My boy could pull a train

You can try an Easy Walk Harness, or a Sporn no pull harness, but usually the Gentle Leader (I like this better than the Halti) or Halti works better if it is used properly (the dog should be right by your side, not out at the end of the leash).  Take him to class in the meantime and learn how to teach him a polite walk.  Or, if you can't go to class, go here: [linkhttp://www.clickerlessons.com.%C2%A0]www.clickerlessons.com. [/link] The instructions are free.
If the appearance of the prong bothers you, you can cover it with a collar cover and it will still be functional.  I prefer not to use them, but would rather see you use that than a choke chain, which I never use, if you must go to something else. 
What breed of dog do you have and how old is he?  Do you have a fenced yard?  You could tire him with a game of fetch before the walk to make it easier to manage him.

I second the obedience training.  He needs training you could change from halter to collar to whatever and still he will probably do it till he learns correctly.

I think a good trainer could definitely help you, but it seems that isn't an option for you right now.  A prong collar, as Anne suggested, could be effective too, but you need someone to show you how to use one properly.  Also, you seem to object to the use of a prong collar.  It seems to me that your options are limited by finances and personal prejudice.  Good luck.

If he's pulling and lunging in a halti, you need to stop using it. He could seriously injure his neck. The first step in training a dog to not pull is to decide that not pulling is more important than walking a certain distance in a certain amount of time. Basically the concept is the dog is never allowed to move forward on the walk if he is pulling against the leash. So I would first tire the dog out by some other means, and then set out to walk ten feet on a loose leash. It may take you an hour to cover those ten feet if your dog is a confirmed puller. If leash goes taut, you don't move. You only move if leash is slack. Once you can do ten feet, try twenty feet. And so on.

ORIGINAL: mudpuppy

Basically the concept is the dog is never allowed to move forward on the walk if he is pulling against the leash.

 
I agree, is not the leash as much(a different one might help a little bit) but the way you walk the dog itself, the concept mudppypy is talking about starts from inside the house, you dont put the leash on if he is hyper, your dont open the door if he is hyper, you dont go out thru the door if he is hyper, some people dont agree but i feel that if you go out the door first that tells the dog that you will control the walk and not him (you wont loose anything by going out first and it might be right)
 
Dont think that by only standing still he is calm enough to start every step, some times they can be seated but still fixated and anxious to go out, he has to be c-a-l-m

Sometimes, however, if the dog is heavy enough, and the handler light enough, the "be a tree" routine is very hard to do without a piece of equipment that gives the person the advantage of leverage.  

Surprisingly, I've found that I like the no pull harness. The Sporn was difficult for me to put on, but the Easy Walk works for us.  Wolfgang is a freight train and impulsive too. I've gotten to the point where I can handle him with a regular collar one on one but it requires my full attention. If I'm walking him with the other two, particularly before daylight (think feral kitties), the harness is a big help.

ORIGINAL: probe1957

I think a good trainer could definitely help you, but it seems that isn't an option for you right now.  A prong collar, as Anne suggested, could be effective too, but you need someone to show you how to use one properly.  Also, you seem to object to the use of a prong collar.  It seems to me that your options are limited by finances and personal prejudice.  Good luck.

Actually, it's not my prejudice, but my boyfriends. At this point I would do anything. Yes my finances are limiting me right now, but they won't forever, it's just that christmas time bother, lol.

I cannot wait until I get into obedience with him, it's just frustrating for me that he pulls so darn hard.

I will look into both of those harnesses, I have been speaking with a shop owner, and he has said if I find something that I would like, he will order it in for me.[]

I like the ideas you have all given me.

My first girl, Trinity was much easier to train, and I had nothing else to do when my daughter was in school. Now life has become, well, bigger, so I don't have as many hours as I used to.
I have a clicker, but he doesn't seem to care about anything other then the treat, and doesn't listen to anything, he only concentrates on my pocket, hand, or where ever I have the treats.
I am going to look for a trainer that has experience with clicker training, I like it, and Trinity seems to be catching on rather quickly. Apparently he has gone to obedience training before, and has had some clicker training, too. At least that is according to his previous caretaker.

