boxer puppy so young I don't know what to do?!

Hey, it's great that you're looking for help! Congrats on your new pup. I'd suggest going over to the puppies & housebreaking section (under "behavior") and/or doing a forum search for "housetraining." There is a TON of info here, I'm sure you'll be able to learn a lot!

I wish I could help you more specifically, but I don't know much about puppies. I'm sure someone will be along shortly with more specific advice.

What happened to momma and the rest of the litter?  This poor little pup is not even 6 weeks old yet and really does belong with his litter.
 
Yes, you can create an area for potty and he SHOULD figure out for himself that he needs to potty on the papers or pee pads and NOT on his bedding.  Any pups I've ever had, as a breeder or a foster home, have regulated themselves to not soil their bedding.
 
He cries at nite because he is too young to be away from his litter.  He is alone and scared.  In the wild a baby this young left alone is quite literally left to die, and that's a primal instinct that has not been bred out of dogs.  Being alone can mean death.  So at bedtime, arrange a place for him in your room so that he knows you are nearby.  What I do when I have a single pup is to crate them on a stand beside my bed.  Whimper gets a shhhh and fingers through the crate so he can touch them.  If he settles, he needs reassuring and we both go back to sleep.  If not, he needs to potty and I get us both up and out to potty.  Or if the weather stinks, such as in the winter, I set up a potty area in the bedroom.  You can use a childs wading pool lined with pads to keep the carpeting dry.
 
You get him to potty where you want him to potty by not giving him a choice.  That means limiting his freedom until he is old enough and trained enough to make the right choice.  But this is going to take a very long time since you're starting so young with him.

Also == KEEP HIM HOME.  Do *not* go out with him, do not take him in public, do not let him go on public streets -- he's far far far too young to vaccinate YET.  He needs to be ***at least*** 8-10 weeks old before you can do the first shots.
 
ANY shots given now will be completely wasted -- the mother's colostrum is still effective and it will simply negate a vaccine (and even after you give vax properly when he's 2+ months old you must wait THREE more weeks before those shots even begin to take effect). 
 
This dog has been weaned too soon and he's having a tough time.  My first suggestion would be Giffen & Carlson's Dog Owners Home Veterinary Handbook.
 
You'll also have to watch for bite inhibition problems (read about it all you can in books and online -- he's too young to be away from his momma and pack and he won't learn how hard he CAN bite and nip without beng hurtful so you will have to teach him -- look that phrase up "bite inhibition".)  Good luck

Where is the dog's crate or pen at night?  I agree, keep him right next to your bed so he knows you're there and doesn't feel too alone. 
 
There are also some things you can try that are supposed to soothe baby puppies, especially at night.  I have not tried them personally (never had a baby pup) but I've seen other people suggest them in similar situations to yours:

There is something called a Snuggle Puppy you can buy and it warms up and has a sound like a heartbeat.  If you can find an old-fashioned analog clock that makes a ticking sound, you can also wrap that in something soft to simulate a heartbeat sound. 

You can also get a DAP diffuser -- you plug it into the wall and it puts out doggie pheramones that are supposed to be calming.  You can't smell it, but the dog can and it may calm him.  Some people recommend this to help puppies transition to new homes. 

A warm (not hot!) hot water bottle can also help, puppies are used to the warmth of mom and littermates and may be cold as well as lonely. Wrap this in something soft also and make sure it's not too hot for  uppy.  Check like you would with a human baby. 
 
Soft music may help too, if you can sleep through it. 

House training:
[linkhttp://forum.dog.com/discus/messages/48/117345.html#POST400222[/link]>http://forum.dog.com/discus/messages/48/117345.html#POST400222]http://forum.dog.com/discus/messages/48/117345.html#POST400222[/link]
 
Good beginning info for new puppy owners (including how to get some sleep): [color=#000000]
[linkhttp://forum.dog.com/asp/m.asp?m=296285]http://forum.dog.com/asp/m.asp?m=296285[/link]
and [linkhttp://forum.dog.com/asp/m.asp?m=316689]http://forum.dog.com/asp/m.asp?m=316689[/link][/color]

1.  Yes he can be potty trained now but you need to take the initiative and get him in the right place when you anticipate he needs to go.  This is after etaing, drinking, waking and during/after play and chewing, plus every hour or so, plus any time he circles/paces/sniffs.  If you want him to eliminate outside there is no reason why you shouldn't take him out there to do it, unless your vet has advised otherwise.  Ignore accidents, clean up with enzymatic cleaners and REWARD REWARD REWARD for every correct-place potty.
 
