pulling, barking, grunting, growling when passing other dogs!

    • Gold Top Dog

    pulling, barking, grunting, growling when passing other dogs!

    uhh so this problem is getting worse and worse. We are still attending weekly traning classes for intermediate training which she does fine at, and may i add does comepletely fine with the other dogs in the room!

    But when we are walking she more and more pulls and grunts to get to them.. today there was a little collie comming up behind us on the sidewalk and we tired to keep moving her along, but she just kept pulling behind us and wanting to get to it, and unfortunately the collie was doing the same to her and she ended up backing out of her collar!!! this is the first time it happened, and i am definitly going out to buy a harness tomorrow (the kind that clips int he front to help with pulling) But all she did was run right to the dog and want to play/smell.. but it was obviously scary and VERY wrong for her to behave this way! I'm getting so frustrated because we still try to use treats to get her attention and sometimes avoid passing a dog by going on the other side of the street or something when we some one coming.

    I did even try the tiring her out today before our evening walk. We went to the dog park but no one was there so i basically ran laps up and down it and had her following me and we just played around for like 20-30 minutes and she was STILL intent on getting to every dog that was in her sight on our walk, ESPECIALLY if they are barking and pulling for her.

    Its apparent i dont' have enough control over her anymore like i used to when she was more fearful of everything. Both my boyfriend and I are consistant and on the same page about the way we do things and walk her so im just not sure what other techniques to try besides to just avoid other dogs on our walks at all costs and just be satisfied that she gets along with the dogs in our life that matter most (my parents dogs when we visit and connecticut, and his parents dogs in north jersey- we can leave her home alone with them both)

     

    • Gold Top Dog

    I haven't read your other posts, so I may be missing some info. Having a dog that you cannot control is very dangerous - for you and the dog. Especially if it is a big, strong dog.  You can go down real easy and cause serious injury.  The fact that he seems friendly with these dogs is good, but just because he's friendly doesn't mean the other dog is.

    I did find the harness better for MY control, but did not lessen the behaviour.  I know a few people on the board  use or have used  a pinch collar. I never had, so I can't really comment. I don't think anyones 'likes' using them but for safety reasons it's been effective. Just a thought?

     

    • Gold Top Dog

    yeah the harness definitly helped on our walks today, it was way easier for me to control her and it did help a little with the behavior because i was able to pull her along and pull her entire body/chest rather then her neck (and possibly slipping out of the collar again)

     

    I wonder if something like a small little zapper would help control the behavior? ive seen someone use it before for his dog, but im not sure how effective it is? like hold a remote in my hand and have it attached to the dogs collar and give them a little zap when they start to be too concerned with the other dog. maybe it will help them corespond that behavior with someing negative?

    • Gold Top Dog

     NO!!!!!!!

     

    Shocking a dog who is "attacking" another dog will often cause the dog to get worse. The more pain you put on a dog who is engaging in that behavior, the more it associates other dogs with pain. 

    • Gold Top Dog
    Don't have a whole lot of time right now to respond, but have to also say big NO to a shock collar for a problem like this. Two things are wrong with that - one is that a shock collar should be used for negative reinforcement, not punishment; and two, punishment will not help this problem, it will likely make it worse.

    Systematic desensitization is your best bet.

    • Gold Top Dog

    Please don't use an electronic collar on a dog in this scerario.  I would recommend a one on one consultation with a trainer qualified to show you how to teach your dog how to react at the sight of another dog.  If you punish a dog for his normal reaction of wanting to greet other dogs you may very well may create a dog who associates other dogs with pain and this you don't want.  You want your dog to consider the sight of an oncoming dog as the greatest thing in the world.  It won't happen overnight and requires committment on your part to teach your dog a new way to behave. 

    • Gold Top Dog

    jennie_c_d

    NO!!!!!!!

    Shocking a dog who is "attacking" another dog will often cause the dog to get worse. The more pain you put on a dog who is engaging in that behavior, the more it associates other dogs with pain. 

     

    Amen.  I have no qualms using e-collars appropriately but in this scenario I wouldn't be surprised if the dog whirled around bit the owner.

    Honestly there is no tool that is going to fix/correct this.  A tool is just something for better control.  It's going to take a lot of time and patience and effort, both desensitizing the dog and also building a neutral or more positive association with passing the other dogs.

    The no-pull harness is a good tool but not really intended for this.  For one the dog can easily slip it.  Two, I think it's intended more for general pulling and training the loose leash walk, which are training issues, than dealing with dog reactivity, which is a behavior issue.

     

    • Gold Top Dog

    Liesje
    Amen.  I have no qualms using e-collars appropriately but in this scenario I wouldn't be surprised if the dog whirled around bit the owner.

     

     

    Absolutely. Attention training, in a quiet environment, and strict NILIF (to gain focus) would be my first steps. I would never allow the dog to engage in this behavior, literally. 

