Different dogs "concentrate" differently -- some dogs have a very fleeting attention span (trust me -- housetraining a herding dog can be a whole different thing for this exact reason -- they notice **Everything**).
However -- my bet is, she's stubborn and when you are trying to keep her 'on task' she figures "Ok -- I'll just finish INSIDE" because she wants to do what she wants to do at the moment.
She is completely not 'getting it' that you *ONLY* go outside and not in. As far as she's concerned she knows you prefer her to go outside, but as long as she doesn't do it **in front of you** inside she gets away with it.
I won't let a dog dictate to me how long to give it outside. I want them to associate "going out" with elmination. Not play. So I take it to that 'spot' (where I may already have an assortment of towels where I have *moved* their waste) and I give them about a minute or two tops. I have a trigger word "You better poop!" (or pee or whatever I figure they need to do now). But if it's not accomplished fast, back inside we go.
But then it's MY challenge. I watch that dog like a hawk. Often keeping a towel tucked in my belt to literally SCOOP the dog up and race outside.
Yes, this is a royal p.i.t.a. -- because until you get it thru their heads you do NOT under ****any**** circumstances want them to elminate in the house -- they're on a mission to elude you or do it while you're distracted behind your back.
But you have to be so on this constantly (and this can go on for weeks -- because once you figure they "got it" and you diminish your attention back they'll go in the game!!). See she's successfully done this for years. It's the behavior she'll revert to in an 'emergency' (her mind's concept of "I gotta go"). Because she's never truly gotten the whole concept that this is never ever acceptable behavior.
See a dog so identifies with their waste -- it literally defines them (and I'm not going to get into a shouting match with anyone here -- you can believe dogs understand some basic English or not, but I'm describing MY method here and I've re-trained a ton of really dysfunctional dogs.)
So all it takes is some human having a hissy fit in front of them for them to decide then and there no matter what else happens they're never gonna go "in front of them" there and then. And it seems she's smart enough that she knows if she goes in front of you OUTSIDE that's a good thing. But Inside?? Nope -- I won't go in front of them!! So SHE thinks it's fine as long as she eludes you.
This is why *I* say when they screw up, you go put them up where they can NOT watch you clear up the mess. Somehow it is reinforcing to them to see you handle their waste (remember -- this defines them in dog terms -- and I think it's as 'good' to them as peeing on a tree -- when you handle their waste in front of them OH GOOD -- SHE'S MINE now!!)
But once you get that waste outside and laid down boldly on that paper -- go back in and clean that spot incredibly well (you wont' smell a thing but they can). *THEN* you go get her on leash and lead her to the 'scene of the crime'.
You don't yell. This is training. "Not here -- this is MOM'S" and you simply proceed at a fast pace OUTside to that paper.
Let her sniff it -- 'Yes - that IS yours -- I want it HERE!"
I have a feeling you'll have a watershed moment and you'll actually see it in her eyes when she 'gets it'. Because it will make an impression that you are MOVING her waste. Moving it to a specific spot. You're standing there -- you want MORE there.
But just standing in one spot outside for hours -- it is *not* going to work. You have to take advantage of the moment.
Feel her butt -- right under the anus. When they gotta poop there will be a ridge there. I hate to sound gross but you won't ever miss that way. If there is a 'ridge' there they gotta poop. If there isn't then it's probably not far enough thru the intestines to trigger them to go now.
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Next point -- UTI
Don't try to do a caught sample. Take her to the vet and don't let her go. (not for a couple of hours if possible) Call the vet ahead and warn them of this.
THEN ask the vet to do a **sterile** urine sample. That's either going to be drawn as an aspirate (with a needle directly from the bladder) OR they'll put a cathether in.
Then ask the vet to have a "culture and sensitivity" done on it. Don't wait for the vet to suggest this -- just DO it. You absolutely MUST know if there is still bacteria there (or crystals and the c & s will show that) and not only IF, but what specific antibiotics will kick it and kick it hard.
In other words -- don't sabotage your own efforts by not knowing for sure. Get it handled completely.
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"crystals" -- There's another UTI thread ("Blood in urine" I think it is) where I did a long post to explain you can find several things in urine. You can find bacteria. You can find "crystals" (or the beginnings of them). YOu can find a couple of other things. But they aren't all UTIs -- they are separate problems.
Most common are struvite crystals. Calcium oxylate crystals do surely exist but they aren't as common. AND Calcium oxylate crystals tend to have a genetic component to them and tend to be in an acid-based urine. Struvites TEND to be in an alkalyne urine.
Cranberry is virtually not going to change the ph much at all. It's acid content is extremely low. HOWEVER -- it is mostly glucose. The way cranberry helps a uti is that it bonds with the infection cells and literally makes them too slick to stick to the urinary tract.
D-mannose is similar but a more powerful sugar. It doesn't get absorbed by the body -- it just bonds to infection cells and helps wash them away instead of lettng them stick.
But if there is a bacterial infection get it treated. You will have to bite the bullet and pay for the C&S and know absolutely for sure that it's gone (you may have to go back for another urinalysis after treatment just to make sure the bacteria is gone).
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Getting rid of struvite crystals. If the crystals aren't 'bad' and are just beginning to form you can often kick it with simply adding Vitamin C (ascorbic acid -- not natural C --you want a C that is going to remain 'acid' in the body). Don't add so much it gives her diarreha -- you'll have to increase it gradually and back off when you hit 'too much'.
You can also acidify the diet -- and the ph of a dog's urine SHOULD be in a range and what will allow struvites to form in Dog A may not be Dog B. Just be aware that you can treat struvites with diet (and it doesn't have to be inferior food either).
That's the holistic way to treat struvites. It will often work so you don't have to do other things. I'm keeping Billy's urine struvite free just with C.
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Husband -- no, I'm not going to buy "men". You've got to sit down with him and specifically truly make him "get it". I suggested a letter simply because it works. They don't have to feel belittled to your face, they don't have to 'react' to your face -- they can ponder what you said ... get over being 'mad' ;and THEN you deal with it.
He thinks you're wrong and she's just dumb -- cute but dumb. But this IS a training issue and this IS going to lead to getting rid of her if you guys can't lick this BEFORE you move.
When you get an issue where your spouse just isn't "hearing you" -- you have to try something different, and you're never going to get the kids to cooperate if your husband is giving off "Mom's being silly" signals.
IN the 10 years David and I have been married I've done this about three times. Each time I was absolutely deadly serious about something and he wasn't hearing me. David's a Scot and when he "makes up his mind" Hades could freeze over and he wouldn't change his mind. So getting 'thru' when he thinks his course is set is NOT easy.
I know myself and when I'm just THAT close to doing major physical harm (either to myself by beating my head against the wall or literally blowing myself into such a hissy fit that I endanger marital harmony in a big way) -- I sit down and pour it into a letter.
It works. You know me - I'm never brief but I tend to work for hours on one of these. BUT when the two of you are in a "stonewall" situation -- he doesn't believe you, he thinks you're being silly and you KNOW beyond a shadow of doubt that he is w-r-o-n-g and the dog's gonna suffer for it-- then do what it takes to change how you talk to him and accomplish it.
Obviously you don't have to do MY method -- I'm just telling you what extremes I go to in order to get my point across when it's critical. I don't over use it -- if I left him ratty notes all the time he'd never read them. But he knows when he gets one of these I've had it big time.
Just my thots.