Dog Stressed by Training

Hello there []

Now while it is not easy to diagnose what exactly the problem is from that scant information, why not change some things around a bit? For instance, why don't you do something else instead of trying to start training right away? If you have the feeling the dog is stressed in some shape or form, why not help him loosen up? You could take a nice little walk with him around the area first, play little games with lots of treats just for doing silly things, and so forth. Then, while doing those activities he likes or participates in (whichever they might be; if he is truely stressed he might not want to play either, for instance - but even a stressed dog normally is up for a run around the block, and thats a great outlet for stress) you fluently start mixing in some obedience things (say, suddenly in the course of a little chase-the-rope game, you ask for a sit). Then some more play, then a few obedience commands in a row. He will not even notice he gets trained! If your impression is correct and he is stressed (maybe by his environment or whatnot), that should help. Also make sure that you interrupt the obedience sessions every now and then for more fun and play.

Feel free to ask/explain more in detail if needed. Good luck. []

Thank you, Poly.  Those are some good ideas.  I am still learning how to navigate this forum, and hope you find this reply!  I realize I didn't give a lot of information.  I'm frustrated by a teacher who does not give opportunity for questions.  I feel as if I had someone who could just watch what I do, they could correct me.  I'm sure it's me, rather than him.  I will take your advice and I appreciate it!

A forum can be a bit confusing at first. You will get used to it quick. Try checking out the 'My Profile' section. There you can set your preferences, so for instance how you want to 'see' the posts and topics here. For instance, you can see them listed by headers, where then you have to click on each post seperately to read it. Alternatively, you can set it so that you see all posts in full length (to a given topic) with one click. Try aroud, and check out what you like best. []

I am glad I could help. About your trainer: In my view, a trainer or a course that does not allow for lots of questions, is not worth the money and time you spend on it. You might try finding someone more appropriate in your area, maybe for a future course. There are people from all over the US here, so if you state the general area where you are from, there might be someone who actually knows resources somewhere in your state or city.

Feel free to ask whatever you feel like on this forum. The vast majority of participants are glad to help, and often there develop interesting exchanges of opinion while a question is answered by different forum members.

Good luck []

Try reenforcing eye contact outside of formal training.  Two ideas that are quick to implement and maintain and usually help establish eye contact quickly.  Name game.  Place stashes of small treats in your pockets and in small out of reach containers in places you and your dog are together.  Any time you notice him looking at you, praise and treat.  In the beginning you may need to treat when he is looking toward you or in your direction, then slowly shape it so the treats only occur when his eyes are on you.  If you take the treat to your eyes before you feed him, that will draw his gaze up.  The second idea is the name game.  Take 5 REALLY good people type food in small pieces.  Go to a controlled area (some where the dog has limited distance from you) say your dogs name in an excited high pitched voice.  When he looks at you, pour on the verbal praise, urge him to you and treat.  Wait until he wanders away (dont be looking at him after he has consumed the treat); and repeat.  When the name game is over, obviously change the activity.
 
Two other ideas,  start going some new places.  Try the strip mall areas in front of stores and pet food/supply stores.  Dont expect training to be as good as home, just use those places for exposure.  Keep the times short and sweet until his behavior appears more relaxed.

What is your training method? Is there a reason for the dog to be stressed? Are you training compulsively or do you use positive reinfrocement? Is the dog fearful of things? Do you get mad when the dog is unsuccessful?
 
Assuming the dog is stressed, you want to find the reason - if it is compulsive training - change to positive reinforcement training. If you can't find an apparent reason, go back to basics and start the training with highly reinforcing treats in the kitchen area of your house  where the dog probably feels good.
 
Keep the sessions very short - 2 minutes - not more. Maybe even less, ask for one small behavior - treat benevolently, and play for several minutes. Then try again - just one more behavior and a lot of reinforcement,
 
Good luck.

You can find some good training articles at [linkhttp://www.clickersolutions.com]www.clickersolutions.com[/link].
Check out the videos at [linkhttp://www.clickertrainusa.com]www.clickertrainusa.com[/link], and if you want to try clicker training, and are in the US, find one at [linkhttp://www.clickertraining.com]www.clickertraining.com[/link].
Rewards can be anything your dog will work for - for most dogs, it's food, but some dogs prefer tennis balls, squeaky toys, or rope tugs.

P.S. It helps to teach the dog the commands in a non-distracting environment, then gradually add distractions.  Many people assume the dog knows the commands, but he may not realize that "sit" means "sit" whether you are in the living room or the back yard.  Dogs don't generalize very well, they learn in pictures, so it's up to us to teach them the same behavior in lots of locations to help them figure that out.

I hope this reply goes through to all of you who have helped with your good ideas.  I am going to stop formal training, and just incorporate some work into non-official training sessions.  In other words, I think Bentley thinks when we head into the driveway, uh-oh, here come some lessons.  Instead, I'll just throw in some "sits" and some "watch mes" at other times.  I've been kind of doing this already, and it helps. 
 
The problem is I think the teacher expects more of him than I need him to give.  He is learning to sit, and to come when I call him, but he is not doing some of the drills well where, for example, you put the dog in a down and try to walk around him.  He knows he is supposed to watch me, so he swivels around to follow me.  I'm actually asking him to go against what I've been teaching him with that particular drill, I believe.  I think it confuses him.
 
Another thing he doesn't understand is to "watch me" when we are walking on heel.  He learned "watch me" when sitting facing me, and I think it confuses him to try and watch me when we are in motion.  He thinks he is supposed to sit to watch me.  At least, that's what I think he thinks!  And that's why I think training is stressing him; he's just not sure what to do.
 
Thanks to all of you for your help and good ideas!

IMHO you have to do what is comfortable for you and your dog...  and if that is not exactly what is done in class, that is fine too!  It makes even more sense now that you say the pup is confused - he is probably totally stressed out that he is not able to figure out what you want from him [8|]   
 
If there are things you want to teach and are having trouble I would definitely just ask on idog...  there are great trainers here who can probably help you think of ways that will work and not stress the pooch...  but otherwise, incorporating those comands you want to enforce and he knows into playful and not stressful situations and then, only when they are really solid, increasing the distractions little by little, will probbly work wonders! 

It's very hard, at first, for a dog to stay while you disappear, which is what happens when you walk around behind him.  Try holding a piece of food on his nose while you walk around behind, simultaneously giving your "stay" cue.  He will learn that "stay" is what you expect, even if you are not in his visual field.  Then, try it without the food on his nose, but reward right away if he stays.  Next, graduate to waiting a few seconds before he gets rewarded, etc.
Wheatens are more distractable than some other breeds, so solidify your commands indoors before taking him outside and adding distractions.  Make sure he really understands each command before you attempt to "take it on the road".  Also, instead of setting aside a huge chunk of time for training, try incorporating it into daily life.  For example, if he wants to go outside, ask him to "down" first.  If you are going to wipe off the kitchen counter, ask him to "stay" while you do that.  I keep Cheerios in little cups all over the house, so I can reach up and get one if I want to "catch" my dog doing something good.  How many of us reward our dogs when they are lying quietly by our feet, but reprimand them for being rambunctious?