As far as the term "humbly obedient", you've got a semantic problem there. You are reading a connotation into the term
humble that doesn't necessarily apply. Humilty simply means
thinking of others first. You can be humble and even operate in a leadership function - two Biblical examples are Moses and Christ.
My working training is quite correction-based. My goal is to instill an attitude where the dog isn't afraid to work independently, but also is mentally "with me" at all times, so that if I offer input, I don't have to fight to gain control.
Yesterday I worked on a dog to get him to stop when asked rather than when it felt good to him, to stop. To do this I set it up so it was fairly easy to stop then was very positive about asking for it, then I worked up to stopping him when it was more and more difficult. If he failed, I'd back up a step, but I'd remain positive about my corrections - he always knew when he'd screwed up.
The result was that this dog, who was always running scared because there was that tension between us about stopping, "got it" and realized it wouldn't kill him to stop when asked. I started out being pretty firm but at the end we were tuned into each other enough that I could correct him with a quiet "ah-ah" and he'd respond without even flicking an ear back at me.
And when we left the field, he
knew that he had done well. It was actually the sheep who told him that, because most of the time they were calm, he was in control, and I was staying out of his way and letting him handle the sheep. He was dancing and grinning and if he could talk, I know he'd say, "Didya see that mama? Didn't I do good?"
The trainers I respect most are very very traditional. But I've come to realize that traditional doesn't mean 100% correction-based. What a good trainer does is set it up so that the desired behavior is the one that is easiest to do, and correct everything else. To take the analogy of the person who is on the "NO" team, it would be as if the desired behavior was to touch the wall opposite the door in the classroom, but not only are you going to use "NO" to signal wrong choices, but you also moved all the desks and people in the room so that they blocked the path to all but the opposite wall. If you heard NO every time you moved anywhere but towards the wall, AND you were physically restricted from going anywhere but that way, you'd relax and go with the flow. The tone of the corrections is important, too - if you are in the mindset to respond to any input whatsoever, the correction can be very gentle.
I know whereof I speak. One of the most eye opening experiences I've ever had as a trainer was when my mentor put me in a pen with sheep, then directed me as if I were a dog just starting out. He directed me to pretend I only wanted to go straight at the sheep, then he'd do the rest. He used verbal corrections and standing in the space where he
didn't want me, and it was amazing how it felt and how quickly we "got together." It felt almost like there was a string pulling me where I
had to go, and all I had to think about was the sheep - he took care of the rest. Very relaxing and confidence boosting - and that's what I see in dogs that work with him. Not "shut down" or "refusing to offer behaviors" - quite the opposite.
However, I can also say that this type of training is really hard to get right. People see the correction part and think it's all about that, when that's just a teeny part. The important part is setting it up so that the desired behavior is a reward in itself - freedom comes when impulse control is exhibited.
And you accept any effort to obey as long as you see that the dog is trying - if the dog doesn't get it, but is showing that he's willing to try, it's your turn to "give" and make it easier to obey. A lot of people don't get that and just keep hammering at it, and that's where you get into trouble. The dog doesn't have to get it perfect right from the start - you set it up so that it's easy to go down the road to the behavior you want, just as you'd do with something like clicker training.
So if they are so similiar in goals and methods, why don't we just use clicker training for working stock? The problem is that clicker training requires a rather structured, controlled environment to communicate what you want, and when we work, you need a way to tell a dog that you don't want what he's giving you at that moment. Herding is about 5% mechanical behaviors, and 95% the dog and you, just acting as a silent team to do what needs to be done to control the sheep.
Sunday we were out sorting sheep with my husband's new dog, who was raised and trained by my mentor. Patrick was using lots of "come byes" and "way to mes" to get Gus where he wanted him to hold the flock still to catch sheep and push them through the gate. Suddenly I noticed that if I faced a particular sheep, Gus would start to move in on the sheep and it would head towards the gate itself. If I turned away from the one sheep, Gus would let off the pressure and go back to holding the whole flock. I never asked for this - I didn't even know he could do it. I asked his trainer later if he taught that and he said, "No, a good dog's got that in him already."
Now that's not the behavior of a dog that's afraid to stir a foot independently. A dog in a state of learned helplessness would be useless to us - but so is a dog that is throwing out random behaviors like mad, with no restraint. I'm in hot water if my dog if I've got a lot of rams bearing down on me and my dog reverts to a default behavior, and I have no way to control it. Dogs like this end up in pet homes, for good reasons - they are dangerous!
I just wanted to point out that correction-based training is not in itself what is described here. It doesn't have to be an either/or thing.