Beginner agility - What did you like?

Ooo that's awesome!

Things I liked about my beginner class:

- the instructor made arrangements based on the level of each dog.  Kenya already has a height card, so say for instance when we started weaves, we worked on actual weaves while the other dogs started with the channels.  For some of the sequences, she allowed certain dogs to run off lead

- the instructor stressed proper body position and how significantly something like the angle of our shoulders will affect the dog's position more so than a verbal command 

- the instructor stressed using verbal commands at the appropriate time.  Don't wait to say "jump!" until the dog is only one step from the jump, that sort of thing

 

Things I didn't like:

- there was a young Corgi in our class so everyone jumped 8".   Kenya jumps 20" and sometimes 24" (not for agility, but for other types of training and competition the jumps are higher: 1meter/40";).  "Jumping" 8" is fine for hind foot awareness, but that's not really a jump to her.  The other dogs were young (only a year) so I think she left it low because they shouldn't be doing a lot of jumping yet anyway, but still...

 

We are into it mainly for fun but will probably compete.  The dog was given to me with the stipulation that she continue with agility, so we might as well compete eventually.  There were 4 other dogs and I know a couple owning the little Corgi want to compete with that dog.  Their other dog is older so she shouldn't do too much agility.  The remaining 2 dogs....I'm not sure.

What I liked:

• All positive methods and not forcing a dog that is too scared. I like that they would ease a dog that was afraid in to the obstacles, by doing things near the obstacle first.
• Stressing body positioning (a big thing for noobs!)
• Kept things very fun, easy going and low pressure 
• Having tall dogs go in a group and small dogs in another group so that you can change jump heights.
• Gradually increasing height of obstacles.
• Working on verbal control of your dog 

 

What I didn't like:

• Not enough focus on flat work and agility terms such as crosses, etc.
• No handouts
• Not enough focus on age appropriate obstacles.
  
• Not sticking to rules such as "no dogs in heat in class"
• No homework
• Instructors that have never competed trying to teach
  

I have taken 2 beginners agility classes because my dog is still young and not old enough to do standard heights. I do intend to compete eventually.

I've been told by a couple of people that they quit half-way thru beginner agility because they spent most of the time just sitting around waiting for their turn to go. So I'd suggest having "self work" stations set up for people to use while the instructor helps whoever is on deck- things that are easy and safe, like working on a wobble board, walking through a ladder, etc.  

I'm not actually a fan of beginner classes that start out by putting the dogs on the obstacles. Every dog I've trained we've put in several months of off-obstacle foundation training before getting on the obstacles, and in our club no one goes into obstacle training without first either doing the "puppy agility" classes or "obedience for agility" if their dog is older. I've seen some really scary things happen in beginner classes that start with obstacles- dogs who aren't aware they have hind ends falling off dog walks, dogs who have never been let off leash in their entire lives taking off and causing chaos, and even worse, instructors insisting the dogs remain on leash while doing obstacles and getting hung up and scared and hurt.

Great information so far!  Thanks!  I happen to share your opinions and find that reassuring.

My biggest fear is that I don't want to overload them with information.  I tend to forget what it's like to be new at something and talk above people's heads sometimes -- The same thing happens when giving riding lessons and I have to remind myself to explain stuff in an easier way or explain HOW to do something instead of just saying to do it.

I know how incredibly important things like body language, shoulder awareness & verbal cues are in agility, but I'm not sure if that's something that people can comprehend until they know a bit more about the obstacles and how we string them together.  I do remember my trainer stressing the importance of telling the dog what he is to do well in advance (ie: saying jump before the dog is already on top of it!), so that was a helpful reminder.  Many of us in the newbie class had a hard time with that one for some reason!

What sort of things do you recommend as "homework?"  Most people aren't going to have agility obstacles, although all of our students are able to come and use the facility between classes if they want to practice.  I think homework would depend on the dog -- for instance, some dogs might need work on "focus" exercises and paying attention to their handler.  I can see being able to do that stuff at home.  When I was a beginner I went home and built a set of weave poles because I knew that's what my dog would need the most work with.

