running out of aggr. excuses

It sounds like your dog has a very stubborn streak (I feel your pain - husky's can be the most stubborn dogs on the planet!). I'm sure he does get the "no" but he just doesn't want to listen. My husky would rebel against my nos when she was a pup. I'd say NO very sternly, she's then race around the room, doing that little husky growl then she'd go back to what she was doing when I told her no. It was her way of testing me. I imagine this is what your dog is doing to you - testing you. It's so important to be consistant and confident during this phase.
 
It sounds like the dog sees himself either above you or just below you in the family pack. The nothing in life is free will go a long way to help with that. Your sister HAS to do this too. Make your sister feed him, using sit/stays then release to eat. Have your sister get in the dogs space (not looking at him but just inching there so the dog has to get up and move be careful with this though) and so on.
 
In one of your posts you mentioned that no amount of verbal corrections will get the dog to quiet down in the crate. That's a mistake in itself. Never correct the dog in it's crate. Any attention, even negative attention, reinforces the barking, whining, etc. He's testing your patience and knows that eventually you'll get annoyed enough to let him out. (my husky did this too). If you really want to get him used to his crate, you feed ALL of his meals as well as treats while he's in the crate. For feeding time, say "go to your crate", make him go in there and set his food bowl inside. He'll probably rebel for a while but believe me, this works. Be consistant and feed him every single time inside. If you give him rawhides, only give them in his crate. When he's done chewing, take the rawhide and put it away. This reinforces that good things come in the crate and that you control resources.
 
Also, if he's whining and carrying on - get some ear plugs, turn on the TV or move him to another room. But never ever talk to him or even look at him while he's fussing in the crate. If when he does settle down, do a "good dog" and treat him. If you do this in short spurts in the beginning, increasing the time by only minutes at a time, eventually you can leave him all day.
 
Good luck!

and i didn't clarify about the biting. the dog was awake. on the floor beside my bed. my siblings always come in and say hi in the morning. its just odd. maybe he wasn't feeling well. i dont know, but thanks for the tips!

A 9-month old dog is no longer a little puppy - he is a teenager.  That means a new set of behaviors.  He was probably guarding you.

I am somewhat offended that you think i am a novice.

I am sure that this came from the "tackling and sitting" comment.  Most of us on this forum can't imagine an experienced trainer doing that. 

this behavior isn't all the time, but he likes to pick on my little brother because he is always jealous. The little kids are always getting nipped.

He is nipping because that is the way that puppies play with other puppies (the little kids).  When he nips, the result should be high-pitched, hurt-puppy, yelping.  After that completely ignore the pup for 1-2 minutes.  Don't even look at the pup.

I've had him since he was 6 weeks old (getting him early might have contributed).

Definitely!!!  The dam and littermates teach a pup bite inhibition primarily between 5-8 weeks.  Your pup missed out on some very basic training.

[size=3]Here is a post on NILIF and on being the leader of the pack:
[link>http://forum.dog.com/asp/tm.asp?m=291245&mpage=1&key=񈼴]http://forum.dog.com/asp/tm.asp?m=291245&mpage=1&key=񈼴[/link][/size]
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i finally can relate to someone who experienced this! He DOES test me like that, he barks whenever a 'no!' flies in his direction. If you turn your back on him, ignore him etc. he circles and nips our sleeves.

He only needs the crate once a week and its in the laundry room. He gets sep. anx. he barks until he doesn't hear footsteps then he settles down and sleeps. He is slowly getting better with NILIF. i made him sleep on the floor last night but when i woke up he was laying next to me. i made him get down. but i think i'll tie him so he can't jump up. We all have to get used to it, there are lots of people in our family and he gets a lot of indirect attention.So its hard to tell if everyone is using the technique.

He definitely thinks he is in the top 2 of the family. But i KNOW he is under me, just doesn't like it. thanks for your encouragement

ORIGINAL: janet_rose

I am somewhat offended that you think i am a novice.

I am sure that this came from the "tackling and sitting" comment.  Most of us on this forum can't imagine an experienced trainer doing that. 

I know it sounds rough, and i'm not making excuses, but it involves getting him on his back, in a submissive state. i tell him to stay, and until he stops trying to escape, i 'sit' on him. not literally, just so he can't get up. obviously i wouldn't hurt my dog. I don't use this unless he doesn't respond to other corrections. Police use this technique for stubborn K9s.

ORIGINAL: janet_rose
He is nipping because that is the way that puppies play with other puppies (the little kids).  When he nips, the result should be high-pitched, hurt-puppy, yelping.  After that completely ignore the pup for 1-2 minutes.  Don't even look at the pup.

We tried that... i say this way too much... But when you make any cry or yelp, he thinks its funny and does it again, it makes him feel dominent. i tell you, i've never seen anything like it.

ORIGINAL: janet_rose

Definitely!!!  The dam and littermates teach a pup bite inhibition primarily between 5-8 weeks.  Your pup missed out on some very basic training.

I know, and i almost 'returned' him for another week. But we thought we could try. we did the muzzle shake, the scruff grab, the watergun ( i hate that, it just annoys them) all ineffective. He didn't nip really until AFTER he was neutered. i think that is more the culprit. but i researched neutering and it was never an effect. in fact, they said the opposite.

Ok, you've got your hands full here. 
 
My own personal belief is that you need to change your thought process from "he is being dominant" to "he is acting like an untrained, misbehaving puppy."
 
Secondly:  Elminate the word "NO" from your vocabulary when you deal with this pup.  Unless "no" is accompanied by another modifier...ex: "no bite" or "no bark."  Instead use another sound (I use uh-uh) and then redirect and reward when the dog redirects.  Example:
 
Dog nips hand.
"Uh-uh, no bite"
Pause.
"Play with this"
Hand dog toy.
"Good boy!"
 
