Need advice on training not to jump

Hahaha fancy words to describe exactly the same, both have to be perform by a human and the only difference is that one of them is caused by the dog himself and the other by the human

Ok lets forget about any names, the feeling the dog has in his neck at the moment of jumping and the feeling that he has when the human does it is the same, yes or no?????

It's not a semantic difference. In one case the "feeling" comes after the behavior, in another case it comes before or during, preventing the dog from carrying out the behavior. These are qualitatively different actions in terms of operant conditioning. Split second differences in timing are not a negligable factor in animal training, on the contrary they're all important.

Everytime he jumps say DOWN and push him down. When he stays down for 10 seconds, give him a treat. Keep doing this until he gets the idea.

ORIGINAL: espencer

The hole thing behind the "no" is not to "comunicate" the dog what you want, no, is to help you to project the right attitude so the dog can sense he is doing something you dont agree with, you can do it without even talking but for some people to project the right  attitude is hard if is not followed by a vocal noise, if you dont want to say anything thats fine but the dog has to sense you are serious about the fact that you dont like him to jump, the problem with the leash is that you will have to put it on every time is time for food and you may only avoid the jumping when he knows he has the leash on, if he does not then he may know he will be able to jump

ORIGINAL: spiritdogs

One thing you can try is to have the dog drag his leash around - you can step on it, about a foot from the buckle, so that he "self corrects" every time he jumps. 

Actually stepping on the leash while jumping would be a "leash popping", the power the dog has while jumping is much more than the one made by a human and i thought some people around here were against that kind of  "correction", very interesting

Coming to the end of the leash, as it were, is *not* the same as popping, which implies an action on the part of the human.  The reason for the self correction is that there is no oppositional force being transmitted down the leash.  The dog simply runs out of room.


I do find that ignoring the dog for the first few minutes when you come home can be very effective.  For more on that technique, see the book by Jan Fennell called "The Dog Listener" and read about her Amichien Bonding technique. 

"leash popping", "simply out or room", "human correction", "self correction", it does not matter, nobody answered my question:
 
The feeling (the dog has) in his neck at that moment of jumping and the feeling that he has when the human does it is the same, yes or no?????

Not being a dog it's hard to say. I would guess no because a leash pop is supposed to be delivered extremely quickly, while a dog jumping up that's tethered to the floor, no matter how strong he is, is probably creating a slower movement.

Regardless of the answer I'm not sure I get the point. A dog that touches a hot woodstove may experience the same sensation if a human touches him with a hot iron, but I doubt the outcome would be the same as far as the dog's mental/emotional state of mind and his behavior go.

I agree with houndlove about picking up the dish if they go for it before you can release them. That's how I always start out. After they get the hang of that, you'll notice your dog is probably staring at the food and not looking at you. So then, I start waiting until my dogs look at ME then I release them. Now I have two puppers who stare at me until they get the OK. Plus, now that they are looking at me, I can get them to do tougher things to earn their food. Like roll-over, spin, or whatever trick I've been working on. I try to change it up to keep them listening to me instead of just doing it automatically without thinking.

If you've got dogs with big hangy jowls like I do, however, be prepared with a mop to take care of the puddle of drool on the floor that's left after they get the OK to eat!  Seriously, Marlowe will do whatever I want him to for his food but the entire time he's got strings of drool hanging totally to the ground. Funny, but messy.

I use the "back" command if my dog gets to close to me when I'm holding her food.  I know she will jump and has done it before if I allow her to get too close to me.  I hold her food and say "back"  she backs up and usually goes into a sit then I place the food on the ground and give her a food command word.  which for her is "spicy", my own made up command that way it doesn't get it mixed up with other commands (something suggested to me by her trainer).  To Giz, "spicy" means it's alright to eat your food. The food command word is soppose to be a word that the dog doesn't hear very often and should not be a food related word- ok, so I made a mistake when choosing the word[]
 
As a side note, I should have picked a better word, one time while I was driving a taco bell commercial came on and was talking about the new "spicy" gordita (or something like that), suddenly Giz went crazy looking for her food.  I didn't understand what had happen till I realized what the radieo had said. 

As a side note, I should have picked a better word, one time while I was driving a taco bell commercial came on and was talking about the new "spicy" gordita (or something like that), suddenly Giz went crazy looking for her food.  I didn't understand what had happen till I realized what the radieo had said. 

[] Now THAT is FUNNY!

After posting this question and trying to apply the suggestions with minimal success, I ended up finding Jan Fennell's book at the library and applying her Amiechen Bonding technique.  It took us about 10 days to achieve the level of success I wanted - Bear not jumping all over me when it was meal time.  Now he sits behind me as I'm preparing his food as well as the cats'.  Sometimes he tries the wiggle-butt to scoot closer as he is sitting, but if I am too slow, he lays down and waits.  After all dishes are prepared, I have my little treat, and he knows he will not get his bowl until I'm done.  He quit the jumping and crazy barking.  When I grab his bowl, he runs out into the back room where I feed him and sits until I set the dish down and tell him "okay, eat".  He's not always perfect at keeping his butt down until the final release, but he is not jumping on me or trying to dive on the bowl before he gets the command.
 