I'm pretty sure that my trainer will have a class plan for me to follow and that will make things easier -- for example, we usually would work on three obstacles a night in my class.  Always weaves because they took the most work; then things like the tunnels or contacts.  I also really like jump chutes for teaching a dog to regulate their stride and figure out distances.  I'm a horse person, I can't help it!  lol

Ultimately I suppose my methods will depend on the skill level of the class.  The four dogs in my beginner class were amazingly talented with great owners, so we all progressed quite rapidly.  Three of us were able to run clean & smooth novice courses at the end of the seven weeks!  I would be so excited if I could have a class like that.

KarissaKS

What sort of things do you recommend as "homework?"  Most people aren't going to have agility obstacles, although all of our students are able to come and use the facility between classes if they want to practice.

Stuff to do at home:

1. Tippy board (4x4 piece of plywood) with a tennis ball in a sock duct taped to the bottom, then larger balls depending on how the dog's confidence improves. We use a jolly ball under ours.

2. Hind end awareness - ladder walking through the rungs, on the rungs, on either side (not the rungs), etc. cavaletties using whatever people have around, legs work great too as a little bounce for puppies who should not jump high.

3. Basic commands down, sit, stay using only the verbal since I want Luna to have 100% verbal commands, so she doesn't have to be looking at me to get a cue.

4. Board walking. On the ground at first, and then up on cinder blocks. 

5. Down on the 4x4 plywood (no ball under it) is also great for pre-table work. 

Hope that helps!

PS - Congrats! That is great that you will be teaching and I bet you'll be great!

ETA: I left a word out that totally changed #2! Puppies should not be jumping high!
 

Mudpuppy -- We do require that dogs have passed a basic obedience class before they are allowed in beginner agility.  Around here there wouldn't be much demand for an agility class that didn't let people "play" with the actual obstacles.  There was an insane dog in my beginner class -- for one night.  After he proved that he absolutely could not be trusted to be off his leash even long enough to run through a tunnel, they were asked not to come back to the group class and instead use the $$ towards private lessons (or to join the obedience class).  We don't put up with dangerous or unruly dogs.

Dogs getting hung up or yanked by their leash is my pet peeve, so I guarantee that I will stress off leash behavior from the very beginning.  I do not feel that a dog can actually learn to use their body while being restricted by the leash.  I have yet to see someone with an average-sized dog be able to follow along and not interfere with the leash.

Depending on the size of the class, I agree with giving people projects to do between exercises.  In the beginner group it will depend on what skills we worked on the previous week.  I think the easiest thing to do would be contact behavior (not the whole contact, just getting the 2O/2O) or working on wrapping single jumps or practicing weaves.  It all would depend on what we're working on that day -- I'm leary about letting beginners loose to do whatever they want, though, because doing it wrong would be bad.

Our club doesn't have things like ladders or wobble boards -- we've got the equipment and that's what I have to work with.  The teeter and the a-frame can be lowered, but we have a standard dog walk.  Ultimately I just hope that people will have done their obedience homework prior to class and that they will all be prepared and ready to learn agility!

By homework, I mean mostly handler focus games or commands. Touch, Here, different turning movements - flatwork basically. Anything and everything that works on getting the dog to focus and listen and getting the handler to work on control - but it has to be somewhat fun.

Also, just because its agility doesn't mean the students shouldn't be working on basics either. Sits/down/ stays, wait, etc with a lot of distractions.

Where I started we didn't really have a "beginner" class. We just started learning obstacles and running courses. It worked for some not for others. Where I am now they break it into sections, focus and control, contacts, weaves etc. I have not taken these with Teddi she got side lined, and Belle was past that when we came to the new facility. For me now, it is hard for me to learn the body language, that was not stressed at first. I think it would be easier starting at the beginning and have it be second nature. As for home work, have them have dogs make contact with EVERYTHING. Example when we walk our dogs in the neighborhood, they have always climbed rocks, walked across wooden benches or parking curbs, jumped low things (decorator fences, bushes etc). Using the same commands as in agility, climb it, walk it, jump it. They get used to seeing weird things. My dogs have never looked at anything with suspicion at class as a result.

mudpuppy

I've been told by a couple of people that they quit half-way thru beginner agility because they spent most of the time just sitting around waiting for their turn to go. So I'd suggest having "self work" stations set up for people to use while the instructor helps whoever is on deck- things that are easy and safe, like working on a wobble board, walking through a ladder, etc.  

