How do i teach Advanced Down - Instant and at Distance

    • Gold Top Dog

    How do i teach Advanced Down - Instant and at Distance

    My dogs "lie down" is reasonable at close quarters, if a little slow and reluctant at times.  Some dogs I see crash down as if their lives depended on it. How do I teach mine to lie down much quicker?

    And then how do I teach it at a distance - is it just a case of build up distance slowly? What is the best way of rewarding when the dog is longer distances away?

    • Gold Top Dog
    YellowOx
    Some dogs I see crash down as if their lives depended on it.

    I used a clicker, and eventually started clicking ONLY the instantaneous ones. Pirate body-slams like a pro wrestler now, LOL.

    • Gold Top Dog

    sl2crmeg

    I used a clicker, and eventually started clicking ONLY the instantaneous ones. Pirate body-slams like a pro wrestler now, LOL.

    yep, that's what I do too.  As far as rewarding from a distance, that's the beauty of clicker training.  The click is the reward and the actual food or whatever you use can have a time delay once the clicker is charged and the dog understands the concept.
    • Gold Top Dog

    Nikon is learning this right now.  First I teach speed using drive.  I always use drive (toys) for speed and food for precision (like perfect front sits, side sits).  Make sure the dog has a good "sphinx down" (plops to the belly, doesn't have to sit first).  Once I had the speed and response I wanted, we played this fun game where I would run with Nikon at my side and then say "platz!" (his down command) and set a treat down and keep running.  This got him down fast and he would be distracted by eating the treat for a second or so and then realize I kept running, but stay down (which I would then mark from afar and go back to reward).  This is to start getting him ready for the down out of motion exercise.  Now, I also recall him, and then command him to platz as he's coming in, mark it, and walk up to him to treat him.  He's learning that down is the same anywhere.

    • Gold Top Dog

     I had to try multiple different ways to train my dogs at this because each dog learned it differently.

    With Neiko I ended up using a target half way between us. Once he learned to touch the target and lie down, I removed the target and practiced without it, using a treat being tossed. Btw, I include a hand signal with this that the dogs can see from far away. It really comes in handy. Once while camping, I walk across the street to the bathroom. Neiko stayed at the camp site and waited. When he saw me come out, he started to come across the street to run and meet me. I raised my arm above my head (my signal for down at a distance) and he dropped right then - before crossing the street. He stayed there until I got to him. Luckily there was no traffic, but this would have been a life saver.

    Anyway, with Lily, I had to do a down stay and slowely move away from her. I made it a fast paced game where she would walk with me, then down, then walk then down then stay then come half way then down, etc. It was always very fast (which is how she likes to learn). Eventually, she got the idea.

    With Abbie, I had to tie her leash to a fence and increase my distance from her and ask for a down.

    • Gold Top Dog

     Max is the only dog I have had that I have taught to do down at a distance, or do anything at a distance. I actually added a cue that meant do the thing I told you to do where you are right now. I didn't intend to, it just sort of happened when I was teaching it. He'd keep trying to get to me, so I stuck my foot up so he couldn't get closer to me. I wish I could remember this in better detail exactly, but he did get it that the cue alone, meant come here and do it, and foot up + cue meant do it where you are.

    • Gold Top Dog

    Jewlieee

     I had to try multiple different ways to train my dogs at this because each dog learned it differently.

    With Neiko I ended up using a target half way between us. Once he learned to touch the target and lie down, I removed the target and practiced without it, using a treat being tossed. Btw, I include a hand signal with this that the dogs can see from far away. It really comes in handy. Once while camping, I walk across the street to the bathroom. Neiko stayed at the camp site and waited. When he saw me come out, he started to come across the street to run and meet me. I raised my arm above my head (my signal for down at a distance) and he dropped right then - before crossing the street. He stayed there until I got to him. Luckily there was no traffic, but this would have been a life saver.

    Anyway, with Lily, I had to do a down stay and slowely move away from her. I made it a fast paced game where she would walk with me, then down, then walk then down then stay then come half way then down, etc. It was always very fast (which is how she likes to learn). Eventually, she got the idea.

    With Abbie, I had to tie her leash to a fence and increase my distance from her and ask for a down.

     

     

    Excellent post on why you have to be a thinking trainer - every dog is different.  I'm gratified that you managed to figure out a way to teach each dog using positive methods that worked!  Nice job.