aggressive when hiding under furniture....

    • Bronze

    aggressive when hiding under furniture....

    My manchester terrier mix has recently become very aggressive/nippy when he is hiding under furniture. He has been to the pound twice and is thought to be about 1 1/2 years old. I've had him for about 7 months. During the time I've had him, he's always hated going into his crate. I have never had a problem with him under the furniture until recently. The hiding normally occurs when he thinks he's going in his crate. When it's time to go outside or really go in his crate, he would let me pull him out from under the furniture with no problems at all.

    The past couple of weeks he refused to let me place my arm under the furniture. He becomes very aggressive and nips at me, sometimes even after I remove my arm. He shoots out like an eel and then disappears all over again. I thought maybe he was guarding toys, so I looked while he was playing outside in an effort to keep my fingers. There's never anything under the furniture besides him. I've tried coercing him with treats, but that doesn't work. Sometimes he'll come out if I go into another room and shake my keys or open the front door and sometimes he won't. I've also blocked off some of his "safe places" to cut down on search time but I can't block everything. I can catch him off guard and put him in his crate long before it's time for me to leave but the whines are just horrible. When I can't get him out from under the furniture, I place a doorway gate up for the room he's in so he's not doing who knows what to the rest of the house. He hardly ever has accidents and when he does I'm somewhat thankful it's only poop.

    Are there any other methods that may help me keep my fingers and successfully remove my dog from his "safe place" under the furniture?

    • Gold Top Dog

    why does he feel the need to hide under furniture?   I certainly would never try to forcibly drag a dog out from under furniture or off furniture, that's just asking to be bit. Teach him to come when called. It seems the real problem is he hates his crate. Why do you suppose that is? perhaps you have an alternative confinement area that doesn't require a crate?

    • Gold Top Dog

     Direct as usual mudpuppy, and right on. 

    OP, you and your dog are having a little mismatch of agendas here.  I would work much harder to have a "no matter what" recall and until I did, my dog would be dragging a light line about 8 feet long - a piece of clothesline assuming your dog wouldn't chew it, or a long leash with the handle cut open or off so it doesn't catch on something.

    • Gold Top Dog

    mudpuppy

    why does he feel the need to hide under furniture?   I certainly would never try to forcibly drag a dog out from under furniture or off furniture, that's just asking to be bit. Teach him to come when called. It seems the real problem is he hates his crate. Why do you suppose that is? perhaps you have an alternative confinement area that doesn't require a crate?

    MP is right on this one.  Either find a containment that the dog will accept OR..  make the crate a nice place be.  Feed your dog in his crate, through yummy bones in his crate, give treats in his crate - don't force him in the crate.  Lure and reward...     Teach a "come" command with a treat in your hand and use it to get him out from under the couch.  Start to leave the crate door open and throw good stuff in it and let the dog go in and take his goodies.   Buy a Kong and fill it with treats or peanut butter and put it in the crate with him.   If the crate is made to be a place he wants to be with food, your life will be easier.

    • Gold Top Dog

    Sounds like this dog has some separation anxiety.  Is he crated ONLY when he is left alone?  If he is crated at times when you are at home, does he whine?  Dogs with separation anxiety are often worse when they are crated when left alone.  If you can, safely contain him without crating when he is alone.  If you do a search on this site you will find advice on dealing with separation anxiety.  I'm sure with some effort and patience on your part he can improve. 