 
Your pup isn't testing out his oats and wanting to dominate, he is acting like a brat because of several factors. 
 
He also sees all the humans that he is nipping as littermates, not as humans.  If you personally have ever "played rough" or wrestled with your dog, or anyone else has-stop doing it now.  Don't do it.  This teaches a dog that it is OK to put teeth on skin.  It also reinforces the littermate idea. 
 
Does he have any doggie friends that he plays with?  How do their interactions go?  Does he "get it" when the other dog says "playtime is over" or does he keep going?  If he stops, then you need to carefully observe the interaction and see how the other dog ends it.  In other words, learn the alphabet that your dog uses.
 
In all honesty I think you've got a rambunctious pup that was taken away from his litter 2 or 4 weeks too early, probably undersocialized with other pups, and never really learned the house rules.

ORIGINAL: Russell Stover

i think i worded it wrong, it sounds like i beat him... i don't. the book specialized in stubborn bird dog training. The man who wrote it gave several methods and was highly recommended by my breeder. The 'tackle' method WORKS, he just 'forgets'. He sleeps NEXT to my bed. he can't sleep in a crate or he barks incessently for hours (regardless of (verbal) discipline and MONTHS of trying) he can not be left alone or he eats everything. Believe me, i've tried everything BUT a trainer. but his problems wouldn't be seen during training because they only arise at home when he has nothing better to do.

The tackle method does NOT work - he simply upped the ante on someone he didn't respect, and bit her...  If I were you, I'd take Glenda's advice.
Part of your problem is that he was taken from his litter wayyyyy too soon.   No bite inhibition.  So, he needs some positive training that will tell him that it's inappropriate to put his teeth on human skin.  But, if you are aggressive with this dog (tackling, etc.) chances are he will continue to be aggressive to defend himself or to get his way.
www.k9aggression.com is a good place to start learning about aggression in dogs.

ORIGINAL: Russell Stover

He only needs the crate once a week and its in the laundry room. He gets sep. anx. he barks until he doesn't hear footsteps then he settles down and sleeps.

 
  Well, you need to quit let him out of his crate everytime he cries. I think he is alot smarter than you are because he has learned that whinning will get him out of the crate. When he is in the crate, you have no choice but ignore his loud whinning and crying.When he quits whinning and crying,  you should let him out of his crate. Actually you are encouraging his anxiety to whine everytime he is in crate.

He gets sep. anx. he barks until he doesn't hear footsteps then he settles down and sleeps.

That is not SA.  It is a temper tantrum.  SA dogs do not settle down and sleep.
 

I know it sounds rough, and i'm not making excuses, but it involves getting him on his back, in a submissive state.  ...  Police use this technique for stubborn K9s.

This is called an alpha role.  It is based on throughly debunked behavior theory.  Dogs role over on their backs to say "You are the boss".  If a dog forces a second dog on its back, that is a very serious threat.  Intimidation and force in training a dog can backfire badly - just like it can with children.
 

He didn't nip really until AFTER he was neutered. i think that is more the culprit. but i researched neutering and it was never an effect. in fact, they said the opposite.  

Neutering does not cause nipping.   You are just seeing changes in play that come with a pup growing up.
 
Good books I suggest you to try to find at the library:
 
Rugaas, Turid[font=verdana][size=3], On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals, 2nd edition, 12/2005
[linkhttp://tinyurl.com/2tk7dt]http://tinyurl.com/2tk7dt[/link]
 
Anderson, Teoti[font=verdana][size=3], Your Outta Control Puppy, 7/2003
[linkhttp://tinyurl.com/3k7gg]http://tinyurl.com/3k7gg[/link]
 
Donaldson, Jean, The Culture Clash, 1/1997[font="times new roman"][size=2][/font]
[linkhttp://tinyurl.com/642uk]http://tinyurl.com/642uk[/link]
 
Garrett, Susan, Ruff Love: A Relationship Building Program for You and Your Dog, 2002
[linkhttp://www.dogwise.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=DTA228]http://www.dogwise.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=DTA228[/link]
 
[font=verdana][size=3]Miller, Pat[font=verdana][size=3], The Power of Positive Dog Training, 8/2001
[linkhttp://tinyurl.com/68ds7]http://tinyurl.com/68ds7[/link][/size][/font][/size][/font][/size][/size][/font][/size][/font]

I don't LET him out of the crate. he knows he will be in there for at least an hour when he goes in. My neighbors tell me he barks for at least the first TWENTY minutes when we leave the house. He is gradually getting better.

We are totally revamping our training methods, so we can drop the old stuff that i have already learned.
1 submissive tackle doesn't work- it causes negetive effects
2 sleeping on/near the bed. - it promotes protectiveness, and puts him in a side by side alpha status w/ me.
3 removed too early from litter - i understand that, i can't drop him off again, so i need to carry on and fix it.
4 jumping/tagging - he is a primadonna and wants constant attention, i ignore him until he 'pays' me first with obedience
5 exercise - he was on a basic exercise program and is now depleting energy whenever i have the opportunity to run him.
6 socialization - he went to doggy day care and did fine. he has supervised playdates running with two irish setters and always comes with me to the pet store and meets other dogs w/o problems.
7 methods - i tried clicker training, choke chains, prong training, remote field training, ignoring when bad, and more... none of which work effectively.

i use no minimally without a relating word like 'no jump/bite'

so basically, if you have tips on what you did with your dog or other methods not listed i'd be eternally grateful.

thanks for the help so far. i really appreciate it.