Need advice on training not to jump

As far as the jumping with food - I always make my dogs lie down and stay until I release them with a "ok" to eat. The rescue I got this summer didn't know "down" but picked it up VERY quickly this way. Now, she hits the ground so fast at meal times that I'm afraid she might hurt her elbows!

She still jumps up on us a bit when we get home, but it has gotten a lot better since I started TOTALLY ignaring her when I get home. I don't talk to her, look at her or touch her until she has settled down and has all four feet on the floor. It took her a bit at first, but now she settles down quickly because she knows there is no attention whatsoever until she does.

If he knows how to "sit" on command that would help a lot, if he does not know yet i would get closer to him and say "no", he for sure will need to step back to take a better jump, you just have to move foward and repeat, he needs to learn he is not gonna get food until he is calm

Forget the "no", you will accomplish little.  It doesn't tell the dog what you want him to do instead of jumping up.  One thing you can try is to have the dog drag his leash around - you can step on it, about a foot from the buckle, so that he "self corrects" every time he jumps.  Then, you can tell him "sit" and reward the sit.  Behavior that is rewarded (even occasionally) continues, and behavior that is completely ignored extinguishes, or goes away.  Or, you could try clicker training a polite greeting.
BTW, if anyone gives the puppy attention for jumping up, even if it's negative attention, you will almost certainly have a continuing problem with this.  Kneeing, or pushing the dog away, will make some dogs think you are aggressing or even inviting them to play.  Even making eye contact with a jumping dog can keep it happening.  Dogs jump because they are trying to reach your face (to provide you with a proper canine greeting, which is to sniff the side of your face).  They simply need to be taught that humans prefer to be greeted from a sitting position. 

They simply need to be taught that humans prefer to be greeted from a sitting position.

 
I agree... I think it can be really difficult to train a dog not to jump by just ignoring, because there are always going to be times when you absent-mindedly reinforce him for jumping, or someone else does. I think it's easier to go the "incompatible behavior" route for this, because you're giving him more options (sit or down instead of jump or nothing), and IMO you can still be a little inconsistent and have it work - because the dog is more likely to pick the behavior that always gets good results (sitting) rather than the behavior that sometimes gets good results (jumping).

Forget the "no", you will accomplish little.  It doesn't tell the dog what you want him to do instead of jumping up.  One thing you can try is to have the dog drag his leash around - you can step on it, about a foot from the buckle, so that he "self corrects" every time he jumps.  Then, you can tell him "sit" and reward the sit.

It may depend on the dog or the situation, too. Lucy got even MORE excited and jumped more if I asked her to sit or down when she was already into full "happy dance" mode. Any sort of reaction from me, whether voice or eye contact, seemed to feed the frenzy. For her, I got the best result when totally ignoring her until she was standing quietly or sitting. Then she was rewarded with hugs and kisses and a trip around the block.

I really like the leash idea - I think I may make sure her leash is on her this Christmas when my house will be overrun! She's mellowed out a lot, but may need some reminders during a new situation like large groups or people.

Yep, I was trying to avoid just "no" because from reading here on the site and "The Other End of the Leash", I knew it wasn't enough to tell him what I do want.  He's good with the sit command except at dinner time - then it's every man for himself.  I'll try the leash thing.  Bear learned quickly not to jump on me when I let him out of the crate or my son comes in the house when he's loose (and I'm home).  It's only been 10 days, I'll keep trying.
 
Thanks so much!

I've found NILIF to really help this problem, but it does take a little time for the dog to "get it". What you wind up with in the end, though, is a dog who automatically when it wants something you have "downs" without you even asking. It can actually get pretty comical when the dog is downing and keeps trying to get more and more "down" the more they want what you have. Conrad will do this and look at me like, "Come on lady, how much more down do I have to get here? Should I just merge with the molecules of the floor? Cuz I can do that if it'll get me that piece of bread you have."
 
It took a couple months for Marlowe to move from sitting when he wanted something (that we convinced him to do fairly quickly) to downing, but it did happen. Now when I get the food out, I just look at them and say "all dogs down" and they both hit the ground and drill holes in me with their eyes. I can put the food right in front of them and they won't touch it until I tell them "okay". It's just all about practice and consistency and not giving in because they are cute. Which, I know, is very hard! But it pays off.

The hole thing behind the "no" is not to "comunicate" the dog what you want, no, is to help you to project the right attitude so the dog can sense he is doing something you dont agree with, you can do it without even talking but for some people to project the right  attitude is hard if is not followed by a vocal noise, if you dont want to say anything thats fine but the dog has to sense you are serious about the fact that you dont like him to jump, the problem with the leash is that you will have to put it on every time is time for food and you may only avoid the jumping when he knows he has the leash on, if he does not then he may know he will be able to jump

ORIGINAL: spiritdogs

One thing you can try is to have the dog drag his leash around - you can step on it, about a foot from the buckle, so that he "self corrects" every time he jumps. 

