I would suggest, before punishing him any further, that you have a brain scan done on him.  I know that would be expensive and not knowing where you are located, I don't know if there are facilities in your area that can do it.

Hi, I think the true answer for your situation lies within your question.

 

ATTENTION !!!  Your dog simply needs time in within your home on a leash and learning limits and boundaries for ten minutes twice a day.  These moments are filled with ATTENTION Exercises.

Simply tell your dog what to do, for example go lay down, as the door bell rings and do NOT give in, follow through by physically placing your dog without repeating verbal command.  

Note, this exercise is without telling your dog STAY.  The whole idea of this exercise is to get the dog to demonstrate "down", as down ONLY, which will then equal ATTENTION.  

Once you have the dog in down position, whether it took you 10 times to get the dog into a down (using a leash),  the dog will watch you for your next command.  Release the dog with a "Free" command and then praise your dog.

Stay is only used if you are leaving the room(out of sight). 

All dogs can and do learn from a leader, which is YOU !  The leader must demonstrate without emotions, which would be anticipation of the behavior you have experienced before.  Dogs really live in the moment, not the past.  This is a human condition and anticipation confuses the dog !

 If you do lead with anticipation your dog will follow with hesitation.  If you state to your dog whether in verbal command or hand signals what you want without hesitation, your dog will more likely comply. 

 Patience is key here, because attention exercises take time and thus set a strong foundation for your dog to gain trust.

Trust will build a stronger dog.  Sounds like a good dog already, just needs reinforcement after each command.  If the dog does not perform follow through using a leash to give a clear message without repeating the command over and over.  The command repeats will only demonstrate to the dog, as noise.  For example Sit, Sit, Sit or Down, Down, Down all create noise and thus confusion for your dog.

After a few weeks of practicing attention exercises within the home you should notice a difference in the walk.

Also, halters create a dog in control.  The halters put pressure on the front of a dogs shoulders and cause him to pull and thus have control over stopping and starting.

Check your dogs collar is it really tight enough ?  It should be right up under the chin without touching the throat.  This is usually why dogs pull their owners and then they try halters thinking they gain more control, which is not the case.

Try a flt collar and a flat nylon leash and adjust the collar so that only two fingers can fit through.  If this doesn't work try a gentle leader.

If you try a Gentle Leader (head halter) you should only put it on for a few minutes and then take it off.  Each day gradually put it back on for additional minutes and follow the DVD instructions before attempting to walk your dog with this Gentle Leader, so that you are using it correctly.

I have witnessed dogs out of control and once the Gentle Leader was implemented into their walks, that the dogs responded with less dominance(pulling and stopping). 

In some cases Gentle Leaders are not a lifetime deal.  They can gradually come off once the dog has demonstrated that he is well-behaved.

Good Luck. 

 

 

 

 

 

yes , I too had to read your post several times .I agree you are working with a dog who is out off 2 stubborn   aloof breeds .

My other concern is if he received in his accident a headinjury . Multi trauma . Maybe he is not always all there . Or he is having small seizures when he gets in that state . dont force , dont yell just encourage him . maybe he just is not a dog to walk

too much maybe going out top do his buisness is all he needs to be happy.except

 he might be limited.