I HAVE A SERIUOS PROBLEM WITH MY 2 MONTH OLD PUPS!

double post

Espencer, just a point of clarification to your post.  After the OP stated the technique is working and is hoping the technique continues to work, people did not say one of them needs to be returned or eat in different rooms.  The posts were addressing the breeder and the age of the pups. 

You know that I bring in fosters into my home and I do not know anything about their behavior.  When the situation is a new dog (that I do not know) and feeding, I take precautions and assume food aggression, especially in an emaciated dog.  When aggression is a known fact, it is wise to be cautious.  I remember in a recent post of yours and you were with a dog that has aggression issue.  Did you not take the precaution of grabbing a garbage can lid and use it as a shield against your torso?  It turned out you did not need it but you still took a precaution.   

The end result is that we do get to the same place and the dogs have a pleasant meal experience together.  I know I make the meal experience for my dogs special by the fact that I am able to leave an open 40lbs bag of dog food in the corner of the kitchen.  The dogs can get at it anytime but do not touch it.  I think its all about the ambience that I set up.

if the OP feeds them in different rooms nothing is going to change,

That is the direct opposite of my experience.

By feeding the dogs seperately the dogs learn to trust that they will be fed and that they don't have to fight for their food.  By feeding them seperately I helped to transform a food aggressive bitch into one that would sit politely in a stay and wait until she was released before she ate.  And even when high value treats were doled out, she waited her turn because she KNEW that she'd get her share.

So my personal experience in this matter within my household is that seperating dogs while they eat is particularly advantageous to overcoming resource guarding or food aggression.

The OP already said that the technique is working, that there is some progress so i dont understand why there is still people saying that one of them needs to be returned, some others still say that they need to eat in different rooms

 
 
they are two months old and had a spat over eating out of the same dish. That's a minor, easily overcome problem. Most people don't begin to experience serious problems with co-raised littermates until they hit adolescence or adulthood.  That's when the fights for dominance start, that's when the owner realizes the dogs couldn't care less about humans, that's when the difficulty of training becomes apparent, that's when you realize it's practically impossible to socialize two puppies at once.
I think these two dogs would be more likely to have excellent futures if one were placed in a different home.

ORIGINAL: Xerxes


That is the direct opposite of my experience.

By feeding the dogs seperately the dogs learn to trust that they will be fed and that they don't have to fight for their food.  By feeding them seperately I helped to transform a food aggressive bitch into one that would sit politely in a stay and wait until she was released before she ate.  And even when high value treats were doled out, she waited her turn because she KNEW that she'd get her share.

So my personal experience in this matter within my household is that seperating dogs while they eat is particularly advantageous to overcoming resource guarding or food aggression.

 
Have you feed them together again?
 

ORIGINAL: mudpuppy

I think these two dogs would be more likely to have excellent futures if one were placed in a different home.

 
You are waisting your time, the OP said already that's not going to happen

Have you feed them together again?

Sure have, whenever I'm at shows or LC events.  They ate about 6 feet apart with no problems, with little supervision.  At home they ate seperately in different rooms. 

Why is the simplest answer not good enough?  You're over thinking the question.  If these weren't puppies but full grown 100+ pound dogs your answer wouldn't be the same thing, or would it?  Most of the time the simplest answer is the best. 

Since you're into the whole pack dynamics of eating, what happens if a wolf seperates a leg from a carcass?  Usually he takes it and walks 30, 40 or 50 feet away to eat.  Using your analysis that means he's creating his own pack.  Does that make sense to you?

ORIGINAL: mudpuppy

The OP already said that the technique is working, that there is some progress so i dont understand why there is still people saying that one of them needs to be returned, some others still say that they need to eat in different rooms

they are two months old and had a spat over eating out of the same dish. That's a minor, easily overcome problem. Most people don't begin to experience serious problems with co-raised littermates until they hit adolescence or adulthood.  That's when the fights for dominance start, that's when the owner realizes the dogs couldn't care less about humans, that's when the difficulty of training becomes apparent, that's when you realize it's practically impossible to socialize two puppies at once.
I think these two dogs would be more likely to have excellent futures if one were placed in a different home.

 
You said it, it was a puppy spat.  People don't realize what it means to raise two puppies; littermates or not.  I experienced it with the exact same age Pug and Swissy who we brought home within a week apart at 8 weeks old.   My behaviorist corrected me immediately.  Both dogs were given individual lives although they are family members.
 
Espencer makes it sound too easy and to simplistic.  While the others on here are trying to address with the OP the overall picture and not just a puppy spat.  It is important that although standing between puppies and not allowing a tiff did work and may continue to work for now that the OP needs to put some real training in place on an” individual”  level if she is going to keep two pups.  Forget the puppy tiff over food that is only the beginning of a multitude of possible issues that are going to arise as you raise too pups.  It#%92s no different than a human mother raising twin babies – one is hard enough.  Individualization is key for the human groups as well as the canine socialization.
 
OP, if you really want to make it work and try to eliminate issues before they start you need to be serious about training.  If you can afford classes and a trainers help that would be best.  If not read some books and understand what you can to help you raise independent, responsive and well behaved adult dogs.   For example, your pups are at the optimum age for socializing and socializing is key at this age, it#%92s a small window and shouldn#%92t be missed – did you know that?  Exercise, how are you going to exercise your pups and how much?   Google and read on NILIF and use it!  Its easy and will make a world of difference in how your dogs will view you as there leader.  Are you using crates?  You will wish you had if you are not now for many different things, confinement, chewing, potty training etc.  Take heed to some of Spiritdogs advice and work these dogs separately when you can – she is a trainer giving you free and solid advice.  .   You are in for A LOT of work.
 