    • Gold Top Dog

    Ok well I'm definitly not getting one,i just thought id throw an idea out there (because like i said i saw someone with it once and they said thats how they used it)

    My dog is definitly not in "attack" mode eaither.. its more like "doggy doggy i want to play come meet with me noooww!" i definitly don't want to be making the situation worse either so I am just looking for steps that are headed in the correct direction to help the problem over time.

     

    I definitly understand it will take time and patience, and we work on it every day...

    so what exactly would be a scenerio for systematic desensitization? And what is negative reinforcement?

    what is the best way to act/respond when aproaching and oncoming dog and my dog already has it in sight?

    I usually just do the "no" "lets go" "com on" and pull them along...

    • Gold Top Dog

     I use the gentle leader on my dog.  It helps tremendously when passing other dogs.  I am very careful not to hurt my dog's neck.  I did use the pinch collar for a short period of time.  It was recommended by a trainer.  Unfortunately it just fell off at the park (when she was relaxed and not pulling).  She took off.  I would never trust it again.  Especially since hearing that yes, they can fall off. 

    • Gold Top Dog

    Yes the pinch collar can break apart or fall off, though I've never seen it happen when fitted corretly using a good quality one.  If I'm worried that it will happen, I also use a fursaver or slip collar and attach the lead to both.  I think most of the times they fall off are either because they are not fitted properly (too loose and/or the prongs are too large), the quicksnap breaks, or the owner always takes the prong off by pinching the same link and over time that link changes shape.

    • Gold Top Dog

    mydog4ever
    My dog is definitly not in "attack" mode eaither.. its more like "doggy doggy i want to play come meet with me noooww!"

    That's how Honor is, and she used to be be very trying on a walk around other dogs.  It used to be so bad that people who didn't know her misconstrued her behavior as aggression, and it wasn't very pleasant for Honor who wanted to meet that other dog SOOO bad and couldn't because they're running away in fear from her. Stick out tongue

    One method that reeeeally worked for Honor was a combination of clicking and treating for calm behavior, and by removing her from what she desired when she lost control.  We practiced this a lot whenever we went to Petsmart or another place where you'd very likely run into another dog.  As we walked toward the dog, I would keep a close eye on her, gauging her excitment and her threshold level.  When she was calm while we approached the other dog, I would c&t her frequently to reinforce that THIS state is a good one to be in.  If she started to get too revved up, I would immediately turn around and go in the opposite direction (away from what she desired).  Wash, rinse, repeat.  Even if the two of you only get within 25 feet of the other dog the first time, that's ok, with consistent training maybe you'll get within 24 feet of the next dog.  And closer and closer.  Don't get discouraged, desentization can be a long process for some dogs.  Honor happened to pick up on this quick, especially since the c&ting made the calm behavior super clear. And of course, the ultimate reward for her was being able to interact with the other dog.

    The reason why I stress the observance of the threshold is that I found with Honor that if she crossed that line from "OMG so excited!" to "AGHHHHHHH MUST PLAY NOW!!!!!!!!!! AGGGGGHHHHH!", that she could not even listen to a word I was saying, so at that point any training I wanted to do was null and void.  If I removed us from the siutation before she got into a tizzy, she seemed to be able to take that in, like "Ok, light bulb, when I go nuts, the dog goes away" (if dogs could talk, lol).

    Like others have suggested, desentization will be your best option.  I'm a big fan of clicker training, as my dogs respond very well to it, and I find that it makes training extremely clear to the dog, which usually speeds things up.  If you're not comfortable with it, even employing a marker, such as "YES!" - then treat, could be very helpful to you.  Just remember to reward the behavior you want, and to be observant of whether or not your dog is still actively involved with you and the training.

    Good luck!  I know how frustrating this kind of behavior can be, but it's SO rewarding when your dog can approach others calmly!

    • Gold Top Dog

     Have you ever done a basic obedience class? That sounds like a great place to start.

    • Gold Top Dog

    jennie_c_d
    Shocking a dog who is "attacking" another dog will often cause the dog to get worse. The more pain you put on a dog who is engaging in that behavior, the more it associates other dogs with pain. 

    Even when i agree a shock collar it's not necessary for this, the above statememt is not how dogs relate corrections with other dogs on the street. The dog's brain will never make this association because in nature for you to hurt me you have to touch me first. There is not "pain by distance" association, i use leash corrections with my dog when he is paying too much attention to another one on the street and my dog has never become aggressive towards them. He knows that he should ignore them instead.

     

    • Gold Top Dog

     What do you mean grunting? As soon as you see an approaching dog, put her in a sit-stay and treat until the dog passes. Or change direction, if she can't behave maybe a strict NILIF protocol will work. Start at home. All this is my opinion.