I sometimes wish she was a little more concerned with her consequences than she is.
You CAN have both worlds. You can have a dog that has some impulse control, and also feels free to try something new.
Just as an example (
oh, there she goes again, somebody stop her): Training working dogs isn't all goodness and light and tidbits when they are right - but the dogs are motivated, happy, and enthusiastic about work. It's just really, really hard to develop that balance within a consistent approach - and you don't meet the challenges in everyday life that a working dog does. No lives are lost if Fluffy is pulling on the leash (though my MIL ended up in hosp for over a week when her dog knocked her down on a walk)
But if my dog goes right instead of left and lets the ram get to my kids - well, let's just say we aren't going to wait for that behavior to extinguish on its own. Plus I can't set things up all the time to avoid triggers or desensitize slowly. Sometimes I do have to use flooding, for instance - there's no other way to get a dog through some facets of work training - they've got to learn to deal with stress. If they have learned they can just resort to random behaviors whenever they want, they will do it at the moments of greatest pressure. Pressure meaning the stock are being difficult, or they are working somewhere difficult like heavy brush or in a large area or maneuvering over a narrow birm.
But as I say it's better that most owners of pets go towards the positive side of things because that balance is difficult to strike. I'd say offhand - this is my instinct - if you are dealing with behaviors that are deeply reinforcing in themselves, relating to the breed function or the "kill it/eat it/mount it/run from it" part of the brain - you can apply corrections - fair and clear ones - without developing a habitual nervousness or fear in your dog.
I've seen my mentor use a technique that would make Shining Path (all R+) trainers faint dead away - on fearful dogs. I can just imagine what it would look like on TV, and how it would turn into terrible abuse, because it is 100% timing and reading the dog. I've seen it many times and still have trouble following it, much less emulating it. But his whole philosophy is illustrated in this one technique, if you know what you are looking for.
I'm sure you are just dying of curiosity. But for anyone that is still with me -
don't try this at home. [

]
The point is to get the dog to get to the point where a very quiet name call will break concentration, and a sharp name call will stop
anything. Remember, this is stock work, so
anything can include some very dangerous things like running 1000 pound calves over the top of you, allowing an aggresive ram to escape, or slamming pregnant ewes into a gate.
Jack steps away from the dog, which is on leash. This is the beginning - the dog can either come with him or not. The natural inclination of a dog is to go with a person. A fearful dog will try to get away immediately. Jack is not facing the dog - he's making himself as neutral as possible. He calls the dog's name, very quietly - "Bonnie!" If the dog doesn't respond, she gets a leash jerk, followed by Jack stepping away again and repeating "Bonnie!" again very quietly. This sequence happens so fast it almost seems to come simultaneously. The second his leash jerk gets a head turn, ear flick, or any other appeasement type gesture, he unclips the lead and tosses it. Now it will be the name used sharp and soft alternately, with a gentle coax in the middle to let the dog know she's on the right track. So, ear flick, "Bonnie!", the dog starts to come, gets "Boooonnieee", then panics and hears "BONNIE!", turns, hears "Bonnie!" comes a bit closer, hears, "Boooonnnnieee", stops, turns away, hears "BON-nie!", turns back, hears "Bonnie!", comes to his side, "Booooonnnieee, good lass, Booonnniee, that's a lassie" but then makes a break for it, hears "BONNIE, Bonnie, Boooonnnnnieee, that's a lass." And so it goes on - sometimes he has to regress to the leash for a couple reps (extinguishment burst?) - but it never takes longer than a minute or two.
When he's done, the dog will happily and calmly walk offleash with him. I know a happy dog when I see it - I've rehabbed terrified absued dogs for ten years and he can accomplish in two minutes what it takes me months to gain. The fear is still there, but just as we are trying to teach the dog through desensitization and positive methods - she has gained a way to deal with her fear and the experience that she can think through her fear and trust Jack, at least. I believe this is classic flooding? But in his hands it looks and sounds like a sonata with accompanying ballet - there's a moment of "YIKES!" then even people who are dubious, start to fall under the spell of his voice, body position, and the changes in the dog's behavior.
Now he can take that dog and it has learned, somehow, through that symphony of communication, that he wants her to try, but that he'll be there to tell her if something is wrong - and it won't kill her to find out, that's the important thing. I've seen "strictly positive" trained dogs started on sheep and the problem is that when they have to take direction, they start acting like beaten dogs, looking for mommy, trying to get out, attacking the intructor - because they've never learned that "No" just means "Try something else", not the end of the world and
they stop thinking. Dogs that have learned Jack's lesson approach the stock with confidence, knowing he's there to help do it right. I've moved stock under his direction - no commands, just the flow of corrections to let me know when I'm wrong - and I started out nervous but quickly felt more and more confident - it was a real eye opener.
What I'm trying to get at, is, that a few corrections doth not a shutdown dog make. Not always. But it's not a good foundation for training pet dogs -
corrections should be considered a specialized tool, like the prong collar Glenda mentioned.