I'm not actually a fan of beginner classes that start out by putting the dogs on the obstacles. Every dog I've trained we've put in several months of off-obstacle foundation training before getting on the obstacles, and in our club no one goes into obstacle training without first either doing the "puppy agility" classes or "obedience for agility" if their dog is older. I've seen some really scary things happen in beginner classes that start with obstacles- dogs who aren't aware they have hind ends falling off dog walks, dogs who have never been let off leash in their entire lives taking off and causing chaos, and even worse, instructors insisting the dogs remain on leash while doing obstacles and getting hung up and scared and hurt.

 I couldn't agree more! I truly disliked beginner agility and only stuck through it so we could be pay for green fees and train on our own. 

My beginner agility class had 5-8 dogs depending on who showed up. All of the dogs were adolescents and none had any basic training (apparently they did but clearly the distractions were too much). The other dogs were always loose (sometimes by accident but mostly bad management by the owners), the handlers would throw treats inside the tunnel/chutes to encourage their dogs to go through, force their dog onto a lowered plank/teeter/frame (it was awful to watch them attempt to lure or C&T while they pulled their dog onto/across the obstacles) etc... To put it nicely it was chaos and the instructor was helpless to control anything (not her fault, she just couldn't possibly guide everyone). We often had 2-4 stations set up to avoid spending the whole class waiting but that only contributed to the chaos. 

To be honest, I don't know why beginner agility classes even introduce weaves or teeters because a dog cannot possibly become proficient in such a short time frame (unless they have access to obstacles outside of class). I think it would be much better to use the table, tunnel and jumps (add the tire/chute as they get more proficient) and save the tougher obstacles for the end of class or for the next level entirely. Using ladders or wobble boards or VERY low planks or a low a-frame is fine - even using 2x2 weaves to train entries would be fine. But since everyone wants to get the fun part of sequencing ASAP, it seems that using easier obstacles would be the best idea for a safer class with happy dogs and handlers.

I would definately focus on the OB part of agility -lots of targeting in particular - its invaluable to have a dog that knows how to target when it comes to agility IMO.  I used targets in almost every training aspect - from send-outs, go-outs, crosses,  obstacle discrimination, obstacle proofing, contacts, the table etc...

OOO Targets good point. I feel that is something really missing from Belle. We have taught them after the fact, we still have problems with touch. Fortunately her contacts are good.

 Congrats KarissaKS!

 While we're not finished with our beginner class - our last class is coming up but now she is thinking about adding two more classes because she doesn't want our 'vacation' to last too long since everyone in class is dead serious about showing.

What I like about it so far was that she focused on flatwork/groundwork, getting your dog attentive to you, trying to excite your dog, controlling your dog, and she did very light introductions to the obstacles which I did like because you won't go anywhere unless you can control your dog.

She did provide some handouts which caught me off-guard because I wasn't expecting but haven't received any news ones since she got back from Cynosports World games. I did like that she provided that because she gave a list of homework to do while she was gone for two weeks. She does give a lot of tips for training away from class.

 
The "wait for your turn" thing isn't an issue with me because I like that everyone looks at you doing your thing and she and she asks someone in the class to give a critique. I rather go this route in the beginning than to perform the skills incorrectly. And yes, during some sessions like working on the crosses, everyone is doing them at their own pole and she looks at the student and critiques and then tells all to look and listen on what is going on and how to fix it.

 

mudpuppy

I've been told by a couple of people that they quit half-way thru beginner agility because they spent most of the time just sitting around waiting for their turn to go. So I'd suggest having "self work" stations set up for people to use while the instructor helps whoever is on deck- things that are easy and safe, like working on a wobble board, walking through a ladder, etc.  

