Dog / Animal photography - Any tips / guides?

    • Gold Top Dog

    ShelterDogs, I got your PM and am responding re. the photography in this thread.  Most of what I would say has already been covered above.  Another thing is that you really have to know the dogs.  When you are doing events this is more important than being a good photographer.  What I mean is, if I am the official photographer for a GSD show, the owners would rather have a not-perfect photo of their dog stacked correctly and taken from the correct angle, than a photo that is not flattering to the dog that might be perfect as far as white balance, exposure, etc.  I hope that makes sense!  I get asked to be the official photographer for dog shows and events not because I am the best photographer with the best equipment (quite far from it, on both counts) but because I KNOW the breed and/or the sport/event.  If I'm photographing a Schutzhund trial, I know *when* to take the picture, what types of action shots best showcase the dog and what shots the owner would delete.  If a dog is not performing well, I know when to not take a picture so as not to inadvertently offend the owner.  Again here I reitterate how important it is to be at the level of the dog.  I've seen some great photographers with great skill take pics I would trash because they were standing up when taking a photo of a dog stacked on the ground.  I've had people tell me that one of my greatest advantages photographing dog events is that I can easily squat down, sit on my knees, or lie on my stomach.  Some people are physically incapable of getting correct angles.  When crawling around I am also very conscious of being a fly on the wall, not EVER getting in the way of a judge, not ever creating a distraction for a dog or handler.  At the conformation events I shoot, everyone in the ring yields to the judge, and everyone else (ring stewards, translator, secretary) but the judge yields to the photographer.  I have some favorite ring stewards that are awesome about keeping people out of my way without me constantly having to ask.  When I do a show with my little group of photogs we promise to get gaiting and stacked shots of every single dog and for the types of shows we do there are sometimes 20+ dogs in the ring, plus the handlers, double handlers, judge(s), translator, stewards, and other officials.  I like being a photographer because I know German so I can hear what the judges are saying about the dogs under their breath, lol.  It also gives me the best view of the dogs and I can hear the critiques in both languages.

    Also I totally agree with buster, I MUCH prefer overcast days that have light, or even right before or after a light rain, to full noon sun.  My preferred lens also seems to work the best in those conditions.  I've actually gotten better pictures at dusk than in mid-day sun.

    • Gold Top Dog

    Liesje
    ShelterDogs, I like being a photographer because I know German so I can hear what the judges are saying about the dogs under their breath, lol.  It also gives me the best view of the dogs and I can hear the critiques in both languages.

    Also I totally agree with buster, I MUCH prefer overcast days that have light, or even right before or after a light rain, to full noon sun.  My preferred lens also seems to work the best in those conditions.  I've actually gotten better pictures at dusk than in mid-day sun.

    Sehr gut, Liesje! Ich verstehe ein bisschen Deutsch. I took two years in High School, visited there for a couple of weeks, and currently am learning Pimsleur - Beginner. Thanks for you insight into dog photography, Liesje. Getting right down on your belly is a great idea. I knew that before about getting down to eye level, but I always just bent down on the knees. Never got on my belly. Spater.

    • Gold Top Dog

    rwbeagles

    oh and also...I again have no idea how "fast" your camera is. But when I owned a Point and Shoot I became very good from necessity at ANTICIPATING when a shot might present itself. If, when you press the button to take a photo...you have SECONDS between that and the photo actually being snapped...this can be a huge problem. You will miss shot after shot. You must learn in that case...to anticipate when your dog is going to do something cool..like jump for a ball or off the couch...

      Yikes - how long ago did you own a P&S? This sounds like the first P&S I used 10 years ago - hit the shutter and wait 3 seconds. P&Ss have come a long way :)

     

     My favorite agility photographer has some good blog posts on photographing your pets:

     Getting Attention for pictures: http://www.pawprintslife.com/Blog/893DAED9-F347-4F82-BAC5-66FCC744CE43.html

    Photographing Black Pets: http://www.pawprintslife.com/Blog/Entries/2009/9/28_Photographing_Your_Black_Dog.html

     Getting Your Dog to Close Their Mouth for Pictures: http://www.pawprintslife.com/Blog/Entries/2009/9/9_Getting_Your_Dog_to_Close_Its_Mouth_for_Pictures.html

      I have taken lots and lots and lots and lots of dog photos. My best tip is to take lots of pictures. The more you take, the better the chance of getting a few really good ones! Also no matter what kind of camera you have, know your camera. Read the manual, learn the settings and then take lots of pictures to see what settings work best in different situations.

    • Bronze

    Simply amazing!

    • Bronze

    Capturing good photos of pets, especially dogs, can be so tricky—they move around so much, and getting the lighting just right is a challenge. One thing I learned that’s been super helpful is understanding how midtones work in photography. They’re basically the “in-between” tones that help balance the light and dark areas of a photo, which is crucial for capturing the natural look of a dog’s fur or expressions. I found this guide on what midtones are in photography skylum.com/.../what-are-midtones-in-photography and it really helped me figure out how to tweak my settings or edits to make my dog pics look more professional. Small adjustments can make a huge differenc