 

ORIGINAL: espencer

Actually stepping on the leash while jumping would be a "leash popping", the power the dog has while jumping is much more than the one made by a human and i thought some people around here were against that kind of  "correction", very interesting

 
From what I understand, you don't correct a dog with "leash pops" with a tight lead.  The technique is to start with a slack lead, jerk and release.  Therefore the kind of self correction a dog gets for this is completely different to a "leash pop" administered by a human.  He doesn't quit jumping becuase it hurts when he does it.  He quits jumping because the jumping has now become intrinsically difficult to do - he does not have the room to manouvure. 
 
I always ignore a dog for 5 minutes when I get in.  For the dog to be anticipating an emotional arrival would leave him in an emotional state before I got home, meaning he is more likely to become destructive or noisy or just hyper when I get in through the door.  I also ignore him for 10 mins or so before I leave, for the same reason - I don't wish to leave him in an emotional state. 
 
Any time the dog is acting hyper, jumping etc, I don't want to reinforce his actions or his state of mind by paying attention to that behaviour.  If he jumps up at me I sweep past and get on with something else.  If you've seem the video of CM and Cartman on YouTube, that's what I'm getting at.  Cartman is leaping around and making demands and the cartoon CM says something like "I'm not validating his negative behaviour by responding to it in anyway".  Bingo.  If the dog harasses me, I turn away, fold my arms and look at the ceiling.  That usually works, if not I leave the room.  I only call the dog and ask for a sit when he is calm.  This means he is in a state of mind where he is more likely to succeed at what I am asking him to do - and my motto is; Always make it easy for the dog to succeed. 
 
In the specific scenario the OP was asking about, I would first apply this general rule for  hyper behaviour.  I would also employ NILIF so the dog learns he has to "sit" or "down" for anything he wants - he will generalise this after a while.  With the food bowl and treats, refuse to dole them out unless he is fairly calm and not jumping on you, even if this means you have to put them away somewhere out of his reach, leave it a while so he can calm down and then come back to it later.

In our house the dogs have to go to their respective feeding spots, and then they can eat.
That includes the crates for the younger dogs, even my 5 and half month old GSD puppy goes to his crate to eat or receive a treat.

None of this happens overnight, but eventually it will be that easy.

I had a jumping problem with Jules when I first got him. My legs were covered in scratches from him. Here is how I solved it. Everytime he saw me he'd run over and jump for attention and try to hump my legs. I'd fold my arms and turn my back to him ignoring him completely. I'd tell him to sit. When he sat I would immediately pet him and praise him. Now, when I come home he runs to me and sits. He sits there until I take off my jacket and drop my bags. Then I pet him all he wants. This took a few weeks. But it's so cute when he does it

ORIGINAL: mstrydream

I had a jumping problem with Jules when I first got him. My legs were covered in scratches from him. Here is how I solved it. Everytime he saw me he'd run over and jump for attention and try to hump my legs. I'd fold my arms and turn my back to him ignoring him completely. I'd tell him to sit. When he sat I would immediately pet him and praise him. Now, when I come home he runs to me and sits. He sits there until I take off my jacket and drop my bags. Then I pet him all he wants. This took a few weeks. But it's so cute when he does it

Perfect!!!!!! [sm=clapping%20hands%20smiley.gif]

ORIGINAL: Chuffy

ORIGINAL: espencer

Actually stepping on the leash while jumping would be a "leash popping", the power the dog has while jumping is much more than the one made by a human and i thought some people around here were against that kind of  "correction", very interesting

Normally I am, but with jumping up, it is a difficult behavior to correct, and not everyone can apply the principles of this training so well as mystrydream seems to have done.  I am not so opposed to a "correction" that is not associated with the human, and which does not involve an action that will hurt the small bones in a dog's neck.  When you step on the leash, it is done at the place where the leash touches the ground when the dog is standing, so when he jumps up, he is stopped by the collar at the top of his neck, not on his larynx as with a traditional "leash pop".  He also does not associate the correction with the human.  He has simply run out of room.  I do not employ that technique with dogs whose families are all on the same page about ignoring the bad behavior, but when there are family members who are not, or cannot be, on board (elders in danger of being knocked down, toddlers, etc.) then it is better to have this approach than to have a situation where a dog could be given up because he's gotten to be 60 pounds and is knocking people over. 
You are incorrect to assume that I don't occasionally use tools that might be deemed corrective, but I apply them humanely as I can, and try never to have dogs think that humans are unpredictable or aggressive.   Perhaps instead of trying to be snide or play "gotcha" you should simply ask if there's anything you don't understand about how I, or any other member, approaches a training technique.