2. Put him in an enclosed area with the floor covered so he has no CHOICE but to use the paper - although it's better to really make the effort to make sure he's outside at the right times if that is where you would prefer him to go - this area can be used if you have to leave him for any length of time.  If you get a crate DO NOT put paper or anything in it for him to pee on.  Make sure it is the right size so he can't move away from his bed to pee or poo but can still settle comfortably for short`periods.
 
3.  The best thing for toilet training is your own vigilance and lots of rewards for using the right spot!  I've never used newspaper or puppy pads to potty train puppies and I've had no problems.  I've used newspaper just for ease of cleaning when I've had to go out though.
 
4.  Stop going to him at night, this is only reinforcing his noisy behaviour.  It will get worse for a while (hey! whats going on it worked before!!) but if you are consistent he will stop.  However, it may or may not take him some time to learn to be clean at night using this method.... you might have dirty paper to clean up for quite a while as he has no incentive to hold it and will be getting into a poor habit of eliminating indoors, undoing your hard work and vigilance in the day.  I have found it easiest to use a crate and let him sleep inside it beside my bed with the door closed.  I get up in the night to ensure he is not forced to soil it because he has been confined too long - I set an alarm to wake me for this so he doesn't get rewarded for waking ME, then I wean him off these nighttime pee-breaks gradually (it really doesn't take long).  I move the crate from my bedside to its permanent place when he has settled in well and is managing to get through the night fairly easily without any toilet breaks.
 
He really has been taken from his mum too young - definately look at getting him into a class as soon as possible (although most will reuire him to have had his 1st shot at least which I think most vets won't do till 8wks).  This is a major priority; he needs to be around others of his own kind so they can teach him about being dog.  Otherwise he could be scared/aggressive towards other dogs when he is older.
 
I'm not sure I agree totally that you should avoid going out in public at all though.... more dogs die from behaviour problems than disease and lack of socialisation is a big cause of behaviour problems.  You can check with your vet about the risk of disease in your area and then maybe compromise by taking him out but carrying him in your arms near schools, shops, farms, parks, bus stops, main roads, beaches etc.... find a bench to sit on where you can watch the world go by together.  Boxers are bouncy dogs and need lots to do to keep them happy - this is one way of helping to keep him stimulated so he doesn't get bored and difficult.  The main thing is thought that he will get to see\lots of sights, smell lots of smells and encounter new people in a positive way.  If his early experiences are pleasant and varied he will learn to take new things in general in his stride without being too scared or hyper, in my experience this makes puppies easier to train.  If you have any friends who have totally friendly vaccinated dogs you could ask them to come round to play with your puppy and help to teach him some doggy manners.

I'm not sure I agree totally that you should avoid going out in public at all though.... more dogs die from behaviour problems than disease and lack of socialisation is a big cause of behaviour problems. You can check with your vet about the risk of disease in your area and then maybe compromise by taking him out but carrying him in your arms near schools, shops, farms, parks, bus stops, main roads, beaches etc.... find a bench to sit on where you can watch the world go by together. Boxers are bouncy dogs and need lots to do to keep them happy - this is one way of helping to keep him stimulated so he doesn't get bored and difficult. The main thing is thought that he will get to see\lots of sights, smell lots of smells and encounter new people in a positive way. If his early experiences are pleasant and varied he will learn to take new things in general in his stride without being too scared or hyper, in my experience this makes puppies easier to train. If you have any friends who have totally friendly vaccinated dogs you could ask them to come round to play with your puppy and help to teach him some doggy manners.

I agree.  We actually take pups at our classes as young as 8 weeks, for this reason.  We simply make sure that we take reasonable precautions, and we let owners know the risks, but we've had phenomenal success with insuring that pups get very well socialized - early and often, until adulthood.