I'm not actually a fan of beginner classes that start out by putting the dogs on the obstacles. Every dog I've trained we've put in several months of off-obstacle foundation training before getting on the obstacles, and in our club no one goes into obstacle training without first either doing the "puppy agility" classes or "obedience for agility" if their dog is older. I've seen some really scary things happen in beginner classes that start with obstacles- dogs who aren't aware they have hind ends falling off dog walks, dogs who have never been let off leash in their entire lives taking off and causing chaos, and even worse, instructors insisting the dogs remain on leash while doing obstacles and getting hung up and scared and hurt.

 

 
Sioux never really minds standing around, she's so used to going to presentations, conferences, and luncheons with me, but the monstah needs a job and was quite bored in between exercises that didn't flow quickly enough.  I found myself waiting waaaay too long between turns, and creating my own "work stations", as mudpuppy calls them.   A lot of the delay was caused by a poor woman (breeder, but I use the term loosely, since she undersocialized her own puppy!) whose almost adult dog was terrified (with a capital T) of every obstacle.  No one should have to wait five minutes for a scared to death dog to make it through the lowest setting on the tire jump, shaking and drooling the whole time.  The teacher is a GREAT competitor, but maybe just not savvy enough to tell such a woman to take some private classes to ready her dog some more, so as not to hold up the group.  I think half the dog's anxiety was transmitted by the owner, who was clearly embarrassed that he was so frightened.  Seriously, though, we pay for these lessons, so we don't really want to do a whole lot of just waiting...have things for people to do when they aren't busy watching you demonstrate an exercise or doing the main exercise themselves. 

 

Congrats on your new teaching position!!

I guess the only advice I can give is my experiences in "puppy" class.  With my new dog, Zip we are almost finished with our 2nd 8 week session in "puppy" class.  Our class has had the same people in it from the 1st session. (My trainer has a pretty loyal following so all her classes are pretty much the same groups)  In our case everyone in class are "seasoned"  performance dog homes.  We all actively compete at the Excellent/Masters level with other dogs.  Our goals are to eventually compete with our young dogs.  So, that being said we have done a lot of shaping, clicker and board work.  Mainly the goal of class is to give us things to work on during the week with our dogs.  For the last 16 weeks we have done tons of foundation work, handling cues, introduced the dogs to some obstacles (tire, table, tunnels, jumps) and board work.  This week in class (week 7 of 8 week session) we did a lowered dog walk.  That was Zip's first time all the way across any contact obstacle.  A couple dogs in my class have been on contact equipment at home. 

What I really like about my instructor's methods is we get a chance to practice what we have been working on at home and she gives us tips on shaping the behavior better and getting a clearer message to my dog.  So in other words, she "fine tunes" my training.  I will usually repeat exercises from class at home.   Class gives me ideas for things to work on at home.  Allows me to "think outside my box" if you will!

Good Luck!! 

 

 

I agree with everybody who said "Foundation groundwork!!"

 Newbies shouldn't be allowed on most obstacles. My trainer does not allow anybody to get on obstacles unsupervised until they're in their 3rd or 4th month of training. Beginning class (I assume it's 6 weeks?) should focus all on groundwork. Time and time again I hear of people who took several years to climb their way up because they had to retrain the basics. And when you think about it, there are SOOOO many foundational skills; you wonder why you ever even thought of putting newbies on obstacles! =P

- Shaping a 2o2o with a contact plate or a RAT or whatever you like

- Self-control/"Wait": No self control = shoddy start line stays. Learning self control is crucial.

- Hind end awareness/proprioception: cavalettis, ladders, buja/wobble board, learning to back up, etc. One method that I am very much a fan of is having the dog walk on a low, raised board. Have two people on both sides of the dog for safety, and wobble the board a bit so the dog learns to stay on the board despite movement.

- According to the dog's age, you could start working on jump style and stride

- Circles (lots and lots of circles!)

- Teaching the "Go" command and working on lateral distance

- Working on fast responses w/ distractions (The canine version of musical chairs is perfect for this!)

- Reinforcing play as a motivation

- Most importantly, cementing that RECALL!!!

This might seem a little superfluous for recreational agility, but even if your clients aren't competing, they need to learn how to execute the obstacles correctly and *safely*. As you can see, a lot of these foundational skills can be worked on at home (especially the 2o2o contact plate). Here's a link to a well-reknowned agility "preschool":

http://www.dogagilitypreschool.biz/Handouts/index.htm