Actually stepping on the leash while jumping would be a "leash popping", the power the dog has while jumping is much more than the one made by a human and i thought some people around here were against that kind of  "correction", very interesting

If my dog tries to jump for a treat, food, or a toy, I tell her no and ut what she wants out of her reach and walk away.  I'll return a moment later, and have her do sit, down, and/or give paw, and then give her what she wants.  Also, for toys and treats I also make her "take it nice", since she has a habit of grabbing fingers along with the toy or treat.  She's not 100% perfect yet, but by enforcing this everytime we've definitely made a lot of progress, especially in regards to her dinner   Still haven't gotten her to stop jumping on our guests though...

Actually stepping on the leash while jumping would be a "leash popping", the power the dog has while jumping is much more than the one made by a human and i thought some people around here were against that kind of "correction", very interesting

It's not leash popping. A leash pop is a correction that a human delivers a moment after the dog performs a behavior. Stepping on the leash creates a situation where the environment (in the form of the leash) itself prevents the dog from performing a behavior. It's not a correction. It's more akin to placing boxes or a scat mat on the couch to prevent a dog from getting on the furniture.

ORIGINAL: jones

It's not leash popping. A leash pop is a correction that a human delivers a moment after the dog performs a behavior. Stepping on the leash creates a situation where the environment (in the form of the leash) itself prevents the dog from performing a behavior. It's not a correction. It's more akin to placing boxes or a scat mat on the couch to prevent a dog from getting on the furniture.

 
Hahaha fancy words to describe exactly the same, both have to be perform by a human and the only difference is that one of them is caused by the dog himself and the other by the human

Ok lets forget about any names, the feeling the dog has in his neck at the moment of jumping and the feeling that he has when the human does it is the same, yes or no?????

I think the difference between that and a leash pop may be self-correct vs. other-correct. Of course you and I know that the source of the restraint is the human's foot, but does the dog know? I don't know for sure but I do know that when I see people leash-popping their dogs at the park (and when I used to do it myself) the dog immediately looks up at the handler, not at the leash, as the source of the correction. Booby-trapping the garbage, while we humans all understand has it's source at the owner, it fools the dog into thinking the garbage is providing the correction, not the human.
 
The training center where I took Marlowe for his CGC class taught a down-stay "puppy management" position that included stepping on the leash. I never took their puppy class, so we never did that and I didn't see much point. Either the dog has learned to down-stay or it hasn't and it still needs to be taught. Stepping on the leash seemed like a bandaid and in talking to a local behaviorist and trainer about that center she said that was the one thing they did there that she didn't really like.
 
But I do think it belongs in a different category from a leash pop.

What you wind up with in the end, though, is a dog who automatically when it wants something you have "downs" without you even asking. It can actually get pretty comical when the dog is downing and keeps trying to get more and more "down" the more they want what you have. Conrad will do this and look at me like, "Come on lady, how much more down do I have to get here? Should I just merge with the molecules of the floor? Cuz I can do that if it'll get me that piece of bread you have."

 
houndlove, I laughed pretty hard at this.  Right now Bear's favorite is the "sit" - see, I'm sitting all by myself, aren't I a good boy?  I can totally see him melding with the floor!
 
Last night and this morning's meals went better, only a partial jump last night and none this a.m.  He did not, however, wait for the release to get to the food.  I will check out more NILIF info.
 
 

Getting the dog to wait for the release has to start from the beginning or they just learn that they don't have to wait to get what they want. It just takes some quick reflexes and setting the dog up for success. When Bear is sitting, put the food bowl down, but put it down on the other side of you and not right under his nose. If he gets up the instant the dish hits the floor, just pick the dish right back up again. Watch him like a hawk for that first muscle movement before he launches himself at the dish!  But help him do this by not making the time he has to wait too long at first. Just a second of motionlessness at first, and he gets the release word (we use "okay" but you can use whatever you want) and you move out of the way and gesture like mad at the food dish so it's totally clear that before, it was not okay to eat, but now it is.  You can after a while slowly up the time he has to wait in between when you put the food down and when he gets to eat.
 
When we introduced our new dog to this drill, we picked that food bowl up about a zillion times the first day but I really wanted to make good and sure that he never had the experience of eating before released. He is a total chowhound and eats like a vaccuum cleaner, so once he moves towards his dish, that food is gone in about 1.5 nanoseconds, so I had to move quick to pick that dish up the second he twitched. He was super confused for about 5 minutes but after that just became an ace at it.