spiritdogs
Posted : 5/22/2007 6:29:18 AM
ORIGINAL: buster the show dog
ORIGINAL: spiritdogs
mudpuppy's recent posts are so cogent here, that I need not add to them....
Well, you could answer some of the questions that I asked in response to Mudpuppy's interesting thought provoking posts. Or not.
ORIGINAL: spiritdogs
....... except to say that I wish you all would find out how pleasant it can be to work with an operant dog. At least then, you would have something to compare. BTW, those of you who are still using punishment and clickers should listen to Kathy Sdao's points about "poisoning a cue". (From her seminar, "Know Way, Know How: The Art and Science of Clicker Training", which you can get on video at Tawzer Dog Videos, I believe)
And you know that I haven't worked with an operant dog because....? Your assumption seems to be that if one hasn't 100 % drunk the R+ only kool-aide that that can only be the result of ignorance/lack of experience. I've worked with some delightful operant dogs. I've also worked with some ill-mannered, disrespectful, fearful, neurotic operant dogs. The fearfulness and neuroses may be genetically based, and the ill manners and disrespectful attitude may be the result of poor skill in using R+. But, I've found in my experience, that some operant dogs, for whatever reason, learn all kinds of fun stuff to do to receive rewards, but don't learn not to perform self-rewarding but undesireable behaviors. They learn to sit very nicely, but they don't learn not to jump up first. They learn that heeling attentively earns them rewards, but then again, sniffing the ground is pretty rewarding too, so they choose whichever behavior seems most likely to be most rewarding at that instant. They learn that standing at the door earns them a reward, but then again, that's not nearly as rewarding as chasing the squirrel across the street that chatters just as the door is opened. Certain behaviors WILL have undesired consequences. Those consequences can be that we say "no" sharply, that we poke them, that we tighten the leash enough to cause the chain in the martingale collar to slide, or they can be that the dog knocks someone off her feet or ends up smushed on the road or the dog's freedom is more restricted than it would otherwise have to be in order to preserve safety. Our choice.
Oh, and I have read quite a bit about poisoned cues as well. In return, perhaps you could take a peek at Brookcove's interesting posts about training herding dogs over in "working dogs-cross over" thread in the "everything else" section.
I wish you all would find out how absolutely thrilling it can be to work with a talented herding dog that has inevitably experienced some aversives during his training. At least then, you would have something to compare.
buster, I think that your post was just a tad more sarcastic than it needed to be. Since you don't have the attitude about mudpuppy that you seem to have about me, I think you would probably be more openminded to the material if it were not me posting.
What I will say is that most of the time, when a dog finds something extremely self-rewarding, extinction alone does not work. But that is
not equivalent to saying that you then automatically need an aversive to prevent the unwanted behavior. The dog is the one who decides what is reinforcing. So, what's necessary is to find something the dog finds
more reinforcing, or at least
just as reinforcing as the activity you want to eliminate. People argue here all the time that you can't find something as stimulating as herding sheep or cattle. But, for example, we have herding dogs who will find a frisbee very rewarding and can be taught not to chase cars, kids, etc. by using that as the reward for "leave it" "come". And, we have folks who use the sheep as the reward for the dog obeying "that'll do" - just as one might teach a dog to sit and wait before going out a door - the desired activity is the reward for obedience. And, we certainly can use sheep as a reward for not chasing horses. If a Charley Bear treat is the most interesting thing in the environment, most dogs will work for that. But, if not, you need to up the ante on the reinforcers, which could mean anything from tennis balls to filet mignon. The key is to start small and make an orderly progression upward. So, dog leaves a Cheerio, gets a Charley Bear. Dog leaves the Charley Bear, gets a Snausage (not in my house LOL), dog leaves the Snausage, gets real turkey. Dog leaves turkey, gets the f-r-i-s-b-e-e!!!!!!! And, if you throw in an occasional high value reinforcer, that tends to increase the value of the less important reinforcers.
With regard to "leave it" for example, what the dog is learning with this kind of training is that the human always has something better than what he just left. "Leave it" "Come" becomes rather automatic. So, voila, if you have trained this properly from the start, you now have a dog that you can call off a flying bird, a cat, or other forbidden fruit. Only after the entire course of training, in a controlled, then ever more distracting environment, would I consider using an aversive. And, by then, at least you have a dog that is not going to totally shut down from the use of that aversive because he's so used to being reinforced and working by offering behavior, that one aversive is balanced by 100's of positives. Starting with aversives shuts down the dog because he is faced with minimal positives and more negatives, so it becomes risky to move.