Newbies to competitive Obed/Rally - "Wish someone had told me...." (Miranadobe)

 A few things that come to mind....

• If you are in Excellent, make sure you still have a SIX foot leash for honoring.  I swear every trial I'm in someone is scrambling for a leash!
• I always ask the judge what exercises *they* are particular on.  For example, I had one judge who was not super picky on pivots as long as we kept both feet inside an imaginary 1'sq. box (like, we didn't have to actually spin 180 on one foot).  Another judge told us he was very critical on the exercises where the dog must stop and you go around them, he penalized heavily for any pause/help. 
• I know it's not required but I try to wait until a run is over before walking my dog directly past ring gates.
• Make sure you still have control and obedience as you go from the Finish sign out of the ring.  For example if you are in Advanced, don't immediately reach down, grab the dog's collar, and lead it away.  Heel out and leash the dog under control.
• I personally like to train for the highest level I plan to compete in.  What that means is, if I'm training for Rally I'm training for Excellent from the beginning, not Novice.  In Novice you can get away with clapping your hands, patting your side, taking an extra step to lure the dogs with fronts and finishes...but in training I avoid this extra help since eventually it is penalized and I've found it is easier to train it correctly and maybe wait a bit longer to compete than have the dog become overly dependent on handler help that must be faded later.
  

You've pretty much planned on answering the questions I had before our first couple of trials, and Liesje had some great ideas.  A couple of things I can think of to ad are to make a copy of an entry form and keep it on hand for reference when filling out future ones.  Also- a reminder to remove tags before entering the ring (I take Caleb's off and clip them to the leash we don't use in the ring), and no prongs.  I've been told some judges may not let you show in a martingale, so I keep a plain flat collar in our bag. I check to see who is in the ring before me, and also the 2 or 3 ahead of them.  A couple of teams ahead of them is when I plan to be near the gate.  I have list of hints I typed up for another board.  If you're interested, I'll post it here for you.

Great!  Very good point about the 6' leash, you're right - I've seen people walk in w/4' and that peeves the judge.

Some other tips I'm including are to ask for extra copies of Rally maps after the trial is over, because you can use them to practice. 

Being aware of when scores are posted - I've been to some shows where the stewards refuse to post them right away for Rally. 

Being aware of when you can ask the judge to review your score with you (ie, some will let you review as soon as the class is done, others wait until the entire show is done, etc)

Another thing I struggle with is pace vs. accuracy.  I tend to speed up and hold my breath when I get nervous.  Now, a part of me goes for speed because I have long, large dogs that look better when moving at a faster pace, and I've won ties based on speed BUT if you blow past a sign you are DONE.  So I have to remind myself to keep the speed in check. 

I also do infinite walk-throughs.  I walk through from the start until they kick us off.  Maybe even a dozen times?  I memorize the course so I don't have to worry about mis-reading a sign.

micksmom

I've been told some judges may not let you show in a martingale, so I keep a plain flat collar in our bag.

You know, I had heard that, too, so I asked outright in an official Obed/Rally Seminar with the AKC Representative in January.  He stated flat out that martingales (collars) are allowed in the ring, including those with chain in them (which was my specific question).

 There's a lot of differing information floating around and I can see where newbies get confused, because even I get confused sometimes when someone is adament about how to interpret the rules (and they are WRONG!)  Just this weekend I had conflicting statements on Move-ups... one person saying 30 minutes before the entire show, the other insisting it's 30 minutes before that particular class start time.  *sigh*  MISINFORMATION!

micksmom

I have list of hints I typed up for another board.  If you're interested, I'll post it here for you.

-Walking the course  I walk the course at least 3 times (usually 4).  The first time I just walk from sign to sign, counting as I go.  Then I go back and walk it again as if I’m doing it with my dog, “tweaking” my footsteps as needed.  I always aim for at least one walk thru without re-doing a station.

 -Leash a 6 foot one works best for Novice to prevent the dreaded tight leash deductions.  I prefer a thin one.

- Start  Dog does not have to be sitting at the start.

-Finish Time stops when the team passes the Finish sign (remember to keep it on your right!  J

-Stop signs (Halt)  mean handler halts and dog sits.

-Halt/Sit  All you have to do is stop and have the dog sit once, just like a halt in traditional obedience.

-Call fronts with stop/HALT signs:  the dog does one more sit than there are stop signs (there's not a stop sign for the sit at front)

-You can take a couple of steps backwards with all Call Fronts in Novice.

-Once you stop moving at a Halt or on the Call Fronts, don't move your feet.

