running out of aggr. excuses

ORIGINAL: Cane Corso

ORIGINAL: Russell Stover

He only needs the crate once a week and its in the laundry room. He gets sep. anx. he barks until he doesn't hear footsteps then he settles down and sleeps.

Well, you need to quit let him out of his crate everytime he cries. I think he is alot smarter than you are because he has learned that whinning will get him out of the crate. When he is in the crate, you have no choice but ignore his loud whinning and crying.When he quits whinning and crying, you should let him out of his crate. Actually you are encouraging his anxiety to whine everytime he is in crate.

No offense to awsomedog, but you're like awsomedog's evil(er) twin or something. Except you don't just have a beef with anyone who speaks out or against Cesar Milan's methods. Can we lighten up on the guy and anyone else who posts just wanting advice. Obviously they care about their dogs and/or realize that something isn't right that's why they are HERE asking for advice.
sheesh.
Russell Stover, I think others have given you some great advice. I'm sure you'll work it out with your dog since you're very willing to absorb the advice that actually pertains to your situation.

Russell Stover, I think others have given you some great advice. I'm sure you'll work it out with your dog since you're very willing to absorb the advice that actually pertains to your situation.

 
thank you! i appreciate someone who thinks i actually absorb this stuff and who doesn't dwell on past mistakes! i really love Russell i mean, come on look at the pic! he is a sweet dog, he just acts like a little brat sometimes. he is not an adult yet so i am trying to correct this before it becomes a permenant habit.
 
btw anyone who has dealt with setters and huskies know that they are very nippy and its hard to break them of that habit.
 
i am here for advice not bombardment on past mistakes.[&o]
 
But i DO want to thank every sincere user who has given me USEFUL advice. []

i really love Russell i mean, come on look at the pic! he is a sweet dog, he just acts like a little brat sometimes.

Grace, from your last post I just realized that Russell is the dog's name, not yours  [sm=rofl.gif]

Suggestions:
(1)  Have everyone in the house take turns feeding Russell, except those too young to understand that they should leave the dog alone while he eats.
(2)  I think someone already mentioned this, but feed Russell in his crate.
(3)  Put up baby gates in the house everywhere that Russell is allowed to go.  When Russell nips someone or jumps up on them, yelp and go through one of the gates.  Play stops suddenly.  Stand on the other side of the gate with your back to the dog for two minutes (get some timers and put them by the gates).  Don't look at Russell or talk to him during that time.  Everyone must be consistent which may be hard for the smaller kids in the house.
(4)  Please, please try clicker training again.  What documentation did you use to show you how to do clicker training?  There are some very basic mistakes that can make it look ineffective.  Here is some good stuff on clicker training:
[link>http://forum.dog.com/asp/m.asp?m=310452]http://forum.dog.com/asp/m.asp?m=310452[/link][/size]
(5)  Take a whole Saturday and work on Russell's barking after you leave.  This will require the whole family's help.  Warn the neighbors first and get them to listen for you.  You will be coming and going for much of the day.  Basically you want to make leaving very boring for the dog. 
 
Put Russell in his crate 10 minutes before you leave and ignore him for ten minutes after you get back.  At first walk out and walk right back in again.  The next time make it 10 seconds, then 20, then 40, then 60, then 2 minutes, etc.  The idea is to walk back in before he starts barking, so if he barks shorten the time for the next exercise.  Even if he doesn't bark, periodically shorten the time so he doesn't get the idea that you will always be leaving for a longer time.
 
Even if you don't go anywhere, be sure you make all the normal sounds of leaving - keys jingling, car doors closing, car starting, etc.  For the longer periods, leave him with a stuffed, frozen Kong.  You don't want to feed him too much, so put part of his day's food in the Kong.  Instead of "They're leaving for the day" you want Russell to think "Oh boy, I am going to get a delicious Kong".

