pit bull owners/fosters: break sticks?

I have no experience with break sticks, but just a memory from physics class reminds me that a longer lever creates more force.  I'd personally go with the longer stick . . . . especially since its only 3" longer than your other option, its not like you would be wrestling with a sword trying to separate the dogs.

But hopefully the break stick will just sit on the shelf and collect dust!  []

You can EASILY make break sticks yourself from ash ax handles.  You could make two from one handle and save money.  Cut the handle to the desired length, then taper one end with the saw.  When I had APBT's, that is what I did.

I assume you know the proper method of breaking up a fight with break sticks?  Hopefully, like me, you will never have to do it, but it is best to be prepared, just in case.

ORIGINAL: Shohin

I have no experience with break sticks, but just a memory from physics class reminds me that a longer lever creates more force. 

 
You don't use the length of the stick for leverage.  You twist the stick like you twist the throttle on a motorcycle.

I know this is going to sound bad, but no, I don't know how to use them.
BUT, when I go to meet these dogs, I'll have the behaviorist/trainer teach me.
It's mainly a pit bull shelter (even though they DO take other dogs and cats and guinea pigs), so someone will know how to use them and they can teach me.

It doesn't sound bad at all.  All of us are ignorant about some things.  There is no shame in that.  I just wanted to make sure you didn't think you are prepared to break up a pit bull fight because you own a breaking stick.  There is a technique that you need to use mostly to avoid getting hurt yourself.
 
As a sidebar, I never actually used a break stick to break up a fight, but the one I had looked like it belonged to a very experienced dog fighter.  One of my pits always carried the stick on our walks and it was well scarred.  The funny thing was, she would put the stick down to sniff out a really good place to pee.  Sometimes, she would forget to pick the stick up, so I had to do it, so we could continue our walk.  Once she realized that she wasn't carrying the stick, she would sit her butt on the ground and look up at me until I gave her the stick.

awww!

The lady just emailed me back and said that it looks like Sunday would be good to do an intro with the dogs.
My fiancee is being a butt about it because the drive is an hour, straight through Chicago traffic and he doesn't want to take the boys up during the introduction. He said (and I agree) that last time when we got Ella and did the intro. for her, my son with autism got over-stimulated and had a melt down on the way home. That can happen sometimes in public places for him. Especially when the two dogs will first be meeting with Ella and he'll be around people he doesn't know.
I might or might not have to bring my children. My son with autism will never bother the dog, as he doesn't bother Ella at all. I could bring my other son with if they want to see how the dog does with children. My other son will be the one to play with the dog anyway.
I asked her about it, we'll see what she says.

We're now thinking about making our own break sticks out of the axe handles.
How would we have to do it?

ORIGINAL: chewbecca

We're now thinking about making our own break sticks out of the axe handles.
How would we have to do it?

 
It is easiest, I imagine, if you have a table saw, but it certainly can be done with a circular saw or even a hand saw.
 
You can buy a handle at places like Lowes or any hardware store.  I would get the type of handle that is straight, not curved at the end like some of them are.  The curve might be good for an ax, but not for a break stick.  []
 
1.  Cut the handle to the desired length.  I would say, about a foot long should do. 
 
2.  Mark the end of the stick to cut your taper.  I would start the taper maybe 3 inches from the end of the stick.  You will have to make two cuts because you want to end up with a V shape.
 
Actually, the pictures on the web site you posted will give you a good idea what you need to do to make your own.

OK, now you have got me thinking I should be prepared.  You can't just pry open the dog's mouth with your hands?  You need a tool?  Is there a humane way to test the dog's strength when it locks down on an inanimate object?  Are there other tried and true methods.

ORIGINAL: DPU
OK, now you have got me thinking I should be prepared. 

 
Absolutely, I think, you should be prepared.  Based on my experience, if you are careful, it is unlikely you will ever have to break up a fight but certainly, you should be prepared to do so.  You might, for example, encounter a dog owned by someone who is not as responsible as you are and is not in control of their dog.  Let the games begin.  []
 
I had a trainer show me the proper way to use a breaking stick.  You can practice the technique by getting your dog to play tug of war with someone. 
 
It has been awhile since I was shown this but, as I recall, there is a space in a dog's mouth where there are no teeth.  This is the place you want to put the break stick and is the reason for the end being tapered.  You straddle the dog's back, put the breaking stick in his mouth, grab the skin on the back of his neck with your free hand.  Twist the breaking stick like you are throttling up a motorcycle and pull the dog back.
 

You can't just pry open the dog's mouth with your hands?

 
That would be an almost foolproof way to get bitten.  []
 

Is there a humane way to test the dog's strength when it locks down on an inanimate object?  Are there other tried and true methods.

 
A breaking stick, I am told, is humane, tried and true.

While the breaking stick is great for the dog that will not leave go of something already dead, limp, not living, or only trying to escape....bear in mind there are other types of altercations.
 
The breaking stick is useless IMO, if the other dog is also latched on or able to strike at the dog above it...you WILL get bitten, because that dog will be aiming for the other dogs mouth/head, where you are.
 
It is also useless if the other dog, once freed returns and attacks the dog in your grasp...you will get bit again.
 
IF both dogs are game, or large size, and you are alone...you have limited options...I find the doorway/gate method most likely to work. That's where you drag one of the dogs to a place with a door/gate and slowly close it as you drag one dog thru...sometimes you can even use it to physically smack the dog to make it release..not nice but nicer than the fight. Potential problems would be displacement biting once the dogs are apart and the door is shut with you and one on one side and the other one alone on the other.
 
Probably the best way would be to avoid them in the first place...lol! But that's not always possible I know well!

here's some break stick info on how to use.

[linkhttp://www.pbrc.net/breaksticks.html]Break stick info.[/link]

Another way to stop a fight you need to people for this, but jab a finger up the butt of the dog that is clamped down, while the other person holds the other dog off. It is kind of gross but if you think about it a finger jabbed up there would make pretty much anything open their mouth. Ask any guy who has ever had a prostate exam....
Hopefully you won't have to use the stick at all. Fights are a pretty horrible thing to have to see, especially if it is one of yours in the fight.

ORIGINAL: HKdog
but jab a finger up the butt

 
LMAO.  I hope Mark doesn't read that.  He will want to know how hard he has to bite you before you...  []

Chewbecca, that site you referenced in your 1st post does not have a ordering procedure.  Did I miss something?
 
I think my eyes are playing tricks on me.  I am seeing green when I know I should be seeing red.