    • Puppy
    It seems you have some definite issues going on with ? (Manchester Mix). As a Dog Trainer that has rehabilitated many Rescue Dogs, there are perhaps a few tips that I can offer you in addition to some of the already good ones posted here. Rescue Dogs often have a history of trauma or circumstances that make them feel mistrustful and they often lack confidence. As he has been in a Shelter 2 times, this is now compounded. (Do you know why he was returned? Perhaps Biting? The Shelter should give you full disclosure on this as it can be helpful in determining a positive program for him). The biggest mistake that new Rescue Guardians make is "feeling sorry" for the Dog and "coddling" them. What Shelter Dogs and all Dogs need is clear Leadership so they can begin to relax and find their place. When we soothe Dogs who are anxious (whining in the crate, do you baby talk him and tell him it will all be okay?) we inadvertently are reinforcing that behavior (i.e. "Ahhh Baby.....it's OKAY to feel anxious and neurotic! Good Boy (pet pet stroke) this feeling you're having is how Mommy wants you to be!!"... Does that make sense? It is important to establish Leadership with all of your Dogs and the first step is teaching them a clear and basic form of communication in which to build upon. That starts with Basic Training and Obedience. They learn words that are associated with actions so when you direct them, they know what to do. They don't speak Human Language and like PreSchoolers, need to learn. Dogs are willing to do so because they truly want to please you. But you have to apply the effort and take the time to teach them or they will forever feel like they are living in a foreign country. The Basics are: SIT STAY DOWN OFF! (Down is BELLY ON FLOOR and OFF! is when you want all 4 feet on the ground!) OKAY! (release) and the most important COME! These are easy to teach if you are consistent and use positive rewards. Dogs love to learn these Basics as they not only view it as a Game, but they GET YOUR UNDIVIDED ATTENTION and "the right attention" to boot! When a Dog understands what you are requesting and when he responds correctly he receives positive feedback from his Leader, this begins to give him some inner confidence. The boundaries and expectations are clear and like a child, they begin to feel safe and not feel burdened by feeling the responsibility they THINK they have to assume to survive. I also see that it appears they are electric fenced? There can often be problems with this method of containment, but the top one is that people often think that freedom in a yard is good for a Dog. If you have a secure and well balanced Dog, a free space to roam is a good thing. If you have a Dog without any clear Leadership, he begins to develop his own sets of notions about who it is and power he thinks he holds. He will simply begin to ignore you. The most important question I have for you is, 'DO YOU WALK YOUR DOGS?" on Leash? One on One? WALKS are very powerful bonding times for you and your Dog. It is not about simply relieving themselves. A leash signals and communicates to the Dog that you are a Team out there. That you give him DIRECTION and he learns to respect that and enjoy it. Dogs also need to get out into the world OUTSIDE their yards which quickly become boring places to be. Same old smells, same old bush, same old view. They need to investigate and satisfy their senses. Continual confinement in yards leads to Aggression. Straight up and straight out. Terriers in particular NEED to be stimulated and engaged. While your Pug might be satisfied tootling around they yard (lower energy dogs) your Manchester requires something else completely. So the key consideration here for you overall is establishing LEADERSHIP with all of your Dogs. It's obvious that his relationship to the Crate is negative, but this can easily be turned around with some patience and consistent training. The comments posted here are good ones. You need to make his Crate a SAFE PLACE TO BE. A comforting place. His Den. Most Dogs love their Crates if they are acclimated properly. You start with small time periods when you ARE HOME. In the crate 3 minutes, reward if he's calm, then without fanfare, release him. On and off. Change up the times. NEVER RELEASE him when he is whining or anxious. You are just teaching him that behavior gets him results. Luring and rewarding are good. You must assume that he might have a history of Crate Abuse (being contained for way too long a time). So start there. When you are home and he is closed crated and quiet, walk by him and toss him a reward. (don't speak! that usually sets them off) Just walk around as natural as you can be and pay careful attention to him when he is calm and quiet and be quick about rewarding him. Put the other Dogs out of his sight as well. NEVER use the Crate as a form of punishment. EVER. (i.e. Bad Boy! for chewing that! In your Crate you go Naughty Boy!) If you do, you'll NEVER get him to be happy there. Terriers are smart, tenacious and stubborn, but once you capture their attention, they can be amazing students and wonderful friends. Do some research and READ some great books that help you understand what a good Leader is. Right now, he doesn't need a coddling Mommy, he needs a strong Leader that knows how to give him direction. I hope some of these ideas help and give you some insights as where to begin. Please have PATIENCE with him. Don't compare him to your other dogs. Sometimes it takes MONTHS up to a year until a SHELTER DOG can begin to trust and relax. Keep his world simple and safe. You really have to apply the effort and invest the time but the rewards are great. Don't give up on him. He really wants to be loved and the best expression of that for now is some Discipline and consistently clear communications! GOOD LUCK! We're rooting for you! Justine Saratoga Springs, NY http://web.mac.com/justineblaircarroll
    • Gold Top Dog

    I am in agreement with most of your advice but........I can't believe a dog trainer would utter the words "dogs want to please us".  Dogs want to learn how to get along in our confusing human world in order to insure their survival and access to resources. 

     

    • Puppy

    * I think I replied incorrectly via email, so will post it here.... JBC

     

    I stand corrected.  I really meant to say "connect with us" but of course, fast typing and no editing is never a good thing.  I would also add that they are really seeking "their place" in our confusing human world and that is where clear communications and direction can be helpful.
     
        I guess I've been using that concept lately as I've been relating with some of the people who rescued the Michael Vicks Pitbull Dogs.  That term is directly related with why Pitbulls can be taught to fight and aggression instilled.  Pleasing their guides is also another way of looking at your point of "insuring their survival".  That term is used to help the public understand more readily why these Dogs can be so aggressive.  Its a more direct word that gets to the point.  If we said, "These dogs want to learn how to "get along" in our confusing human world..." would simply not be as accurate in this context as the irony would be these dogs are NOT trying to get along with other humans or other dogs. 
        So I will reserve using the word, "Please" when speaking about other breeds.  Thanks for the feedback.  I will take more care when selecting the words and phrases I use.
     