-Sits don’t fix crooked sits.  You’ll only lose a point at most for out of position.  Fixing it can result in losing  10 for not doing the sign correctly , and a retry will cost you 3 points.

-Spirals  Count the cones out loud as you do them.  I usually say how many I'm going around (as I make my first "loop", I say 3, second "loop", 2, etc)  One of our students does the opposite- she counts the number of loops she's doing.

-Walk Arounds  when returning to Heel position, you need to pause before continuing.  I count to 3 (1 one- thousand, 2 one-thousand, 3 one-thousand).   Saying, “Good dog” will work, too.  I also do this on all Halts.  The idea is to make it obvious that you’ve paused.

-Halt or Call Front- 1,2,3 Steps  A good cue for the dog is to count out loud how many steps you’re taking.

-“Phantom cookies”  you can pretend to take a cookie out of your mouth to keep your dogs attention, pat your “magic pocket” (don’t put your hand in the pocket or your mouth, tho).  I actually had a judge tell us that before the walk thru.  J

-Halt, Down, Walk Around   Don’t stop walking, even if your dog doesn’t go down right away.  He/she has to be down by the time you get back to heel position, but can take the whole time you’re doing the walk around to get there (you’ll probably lose a point for slow response, but it’s better than losing 10 for not doing it right or 3 for a retry).

-Moving Side Step Right  remember to do it directly in front of the sign (it is a change of direction). 

-Change of Direction Signs  like with the Moving Side Step Right, remember to do them right in front of the sign.

Great advice for newbies to train and compete as though they were in the most Advanced class.  That applies to any endeavor in dog training, IMO.

Paige, don't forget to tell the newbies the number one thing to remember.  Have FUN!! 

JackieG

Paige, don't forget to tell the newbies the number one thing to remember.  Have FUN!!

 Well, the judge will tell them that... as well as BREATHE!!!

micksmom, excellent clarification on the martingale COLLAR versus LEASH combo!!  I just edited my post to clarify that, too.

The multitude of rule changes drive me batty sometimes, but it is what it is.  Now, if they get rid of long sits/downs for Obed, I will be mega-perturbed!

 OK now I have a question!  Do they care which hand you hold the leash in? (for Rally Novice B)

Liesje

 OK now I have a question!  Do they care which hand you hold the leash in? (for Rally Novice B)

Per Chapter 3, Section 5 of the Obed Regs (which Rally defers to in the absence of any specific regulation in Rally)...

"The leash may be held in either hand or in both hands, but the hands must be held in a natural position."

Earlier in Chapter 2, Section 19 Hands, describes how hands should be held:

     In regards to regular obedience, always make sure to observe the heeling pattern. It is amazing the number of people that are so focused on their dog, that they forget to watch the teams that are showing before them. Also, ask the stewards if the sits and downs will be the entire class, or if the class will be divided. Or at small shows, will A and B be combined?

     I'm always astounded at the number of folks that are unprepared to go back in for sits. If you pay attention and ask the stewards it prevents rude shocks when the first half of the class is going back in, and you're thinking you have time for a snack.

debbieStx

Also, ask the stewards if the sits and downs will be the entire class, or if the class will be divided. Or at small shows, will A and B be combined?

 Oooh, another good one!  In the UKC trial I went to the other day, they had all A, B & C do sits together. (Yep, they have a C class)

(Edit to add, "Congrats on your dogs earning their CDs and REs!!)

Oh, someone has asked me to cover "how do you choose Rally versus Obedience" - that could be an interesting conversation!

miranadobe

...Oh, someone has asked me to cover "how do you choose Rally versus Obedience" - that could be an interesting conversation! 

You don't have to.  You can enter both at the same trial.  For me, tho, I chose to start competing in Rally first because of me.  Even at matches, traditional obedience makes me nervous- trying to pay attention to what I'm doing as well as listen to the judge. 

Yes, some people aren't sure if they should enter Rally first or Obedience first, or what, and they wonder how others made the decision one way or the other.

I do both Obed & Rally, (started in Rally.)  I have associates who staunchly support using up every Rally regular class to get the most ring experience before moving on to Obed.  Other associates prefer to avoid Rally altogether and ONLY enter Obed because they're aiming for the highest level of prestige and precision.  They train their dogs with Utility in mind and do not want to acquire "bad" habits that Rally can create.  Some people are just in it for the titles, so they'll do both and not care how good they are. lol  Some critical thinking about a handler's goals with their dogs and their own showing careers guide these decisions, so we can talk about that.