This "breeder" should be hogtied, hamstrung, hung, shot and then reported. I'm guessing that as soon as the pups were weaned she started pushing them out the door. I can't say here what I'm thinking. It ain't purty

 
But I read your mind and the language was excuisitely colorful.[sm=clapping%20hands%20smiley.gif]

ORIGINAL: Xerxes

Why is the simplest answer not good enough?  You're over thinking the question.  If these weren't puppies but full grown 100+ pound dogs your answer wouldn't be the same thing, or would it?  Most of the time the simplest answer is the best. 

Exactly, my answer was the more simple one and everybody argues about it, and yes it would be the same answer if they are full grown, i guess the one overthinking here is you
 

ORIGINAL: Xerxes

Since you're into the whole pack dynamics of eating, what happens if a wolf seperates a leg from a carcass?  Usually he takes it and walks 30, 40 or 50 feet away to eat.  Using your analysis that means he's creating his own pack.  Does that make sense to you?

 
Another example of overthinking, unless the wolf does that every single time they eat  then that would be a indicator that he does not relate himself really well with the pack, he has issues about eating next to the pack members, if is once or twice is because he got lucky with a big chunk and thats fine (not everyday like some posters want the OP to act)

unless the wolf does that every single time they eat then that would be a indicator that he does not relate himself really well with the pack, he has issues about eating next to the pack members,

 
During good weather my dogs are given bones to enjoy outside. The first thing they do is head off in different directions. Does this mean they have unaddressed issues in relating to each other? Funny, they are all well into middle age and have never had a fight. I always assumed that they just wanted to enjoy their treasures in peace.

Exactly, my answer was the more simple one and everybody argues about it, and yes it would be the same answer if they are full grown, i guess the one overthinking here is you

Standing between two dogs and guarding one from the other is simpler than either feeding them in their crates or in seperate rooms where human doesn't have to stand guard?  Hmmmm I usually use the time when the dogs are eating to do something else-like perhaps clean up a bit.  But that's because I'm really a pack leader, I don't have to stand guard.[]

Another example of overthinking, unless the wolf does that every single time they eat  then that would be a indicator that he does not relate himself really well with the pack, he has issues about eating next to the pack members, if is once or twice is because he got lucky with a big chunk and thats fine (not everyday like some posters want the OP to act)

No it's an indicator that he's getting his food and taking it away from the feeding melee.

I notice you didn't have any response to my answer to your question.  Is that because it's in direct opposition to your philosophy? 

The common way of feeding in multiple dog households is to seperate.  This gives the dog it's own space and it's own comfort zone.  What you suggest may work in some cases, but it also may reinforce the idea that "human needs to protect you while you're eating my food in your bowl."  Since you don't have  food aggressive dogs in your household you can't see this.  I have seen FA dogs, including one FA and Toy Aggressive Dobie bitch.  The method you suggested created more FA...because the bitch was done eating before her packmate, a 140lb Dane mix.  There were never any fights, but my friend and I found that feeding them in seperate rooms prevented all the FA.    You method might work, but sooner or later it will probably backfire-especially with littermates.  Feeding in seperate rooms/crates accomplishes much more than just preventing FA.

ORIGINAL: Stacita

unless the wolf does that every single time they eat then that would be a indicator that he does not relate himself really well with the pack, he has issues about eating next to the pack members,

During good weather my dogs are given bones to enjoy outside. The first thing they do is head off in different directions. Does this mean they have unaddressed issues in relating to each other? Funny, they are all well into middle age and have never had a fight. I always assumed that they just wanted to enjoy their treasures in peace.

OMG your pack is disintegrating right in your own backyard![]

Did I misread the suggestion to stand BETWEEN two 100 lb dogs one of whom is food agressive?  Holy cow, I've already got enough scars from being in the wrong place at the wrong time.....

[size=3][font="times new roman"]Luvmyswissy, you are right.  I should have stayed on topic and related my actual experience.  I was in the same situation as the OP when I brought in 2 strong giant breed female littermates into my home.  I think I did everything right in bringing these two up.  I did not have a dog forum to go to and I did not have a professional trainer to advice me of any pitfalls in this setup.  I used my COMMON SENSE.  As puppies, the two lived in the kitchen and in separate open top crates (one crate taken apart).  They would start in one and when they fell asleep I would move one to the other crate.  I did this because they looked uncomfortable.  For the first few nights, I slept with them on the floor.  I don't remember feeding time being an issue because I probably had them eat separately with me in between and on the floor.  I did this to make sure that each would eat their own portion and one would not eat more than the other if they shared.  So I prevented puppy tiffs and aggression.  Since I had a large breed, it was common sense that they had to be trained.  One of the pups was deaf so they would have separate training.  One went to obedience and agility while the other was trained at home with me being instructed by a professional trainer.   So each of the puppies had a separate life and a separate relationship with me, even if it was not apparent to me.  It all worked out and it was not A LOT of work having them in my home.  It was A LOT work taking care of the medical needs.  Two Puppies together constantly puppy play and injuries happen. 
 
See it was all pretty simple and not that complicated or dire.  [/size][/font]

ORIGINAL: glenmar

Did I misread the suggestion to stand BETWEEN two 100 lb dogs one of whom is food agressive?  Holy cow, I've already got enough scars from being in the wrong place at the wrong time.....

 
Glenmar, can we have respect for the OP?