Want to start a Puppy Class...

    • Gold Top Dog

    Want to start a Puppy Class...

    Ok, my town does not have any puppy classes available.  I wanted to try and get one going but wanted to see if anyone out there has any suggestions on what to do, what not to do, etc.  While I don't have years of experience in training, I'm a trainer in training, so to speak.  I plan to also enlist the advice of the trainers that I work with who run puppy classes of their own but they are an hour away.  I think puppy classes are a great idea for people and a chance to get to potential problem behaviors before they get bigger.

    Things to teach:
    -puppy socialization so puppies can learn bite inhibition and not be afraid of other dogs
    -discuss chewing and ways to redirect to a suitable object
    -discuss jumping and ways to "nip it in the bud" so to speak
    -potty/crate training
    -introduce basic sits and downs
    -introduce walking nicely on leash where puppy follows owner around with dangling leash
    -recall work where puppy is praised highly for coming to owner amidst the group

    Anything else?  I have a lot of logistics to work out, like where, etc but wanted to get some other's opinions on this.

    Thanks!
    • Gold Top Dog
    Congrats on your undertaking. 
     
    Here is what we teach in our puppy class.  It is 8 weeks long and fairly comprehensive.  One of the most important things is to offer plenty of question answer time during playtime.
     
    Week 1 - intro and playtime
    I separate the puppies and the owners.  One of my employees takes the pups off to a play area and I spend the next 2 hours lecturing the owners. 
     
    First I give them a hand out, with some info, and some blanks, and I ask them to fill them in as we go.  I find people listen better this way.
     
    Here is some of what we cover:
     
    house breaking, crate training, appropriate correction, rewarding good behavior, timing, consistency, games, toys, grooming, nutrition, eliminating problem behaviors such as jumping, barking, nipping, chewing, etc.  EXERCISE, socialization, life stages (fear periods etc.), dealing with shy pups, how consequences control behavior, using a secondary reinforcer, how training sessions should work at home, humanizing puppies (they are not babies)  luring, capturing behavior, ETC.
     
    Things to address with the owners:
    what to do in case of accident during class, what if your dog gets care sick, proper treats for training, policy for make up classes, avoiding flea problems, pre-class exercise, what to wear, what equipment for class,
     
    Week 2
    Look, sit, take it, loose leash walking, play time
     
    Week 3
    Down, sit stay,  (review) playtime
     
    Week 4
    down stay, come (review) playtime
     
    Week 5
    leave it, settle, wait (review) playtime
     
    Week 6
    go to place, stand, stand stay, (review) playtime
     
    Week 7
    No new info - We play "pass the puppy".  Everyone works in a big circle going over the commands with everyone Else's puppy.  Each person works with a different pup for about 5 minutes each.  We do this to get the pup comfortable with being handled by others, some owners are better at teaching somethings than others, and it teaches people to appreciate there puppy (and our job for that matter).
    This is my favorite week.  What a riot.  Then we have play time.
     
    Week 8
    Graduation.
    We have a little obedience challenge, and then a little party, where everybody signs up for there next set of classes.  This set of classes starts in 2 weeks.
     
    Hope this helps a little.  If you have any questions or need ideas, email me and I will forward them on to one of my puppy trainers.
    • Gold Top Dog
    Wow, that is a lot.  Do you have any suggestions for books to read?  or websites that might give me more info about specific things?  I'm currently reading "Coaching People to Train Their Dogs" which is a very good read.

    Thanks again!
    • Gold Top Dog
    Anne, might have some books, but I can't think of any off the top of my head that relate specifically to teaching in a class room setting.  It is a very different dynamic than one on one.  I'll respond to you email with other training class details, and post it on here as well.  I realize that after reading that back it wasn't all that clear.
    • Gold Top Dog
    Mic, I think it was pretty clear on what you teach, I'm just not sure about some of those items.  ;)  I think it's a great outline and a great place to start!  Now to just figure out the stuff I'm not sure I understand and then the logistics!
    • Gold Top Dog
    This is in response to an email I received to clarify this information.  sorry for the confusion, my mind was working faster than my fingers.
     
    ....how training sessions should work at home - I'm not sure I can formalize what
    this is in my mind... other than keep them short, upbeat, and successful
    .
     
    That is exactly what I mean.  Some owners will practice for hours and really frustrate themselves.
     
    how consequences control behavior - is this similar to the pup has an accident while you're away, you come home, get angry and the pup learns over time that you come home angry and so exhibits "guilt" behavior (which is actually the dog knowing your angry but not WHY)?

     
    Again, you are right.  This can also be reflected in other ways.  Such as, "when I jump I get a reaction. this is a reward. so I will keep jumping!"
     
    pre-class exercise - I would have thought they shouldn't exercise too much before just because they'll get lots in class?

     
    You got it...Some owners will be embarrassed by there puppy the first week, so they will exhaust them before class.  Then the puppy doesn't perform well.  I like nice rowdy puppies.  I encourage the puppies to act like dogs in class.
     
