A Problem with the I Collar

Agility on the left side? My side or the dog side? The agility equipment is usually set up around the perimeter of the work area. It is therefore natural that the handler be in the inner part or the right side. Was I trained wrong?

If you look at an agility course, you will see times where the handler should make a front cross or back cross, and might end up on a different side of the dog for a time.  Presumably, once you are at that level, you do not need a leash, so the Illusion collar would be completely inappropriate, since you are not attached to the dog. 
http://www.dogpatch.org/Agility/courses/crs100499.html

ORIGINAL: Liesje
I'd like to give this collar a try on a few dogs I have in mind, but it looks like it requires a lot of adjustment to be fitted just right? That's the problem with using special collars at the shelter,

It sounds to me, that in your circumstance, the illusion collar would be overkill, and yes, a time waster. If you can simply put your slip lead high up on the dog's neck, behind the ears, and keep it up there, then you don't need the illusion collar anyway. Millan uses the handle end of a leash as a slip lead during his shows, for his brief interactions whith his "clients." In fact, he likes to point out that he uses 25 cent leads []

Good tip...keep in mind the "P" when applying it

It is quite easy to slip on the dog and adjust.  Unsnap the buckles to tighten or loosen.
 
VERY EXPENSIVE, compared to other training collars.  $40 plus shipping and you do have to wait about 3 weeks.

After seeing the collar a few more times, I think like most other pieces of equipment, it can be helpful. However I still think practicing and learning to use a simple nylon choke is the best way to go. IMO

One of the best ways I know to teach a dog to walk nicely by my side (master a walk) is to use a clicker, no leash and no collar.  Of course, you need to do this first in a safe area, but then, when you transfer the skill to outdoors, you need only a flat buckle or snap collar and a six foot leash.  By then, if you have done this correctly, your dog will be walking along nicely because he wants to (having been copiously rewarded for being in the right position, and ignored for being in the wrong position).  Anyone who would like to try it can find more info about how to do it on the clicker section.  I'll start a thread there, rather than hijack this one.

I think this was a very good thread and I think everyone got something out of it.  I certainly was open to consider the OP's issue with I-collar.  In my situation that I described there is a need for this training tool.  I see its effect on Marvin where he doesn't pull but every so slightly test his boundaries.  I don't care if he is learning , which I don't think he is because as soon as another collar is placed on him he reverts to pulling. 

Marvin is doing clicker training and I was taught to first use lure to get the dog to you.  As the dog approaches you step back a very steps and then treat.  Each time you walk back further and then at one point you pivot and walk forward, then c/t.  Keep extending the time for c/t. 

This works great for Essie, a new foster and brand new to any training.  She is still in survival mode and I really don't like taking advantage of her situation to suite my needs.  For Marvin, his attention span is short lived and easily distracted.  So once he has the treat, he is off doing something else. 

The point I am trying to make is that the "best ways" don't always work and other ways have got to be tried in order to accomplish the training.  What happens is that training community then blames the owner for the failure when in fact there are other "dog needs" in play here.

I don't use treats to get a dog to walk with me, the same as I don't pay or give children candy to walk nicely with me through the mall. That being said, if one wishes to use bribes to get a dog to behave that's their right. Also...no one technique works for every dog. I like to see someone take a 2 yr old American Bulldog who has some aggression issues, use a clicker to teach that to walk nicely along with other dogs. And lol...I'd like to know just how long it would take for that to work (which...mind you, I've never seen done). Oh I hear the tales, but where's the...proof.

We have four american Bulldogs (Taylor, Nzinga, Boss, & Lillie)here with us right now, and all are very food motivated.  They are here preping for their PSA1, and two are trained on flat collars (agitation collars) using "bribes".  In my experience American Bulldogs are very easy to train with food and/or virtually any other method.  We can set up a time sometime this week and you can watch a training session on our webcams. 

ORIGINAL: PACleader

We have four american Bulldogs (Taylor, Nzinga, Boss, & Lillie)here with us right now, and all are very food motivated.  They are here preping for their PSA1, and two are trained on flat collars (agitation collars) using "bribes".  In my experience American Bulldogs are very easy to train with food and/or virtually any other method.  We can set up a time sometime this week and you can watch a training session on our webcams. 

That would be great! So your going to (if you payed attention to my post) take a A-Bulldog you've never met or worked with, that has a high prey drive and use a clicker and treats to make him/her behave around other dogs. Right? I can't wait to see it.

ORIGINAL: PACleader

We have four american Bulldogs (Taylor, Nzinga, Boss, & Lillie)here with us right now, and all are very food motivated.  They are here preping for their PSA1, and two are trained on flat collars (agitation collars) using "bribes".  In my experience American Bulldogs are very easy to train with food and/or virtually any other method.  We can set up a time sometime this week and you can watch a training session on our webcams. 

Hey, Mic, I'm jealous - you have webcams....I would love to see you in a session!  I just realized I haven't a clue what you look like - who knows, you could shave your head like Ed...This way, I'll know you - the other guy will be in a bulldog suit LOL.
We have quite a few American Bulldogs in our classes (I can't help it - Dozer, you are my fave) and they have been very easy to train.  Most are very food motivated, and the ones that aren't have been motivated by other rewards.  I haven't found them to be a problem.  In fact, just the opposite.  The one I just mentioned as my fave just graduated from my advanced class and comes to play group all the time - a very social and well trained dog. His mom did a great job.

ORIGINAL: spiritdogs

Anyone who would like to try it can find more info about how to do it on the clicker section.  I'll start a thread there, rather than hijack this one.

 
Okay, I've been waiting there for hours and I'm running out of smokes and getting cranky! []

ORIGINAL: Angelique

ORIGINAL: spiritdogs

Anyone who would like to try it can find more info about how to do it on the clicker section.  I'll start a thread there, rather than hijack this one.

Okay, I've been waiting there for hours and I'm running out of smokes and getting cranky! []

 
  You did not like my thorough and detail description?

And yet I'm still waiting.

So your going to (if you payed attention to my post) take a A-Bulldog you've never met or worked with, that has a high prey drive and use a clicker and treats to make him/her behave around other dogs. Right? I can't wait to see it.

I absolutely can, have, and will....I have a new American Bulldog coming in on Tuesday evening around 6:30ish (eastern time).  He is handler/dog aggressive and we hope he has tons of drive.  If not we will be working to increase to the highest level we can acheive.  I assume leash and flat collar are not out of the question.....He has never worked with a clicker before (as far as I know) so it will probably take a few sessions...so feel free to tune in every Tuesday at 6:30pm for the next few weeks.