Thank you for your suggestions. they are very helpful. and if you think that clicker training would be worth another try, i'll see what i can do. I would under different circumstances feed him in his crate, but our house has minimal space and his crate is quite large.

I have a baby gate that i put up to keep him in the kitchen/diningroom area, but he jumps over them. i am trying to find a taller gate that is still easy to open for traffic (i have a lot of little siblings).

you have great ideas!

I would under different circumstances feed him in his crate, but our house has minimal space and his crate is quite large.

Is there some reason that you feel you have to feed him in the kitchen, rather than taking his bowl to whereever his crate is?
 
Here are some gate ideas:
 
The Duragate Dog Gate (up to 40" tall with extensions) is one that would help with the gate jumping.  One site that carries it:
[link>http://www.petstreetmall.com/beds.aspx?id=4092&cat=491]http://www.petstreetmall.com/beds.aspx?id=4092&cat=491[/link][/size]
 
The Four Paws Metal Walk Thru Gate comes in up to 41" (note the store locator on the site below).
[link>http://www.fourpaws.com/products/metal-walk-thru-gate.htm]http://www.fourpaws.com/products/metal-walk-thru-gate.htm[/link][/size]
 
The [size=3]Easy Step High-Guard Pet Gate is 41" high and on sale right now:[/size]
[linkwww.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=12521&inm=1&N=2001+2032[/link]>http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=12521&inm=1&N=2001+2032]www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=12521&inm=1&N=2001+2032[/link]
 
The Gerry Extra Tall Wire Mesh Gate is 48" high, but it doesn't look like a walk-thru gate.
[linkroducts_id=1218]www.jbpet.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&roducts_id=1218[/link]>http://www.jbpet.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&roducts_id=1218]www.jbpet.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&roducts_id=1218[/link]
 
The Extra Tall 36 Inch General Cage Gate when hinge-mounted has a "swing away option that allows walk-thru convenience":
[linkhttp://www.dog.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=110207[/link]>http://www.dog.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=110207]http://www.dog.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=110207[/link]
 
Don't forget to look on eBay for gates.  Look for "dog gate" and "pet gate".

quote:I am somewhat offended that you think i am a novice.

Sorry you feel like a novice. Please understand that in this thread you are:

1. Calling normal underexercised and untrained puppy behavior aggression
2. Expecting us to understand that your dog needs to be rehomed
3. Talking about tackling your dog as a training technique
4. Stressing that it works, even though you've been doing it for months with very limited success

You have to understand that we are very boring people who are obsessed with dogs, so we read and comment on a variation on this exact thread at least once a week, if not more. These are all classic First Puppy mistakes (tackling excepted... that's a new one on me).

You sound like a teenager. Perhaps this is the first dog you have had full responsibility for? I grew up with lots of dogs, and thought I was an expert when I got my first dog that was all my responsibility. But you know, I had no idea how much my mom took care of... I was very much a novice, but I learned and so will you if that's your situation.

Don't despair, and don't rehome your dog--that's copping out. RS sounds like a really great dog with a lot to offer--he just needs to be trained. NILIF and a basic obedience class is what I would recommend, as others have. It won't cost $300. JMHO, shocking and tackling are not the best ways to create a good, trusting relationship between you and your dog.

Welcome to the forum, Russel Stover is a really great name for a dog.

I suggest you take a look at this thread.... this guy had a dog with every bratty behaviour in the book (jumping up, nipping, charging about, being hyper, ignoring commands etc. etc....)  He was around your dog's age, a working breed (but BIG and powerful and WILLFUL)..... there was some great advice posted and updates on the dog's progress too which is really encouraging.  Take a look:
 
[linkhttp://forum.dog.com/asp/tm.asp?m=268558&mpage=1&key=wits%2Cend]http://forum.dog.com/asp/tm.asp?m=268558&mpage=1&key=wits%2Cend[/link]
 
In our house, we have a rule that kids are not allowed to approach the dogs in their crate....
One: because it is their own space and they must feel that no one will encroach on it and that they are safe there. 
Two: because we want them to know they can go there to be away from kids or guests if they need to and not resort to other methods to get folks to leave them alone and
Three: because it denies them the option of Flight, so a kid pestering them in there makes them feel cornered and uncomfortable. 
 