Hi:
Thanks for the reply.
His fenced area is big but he has a small room that his bed is in it. He pees out side of the small room on the newspapers I put there. Is it wrong? Should I make him just a small crate and put him on the potty spot after briging him out?
In fact last night he cried so much and barked and howled alot and bothered me so much that I was close to giving him up! I bought him around 400$ but he looked so difficult to handle that I was ready to give him to a friend with a big yard for free. But at the moments when he is happy he is so cute and great that I can't give him up.
Anyway, last night he looked nervous and aggressive! I never thought they might get so aggressive at this age. He tried hard to bite everything around and was growling like an adult. I tried to play with him but he was not a good boy at all! At last I put him in the fenced area and he stoped growling after several minutes and slept for 2 hours.
After that he woke up with lots of stress and I brought him out (at 4AM) and I held him in my arms and after 10 minutes he went to sleep.
Please help me understand him. He spends most of his time in his bed sleeping but after that I play with him in the fenced area or bring him out for some playing and training (he obeys SIT command now most of the time). But I really can't watch him all day long so it is very hard to keep him out of the fence more than 2-3 hours a day. I can't understand him when he wants to pee!!! He smells the ground all the time and he suddenly stops and pees! But he smells the ground all the time! And differentiating between them is a hard task for me! Please help me get more into his world.
His recent aggression made me very nervous. I am scared he is one of the aggressive alpha males with lots of trouble. Am I wrong? he looked too young to behave like a fighting dog!!!
Thanks again for your kind replies.
Benign
P.S: I am a general practitioner and used to be very busy but for the next two-three months I am home mostly. Is it enough time that he grows into a puppy that I can leave him alone at home for 8 hours a day?

I never thought they might get so aggressive at this age.

At six weeks he is not being aggressive.  He is trying to play with you the same way that he would have played with his littermates.  The littermates would have taught him when he was being too rough.  They would have taught him bite inhibition, so that he wouldn't bite too hard.
 
Talk to the breeder.  Maybe you can get in contact with the owner of one of the littermates and arrange a play date.  That other owner is probably having the same problem.
 
When he bites and hurts you, yelp like a hurt puppy and turn your back.  Ignore the pup for two minutes - don't even look at him.  Stepping over a baby gate helps.  Gradually as he gets better, you yelp at less and less pressure.  Eventually you yelp when a tooth barely touches you and when he pulls on your clothes.  Yes, you pretend your clothes hurt.
 
If you think that the pup is going to bite, try to distract him and give him something else to chew on.  Puppies will chew on just about everything, so be sure he can't get to any electrical cords.
 

I am a general practitioner and used to be very busy but for the next two-three months I am home mostly. Is it enough time that he grows into a puppy that I can leave him alone at home for 8 hours a day? 

In 3 months he will be 9 months old and should be able to wait 8 hours to pee.  However, at 9 months he will be a doggie teenager - with all that implies.  He will be bored and likely to get into mischief.

He pees out side of the small room on the newspapers I put there. Is it wrong?

If he is peeing where you want him to, then things are fine.
 

In fact last night he cried so much and barked and howled alot and bothered me so much that I was close to giving him up! 

Was he in a crate next to your bed and on eye level with you?  Did he have a source of warmth?  Does he have a towel with his mother's scent on it?  Do you have a DAP diffuser (pheromones)? 
 

[font=verdana]But I really can't watch him all day long so it is very hard to keep him out of the fence more than 2-3 hours a day.

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I don't understand what you are saying here.  Are you leaving him outside alone?

Unless I misunderstood Janet, the fenced area is an inside ex pen only homemade?
 
And, no, this pup is NOT being agressive.  He is behaving like a puppy.
 
When I foster and have a litter I am never without the fanny pack and bulging pockets for appropriate chew things.  Yelping just flat has never worked for me.  When someone starts chewing on me they get a very gentle "unh uh, no bite" and then are given something that's ok to chew on with "here, THIS is what you can bite" and then praise for chewing on it instead of me.  If they persist in chewing on me, I get up and leave the room.  I do this without a word, without looking at them, I just leave.  And yeah, it's not uncommon for me to walk across a room dragging six or seven pups latched on to my pant legs.  I ignore and keep going.
 
Potty training is a matter of establishing a routine, as much for you as the pup.  You train YOU first and then you train the pup.  []
 
Here's what I do with a litter.  They sleep in a giant crate attached to an ex pen.  The crate has their bedding, and the far end of the ex pen has a potty area.  At nite, with so many I just flat don't worry about it....they go to where they are supposed to go to potty and that's good enough for me.  This hasn't caused issues later on for any of them and I need some sleep too!  With a single pup, I'd not do this, but with a litter, I have to maintain whats LEFT of my sanity!
 