    The book I'm reading has some handouts in the back but I haven't got that far yet in the book.  I plan to reread it once I get all the way through.

     
    Have fun creating your own hand outs.  Mine have loads of humor.  Owners take themselves very seriously.  It is nice to bring some levity to the situation.
     
    Do you have any other suggestions for me?
     
     
    It is important to at least seem like you know what you are doing even from the beginning.  Owners come in very confused normally and at times, a little desperate, and you have to instill confidence in them.  If you are running around like a chicken with its head cut off...well...you get the idea.  Practice in the mirror...especially with your intro.  You want to make a good first impression.  Don't be afraid to say you don't know, and don't comment on things your don't understand.  Nothing aggravates me more than when my trainers tell a client something, and instead of getting from there head they pull it out of there @$$.
     
    There are loads of things to go over for teaching classes.  If you have specific questions let me know. 
     
    I've thought about trying to cooperate with a local training facility, but I'm not sure how to go about doing that....

     
    I am not sure what you mean....
     
    Let me know if you have any other specific questions...
    There is plenty to go over.
    • Gold Top Dog
    With regards to the cooperating with another trainer, I was thinking to see if a local trainer would be willing to host the class.  Maybe hire me part time to teach it?  Some thing like that.  I started an agility club already and thought about approaching this one place but I honestly don't know about their teaching style, so I should probably go through a class first.

    What would you say you shouldn't do in a puppy class?  For example, is there anything you have experienced over the years that you look back and go, that was a good lesson?
    • Gold Top Dog
    What great questions...
     
    First, do you only want to do puppies?  There is a local trainer around here that only does puppies and she does pretty well. She actually spoke to a local church (a big one) and they let her use a class room and the fenced in play ground every Saturday.  she holds like 6 classes every Saturday which is really pretty good.
     
    She went around to all the vets and explained what she was doing, and she offered it at a great price.  Something like $50 for 8 weeks.  She had no overhead at this point so she was doing OK. 
     
    I might suggest trying to set something up on your own similar to that.  The puppy lady around here did that for about 6 months and now she has a very cute little puppy facility.
     
    You can try and go through another facility, but you have to clearly explain what you bring to the table. 
     
    Are you going to lease the space from me in off peak hours?  Are you going to hold classes, I take the revenue, and you work for free?  Do you want to be an employee?  Why should I allow you to represent my facility?  Do you have the experience that I am looking for? 
     
    Just some things I might be thinking if approached.
     
    Things that I wish I had done differently over the years...now that is a good question...
     
    1) I wish I had been more direct with my clients from the start.  I am very direct now, and I may have short changed some clients over the years just because of a lack of confidence or I didn't want to offend.
     
    2) Don't play two many games in your classes.  Make things fun, but don't let things get to silly.
     
    3) Make graduation fun, and pressure free.  People will bail if they think it is going to be hard or embarrassing.
     
    4) Take notes after every class.  It is easy to remember all the dogs and clients at first, but after a few months you won't be able to remember who you told what.
     
    5) Start and finish on time from day one.  People will start to take advantage of this very quickly if you aren't careful.
     
    6) Every class is going have one owner that is a jack@$$.  Confront this person after class, and fix the problem.  If you lose them...good riddance.  It could cost you the whole class if you don't.
     
    7) Take charge of the puppies.  There will normally be at least one owner who doesn't want to put the dog down.  Every must follow your rules or excuse themselves from class. 
     
    8)  There are no refund for puppy class (unless th dog passes away).  It isn't your fault they didn't check there schedule...or any of the other lame excuses you will hear. 
     
    9) Keep the classes to about 6-8 puppies.  More can get out of control, and less may get boring.
     
    10)  Remember to ask lots of questions before you give advice. Make sure you CLEARLY understand the situation.
     
    11)  Don't make things to hard.  You want the dogs and there owners to succeed.
     
    I am sure there are loads more.  I'll try and post them as they come to mind. 
     
    Specific questions are a little easier to answer.
    • Gold Top Dog
    Those are all good, thank you.  I think you're right about taking charge and being direct.  I will have to practice that BEFORE I get annoyed.  I know that is a fault of mine, and I'm working on it.  ;)

    Well, for right now, there are 3 different facilities in town that offer obedience classes.  I'm doing this part time with a full time job, and I don't want to compete for obedience classes at this point.  Only one place teaches agility and only a beginner class at that, which is why I began the club.  I make no illusions about my experiences but state that I'm constantly learning, which I am.  I would love to do this full time, but right now, I need the money of a stable job.  But back to puppies, no other facility offers puppy classes and I've had people interested in agility with puppies too young for the Intro class but old enough to begin some basics like sit, down, attention, etc...  So I'm considering beginning that....

    I guess I see where I would be leaving the owners dangling after the class is over... at 6 months, they could join the Intro class which deals with basic handling but it doesn't focus on sit, down, etc except in relation to Tables and start lines....
    • Gold Top Dog
    I didn't mean to imply that you would be leaving them hanging at the end.  Most of are puppy owners could pass the CGC at the end of our classes.  A lot of the time puppy classes are all people need. 