I think you should apply a similar rule in your house with tethering (ie. No kids near the dog when he is tethered) because that too denies the dog the option of Flight. 
I don't think it was the proximity of you or the bed that cause the problem.... I suspect it was the fact that your sister was (in the dogs eyes) looming over him and he could not get away to a more comfortable position, so he just reacted.

I would sometimes correct my dog with a scruff. Not a harsh one where one sits on them. He would respond to it by downing and rolling himself. And it lasted until I let go. After a few times he might stop the unwanted behavior. The scruff was once in a while.
 
Most of our training has been lure/reward. Then, this year, I got into clicker training and have not regretted it since then. It's like night and day, for us. For what it's worth, we let him on the bed, we let him on the sofa. Some nights, it's me, Shadow, Jade, the cat, and my wife, all on the sofa watching t.v. With the clicker, I have strengthened recall (here), sit, down, and I have behavior-chained heel and have translated it somewhat to walking in public.
 
Shadow did bite me once, stress-fracturing a knuckle in my hand. And it was totally my fault. I never punished him for it. He was coming out of sedative and was drinking water. I was trying to get a bandage off of his left front paw, where I had quicked him during a nail trim. Confused, thirsty, and probably a little sore, he reacted, not knowing who or what it was messing with him, as I came up from behind, blind-siding him. But I don't consider that a bite history. I consider that as me being an idiot who learned a valuable lesson in animal husbandry.
 
Basically, reward what is you want, do not reward what you don't want and when behavior exhibits that you don't want, give an incompatible command. For example, the dog lunges or jumps, give the command to sit.
 
You'll get there.
 

Hey I just wanted to chime in--a bunch happened on this thread while I was writing my post. It sounds like you are doing great and getting a bunch of information and making good changes.

Way to go!

Just how old are you?
 
I think you should stop making excuses and get him to obedience training.  Also, don't smack or tackle him.  I don't think that will help much at all, in fact, it might make it worse.  Check out these links!  They may or may not help.
 
[linkhttp://www.puppypals.org/the.htm]http://www.puppypals.org/the.htm[/link]
 
[linkhttp://101-dog-training-tips.com/Puppy_Training/index.shtml]http://101-dog-training-tips.com/Puppy_Training/index.shtml[/link]
 
 

Just how old are you?

The OP still lives with her parents and this is probably not a question she should be answering - especially not on a public forum!!

With all due respect, the member that asked that is quite young herself. []

in reading your post about clicker training, it seems to me you have the same idea that i had when first researching clicker training.... the fact that your dog responds well to verbal commands actually makes it perfect for clicker training.  the click doesn't replace the command, it replaces the REWARD for obeying the verbal command.  eventually. 
 
you could try reading "the ower of positive dog training" by pat miller. (free at the library if cost is an issue)   it was a real eye opener for me.  i have an amstaff and a pit, two of the most hard headed breeds you'll ever meet, and clicker training is really their favorite thing to do, and it's exhausting for them, which could help with some of your energy issues.
 
congratulations on trying to work through this instead of giving up on your dog.  that, to me, is the mark of a really good person.

With all due respect, the member that asked that is quite young herself.

 
Then it sounds like they should email each other!  []  No phone numbers or addresses without parental permission, of course.  Can't be too careful these days!!  [sm=sad.gif]

ORIGINAL: janet_rose

Just how old are you?

The OP still lives with her parents and this is probably not a question she should be answering - especially not on a public forum!!

Sorry, just curious since she said she had a 10 year old sister and all.  I like to know how old they are since some younger people may not be capable of certain things.  Besides, I'm probably the youngest member on the forum (turning 13 in June).