First thing in the morning, it's OUTSIDE to go POTTY and I go with them and praise for every potty.  Then it's time for breakfast and again OUTSIDE to go POTTY.  The second trip is a combo trip...they run and play in the yard and stimulate their bowels by doing so and again each and every pup gets praised for GOOOOOOD potty.  When I've snagged an equal number of piles for puppies we go back inside.  Now this is where I usually sit down at the computer for a bit and for me, any area close to me is prime real estate.  They want to be close to me to the point that if someone gets up and wanders off, I know they need to potty and out we go.  It helps if the floor is something easy to clean which is why I will stragetically place pups and my computer in an area that won't be a major pain to clean.  Should someone start to make a mistake I rush to grab them in a towel...and yep, I always have a stack of those handy too with pups.....with an unh uh...we go OUTSIDE to go POTTY and rush the pup outside and then tell him THIS is where we go POTTY...we go POTTY OUTSIDE.  And then more praise for GOOOOOD potty.  If an actual mistake gets made, which is rare since I watch them closely, I just clean it up, no muss, no fuss, but I put the pups outside to play first.  During this time too, I work with them a bit on basic obedience, but in miniscule little bits of time.  At this age they have the attention span of a gnat so teeny bits at a time.  They get another trip OUTSIDE to go POTTY (although I do have a doggie door and they are welcome to come and go at will as well and then a nap in the crate/pen before lunch.  After nap we start the whole routine again, and so it goes for the entire day.
 
Potty training a pup, especially one so young is a lot of work, but that work pays off with a very dependable animal.  Another great bonus of this method is that you can just about get them to go potty on command, and this comes in VERY handy when you are traveling.  I did NOT do this with Thor and Sheba and danged if one camping trip Thor didn't "hold it" for 18 hours.  He pottied freely at the campsite but once we were on the road, he flat wouldn't go.  Sheba, being a little younger, pottied, but not outside...she went in the back of the motorhome and peed on the floor by the bedroom, but she flat out would NOT potty anyplace other than "familar" turf.  And thus was borne the wisdom of crating them for travel, or at the least using a seat harness, even in a big, relatively safe motor home.  And, I've since heard horror stories, but the point is, having a dog who will potty on command is WONDERFUL.  All six of mine will do it now and it's a lifesaver sometimes.

Should I make him just a small crate and put him on the potty spot after briging him out?

 
Ditto janet... however, this is what I do and it works well for me.  I can't stress enough that it is very important that he is not confined on that small area for very long at a time, or he will be forced to soil it.  This will be very distressing for him and set housetraining back by WEEKS if not months. 
 
One concern though:  if the breeder of the puppy did not practise good husbandry and make sure that the litter could get away from the bed to pee and poo he may have already overcome this useful inhibition.  I'm just thinking that the fact that they let him go so early might mean that there were other things that weren't done right too maybe?  If thats the case and he doesn't care where he pees and poos then this method won't be as effective. 
 
Really, he is not aggressive.  Don't be alarmed.  This is PLAY!  Watch pups playing together and you will see the same behaviour - it is normal.  I advise always having a chewie on hand ANY time you interact together, stick one end in his mouth while you pet him to keep his jaws busy.  Praise him up and down ANY time he chews on a GOOD thing!!  Give him cold things to chew on - chilled toys or ice cubes for example - this will help when he is teething as he will prefer these to your hands or furniture []
 
A crate or indoor pen is very useful for leaving the pup for short periods so he can become accustomed to solitude gradually, in preparation for when you will be out during the day.  I HIGHLY recommend you do this, starting now.  Leave him alone while you are in another part of the house initially.  Leave him with something special and safe to chew on, or an interactive toy like a kong or treat ball.  In our house we use kongs and the dogs ONLY get them when left alone.  They love the kong so much they are practically pushing us out of the door when they see us get our coats on [] 
 
Make sure he eliminates beforehand and don't leave him long. 
Keep your comings and going low key, don't make a big fuss immediately on your return or before you leave - try to ignore him completely for 5-10mins at these times. 
Build up the time he is left and leave the house for short stretches to get him used to that too... you might have to only go as far as out of the door and back the first few times, just so he knows you WILL come back. 
Go for further and longer each time.
Consider a dog walker or day care for him when your days out are long, or get a friend or neighbour to come round to check on him and maybe take him for a walk or some playtime.

Give him cold things to chew on - chilled toys or ice cubes for example - this will help when he is teething as he will prefer these to your hands or furniture

You could also try
(1) putting an old washcloth in dilute chicken broth,
(2) wringing out the cloth,
(3) tying a knot in it, and
(4) freezing it.
 
Also
Chilly Bone - for painful teething or hot day relief - soak in water or broth - [link>http://www.dog.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=090122+SCN]www.dog.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=090122+SCN[/link][/size]