Oh, as for breed, I believe he is Husky/ Beagle. He is so puppy like, at a year old and 50lbs, and has the cutest bark. I prefer to call it a "Woo" because he "woo, woo, woo's"[]

The walking is the only thing I am having troubles with. he has caught onto stay, and come, like a charm, in the short amount of time I have had him ( he didn't when I first got him, about a month ago) He also sits and shakes a paw, which is so cute, he sits so proud.[]

LOL, spirit, being a tree is what pulled my back out, he really wanted to see that dog. (he is very socail, to a fault) he was raised at SPCA, basically, because his previous caretaker took him in when he came in there with Parvo. After some time, she decided to find him a home, but it was hard for her, because she loved him dearly. I am so happy he is in our lives. Trinity has become more active, and puppy like, and for me, his love is priceless. He even crawls up on the bed, after my boyfriend goes to work, to cuddle. Chase only takes up a small corner of the bed (how polite) Trinity would push me right off.

Anyways here I am babbling about them... But everyone else thinks I am nuts. I buy foods they haven't even heard of, and say, "but Ol' Roy has 100% complete nutrition, it's the same thing".[:@]

They tell me I am wrong to give "huiman food" to my  dogs, that it's bad for them, fattening or something.... Why do they eat it then? I think my dogs can run 7x faster tehn I can, and definately use more energy, to burn that fat. Beside cheese puffs they share with their dog is bad, not the leftover chicken, that we won't eat.

ORIGINAL: trinity

Why do they eat it then? I think my dogs can run 7x faster tehn I can, and definately use more energy, to burn that fat. Beside cheese puffs they share with their dog is bad, not the leftover chicken, that we won't eat.

Chocolate is the worst thing for a dog, i think cheese is bad too, their stomachs are not human stomachs and eating some "human food" can be dangerous

Tell that to the stupid people that prefer to feed "goodies" to their dogs, rather then something healthy off their plates[sm=crazy.gif]

i didn't know cheese is bad for all dogs, i thought it was only bad for the lactose intolerant ones... at least that is what I have read in this forum...

i knew about chocolate, and onions, too.

Where does anyone get that cheese is bad for dogs?  Cheese is a normal add-on to alot of my dogs meals.  I give it in moderation but cheese isn't "bad" for them.

Dogs do tend to be lactose intolerant, but heck, I'm lactose intolerant too and I eat cheese all the time. If I eat too much I get a tummy ache and perhaps some more frequent trips to the bathroom. Same with dogs. If they eat too much it can cause some, er, explosive issues, but in moderation it's just fine. Unless the dog is actually allergic to dairy which is another issue entirely.

I am not lactose intolerant, but if I eat to much, the bathroom sees me frequnetly, too. I think cheese naturally has that effect, lol.

Houndlove, One of my life motto's that I say frequently is "Everything in Moderation!"

Eat to much of anything, and stuff happens.

I have a husky mix too, and pulling is so ingrained that it's hard to combat.  We still struggle with it, but he has improved a whole lot. 
 
As for equipment, try the easy-walk if the halti/GL isn't working for you. 
 
Tiring the dog out before walks is a bit counter-intuitive (isn't that what the walk is FOR?) but it will help you a lot.  If he fetches, try doing that outdoors for 15-20 minutes and then walk -- he'll be calmer and less excited, so less apt to pull.
 
Yummy treats for non-pulling are key -- make it worth his while and let him know when you like how he is behaving. 
 
You might try penalty yards -- don't just be a tree, if he pulls, actually start going backwards.  The message is, pulling = you go further away, not closer.  Also, try changing directions a lot and zigzagging around -- moving in an unpredictable pattern forces the dog to pay attention to you since he doesn't know where you are going.
 
Consistency is key.  If you let him pull sometimes (you're in a hurry, he really needs a walk, you don't feel like training him today), then he will remember that and always, always, always try to get away with it.  So you have to take a firm stand against it.  It is so tempting to just let it slide sometimes, but it's a bad idea in the long run.  You may not get 50 yards out of your driveway, and you may need another way to exercise him for a while while you lay down ground rules.  But it will help once he gets the message that he will never be allowed to pull.