    My only concern about joining a training facility is that you are going to have to do things the facility owners way.  If you are good with that...then perfect.  I always had a hard time with that though. 

    I always new I could run things better so I didn't worry about the competition. Plus, there aren't any puppy classes where you are at right now...so not much competition. 

    I really think the easiest thing to do is to talk to a rec center or church, and ask to use a room for 6-8 weeks on Saturdays.  Then start hitting the local vets, groomer, dog parks, rescues, other training facility's, etc.  Hand out fliers about your local upcoming puppy class.  Something very simple.
    [align=center] [align=center] [align=center] [align=center]Puppy Class[align=center] [align=center]Ages: 10wks to 5 months[align=center]Starts April 1st and runs through May 20th[align=center]Every Saturday from 10:00-11:30[align=center] [align=center]We will cover .....[align=center] [align=center]$50 per dog.[align=center] [align=center]Can't wait to see you there.[align=center] [align=center]Call 555-5555 for your reservation.[align=center]Address: 333 church St.[align=center] [align=left]Drum up 8 little dogs over the next three weeks and start your class.  Heck depending on the number of calls you get you may be able to start two.  I remember when I started training the first week I signed up 28 dogs at $100 a piece.  It was great fun.  I bet you could get this accomplished in just a few hours a week between now and the first.[align=left] 
    • Puppy
    Hello there :)

    Mic's outline is great. Another way to look at it is to see what many schools and trainers do: they essentially do the CGC program, just in an introductory and less serious manner (if you look through the CGC requirements and many of the things Mic suggests, you will notice many similarities there also). So one can check out the AKC's CGC requirements, and use those as a guideline.

    The real point of adding my two cents, however, is a different one. In my personal experience it is equally important to provide plenty of 'open time' for questions, as already suggested, but I find it also highly beneficial to also teach people how to play with their dogs. Many dog owners do not seem to know what games to play, what games not to play, what to allow when playing, what not to allow, and so forth. Yes, many people do not understand how potent games and play are for the bonding experience, how potent a drive and reward tool it is, and how much impulse control and basic training objectives can be established via proper play. A dog and an owner who play with one another in a cooperative fashion will have a deeper and more trusting relationship, with many basic obedience objectives either learned or more thoroughly absorbed by the dog in a playful manner.


    Good luck with your class :)

    May I ask where - in what state - your little town is? :)
    • Gold Top Dog
    We teach most of the basics in puppy class, including recalls and "leave it".  We also do some work on prevention of food aggression.
    The majority of questions are always on: housebreaking, nipping, jumping up, pulling on leash, and come when called.  Exercise and supervision are the two main things I focus on for prevention.
    Do't be afraid to start with VERY young puppies.  Explain the risk of Parvo, but don't wait until 4 mos. to train.  More dogs are put down each year for behavioral issues than for disease.
    • Gold Top Dog
    Mic wants books for you, so here are my suggestions:
    "Teaching Clicker Classes - An Instructor's Guide for Using Reinforcement in Dog Training" by Deb Jones.  This one is useful whether you use a clicker or just a bridge word - the principles are the same and it's in a week by week format.
    "Coaching People to Train Their Dogs" by Terry Ryan
    "The Toolbox for Remodeling Your Problem Dog" by Terry Ryan
    [linkhttp://www.clickersolutions.com]www.clickersolutions.com[/link] has some good articles online
     
    • Gold Top Dog
    polymatheia, I live in Bloomington, Indiana.  So big town attitude but small town in size.  Kind of.  With IU, we get lots of benefits of a big town in diversity but we do have a small town feel in the summer months.  ;)

    Anne, thanks for the books.  I actually am reading Coaching People.. by Terry Ryan right now, so I will check out the others as well.

    Ok so next question is this, what kinds of shots do you recommend for puppies?  and at what ages do they need them?  It's been a few years since I've had a puppy to go through those specifics.  And you let the puppies interact with each other right? ie-playtime?

    Thanks everyone, these are great suggestions!  I really appreciate all the info.
    • Gold Top Dog
    Hey,
    I forgot we had talked before.  I have a lot of connections in Btown.  

    This would be a super easy place to start a puppy class.  I would focus my marketing on the shelters and vets, and try and wrangle the students.  A lot of the vets a very young (this is a good thing) and aggressively promote puppy training.  Show them you can beat Petsmart on price point and they will refer you to there clients.  Anything to get the students in classes!  So many students get puppy's (almost all rescue them), and then they can't handle them as they get older.  You are going to win this market over on price point. 

    MAKE SURE YOU WAIT UNTIL AFTER SPRING BREAK!  Students aren't going to spend a dime before it.

    The nearest puppy class in your area is going to be at the Petsmart.  CCT may offer some...I can't remember.  I still think they're training pretty traditionally.

    As far as vaccines are concerned - DHLPP, and I would consult with a vet on the timing.  This is a hotly debated topic.  I normally expect that they have just had them, I don't involve myself with the timing of the shots.  I leave it up to each owners individual vet.