    • Gold Top Dog

    It's no big deal, I don't know why I even posted that little statement.  Sorry, I seem to be having a bad day in the confusing world of work!  Thanks for being gracious instead of offended.

    • Gold Top Dog

    Justine Blair Carroll

    * I think I replied incorrectly via email, so will post it here.... JBC

     

    I stand corrected.  I really meant to say "connect with us" but of course, fast typing and no editing is never a good thing.  I would also add that they are really seeking "their place" in our confusing human world and that is where clear communications and direction can be helpful.
     
        I guess I've been using that concept lately as I've been relating with some of the people who rescued the Michael Vicks Pitbull Dogs.  That term is directly related with why Pitbulls can be taught to fight and aggression instilled.  Pleasing their guides is also another way of looking at your point of "insuring their survival".  That term is used to help the public understand more readily why these Dogs can be so aggressive.  Its a more direct word that gets to the point.  If we said, "These dogs want to learn how to "get along" in our confusing human world..." would simply not be as accurate in this context as the irony would be these dogs are NOT trying to get along with other humans or other dogs. 
        So I will reserve using the word, "Please" when speaking about other breeds.  Thanks for the feedback.  I will take more care when selecting the words and phrases I use.
     

     

     

    I think my mentor said it most succinctly: "Dogs do what works for them."  If a behavior, good or bad, gets the dog what he wants (in this case to make the human go away and leave him to his own devices under the bed), then the behavior will continue.  And, if the human chooses to try to extricate the dog physically, the dog may feel he has no choice but to increase the level of aggression that worked the first time to make her withdraw her hand.  Had it been me, I would have sprinkled a trail of chicken to get him out, rather than behave in a threatening way by sticking my hand in.  Next, I would make it impossible for him to guard that space.  Blocking his access to it would help, as would a newly instituted training program that would teach a cue for "come out from under there", such as "Rover, come!"  If a dog has a recall, you don't have to drag him out from anywhere.  (So, until the dog is trained, he isn't able to "practice" guarding until he's perfect at it and someone gets really hurt.) And, if there's tripe in the crate every once in a while, he won't mind going in quite as much, especially if the only time he has to go in is when you plan to leave him for 8 hours:-0

     

    • Bronze

    No matter where we are, my dog has no problems when I say come. But once he knows it's time for the crate, he could care less about that command when under the furniture. I've tried making the crate a happy place to prevent him from hiding, but he still hides. After 7 months of hiding with no biting, he suddenly had a lightbulb moment. "Haha if I bite you I don't have to go in the crate!"

    As for a different confinement area, he's a chewer. Bite repellant doesn't bother him and treat filled chew toys don't interest him at all. I'm just going to have to keep trying to make the crate his new safe place. Hopefully one of these days he'll get another lightbulb and we won't have to play hide and seek.

    • Bronze

    I tried the line last week. I'm able to get him out, but he does put up a fight. I thought maybe it would help re-establish that I'm the alpha dog. It seems as if he gets that I'm the alpha dog and listens to me very well. But when it's time for the crate, he thinks he's the alpha dog under that furniture.

    • Gold Top Dog

    If he knows the command come you should be able to lure him out with something good.  You dog dosen't like a peanut butter kong?  Most dogs love them.

    • Bronze

    Food, treats, chews..he still hates the crate. But I will keep trying to make it a happy safe place.   

    He knows come very well. However, no amount of food or treats will get him to come when he's under the furniture. And surprisingly human food doesn't even work.

    • Bronze

    I'm not sure how he made it to the first shelter. Seven months ago, he made it to the second shelter because he was found running around an apartment complex. This shelter tried to contact the owner using contact information from the first shelter's tattoo. No one claimed him so now he's with me.

    He does go on walks, car rides, plays in the backyard. He obeys all his commands, but never obeys come when he's hiding. Everything's good until he needs to go in the crate. I've had trouble getting him to think of it as a happy place. Never had trouble with biting. Why he just started this, who knows. Just when I think he gets that it's not so bad, I'll say "crate" he walks up to it, stops right when I think he's going to walk right in. He zips away to some hiding place, and then begins our game of hide and seek with the added bonus of biting. He never cares what type of goodies are in the crate. He just refuses to go in. Once in the crate, he sometimes won't even touch his treat filled chew toys.

    Hide and seek I can handle, but the biting not so much. Using all kinds of food to lure him out from under the furniture doesn't work, but i will keep trying. I'll continue with the crate training as well. Hopefully the hiding and biting will soon cease to exist and the crate will finally become his safe place.