Starting in conformation.... advice, please!

    • Gold Top Dog

    Starting in conformation.... advice, please!

    Well, I've committed to trying conformation with my puppy.  So, I've been looking into classes for confo and he's in puppy kindergarten.

    What I want to know is any helpful tips to prevent me from doing something horribly wrong in shaping my confo puppy and advice to help me bring him up to be a champion :o

    I have no idea how to do this, he's my first dog with a pedigree and I'm really excited about this.

    Any and all advice is very much appreciated!

    Oh, and background:

    Weimaraner, 4 months old. I've had him since 13 weeks.  He was with his breeder up til then.  His parents are all Champions and beautiful, well bred dogs.  Great temperament. Like I said he's in puppy kindegarten and he's doing terrific at it.  He's also fed raw.

    Thanks!!

    • Puppy

    The biggest thing you can do is take your dog everywhere with you. Keep him socialized. Take him to new places, take him to dog shows just to watch at ringside, so he can get use to the noises and the confusion.

    Definately get yourself in a good club that offers confirmation classes. Go to as many dog shows that you possibly can and watch the handlers, this is a biggy, see how they hold the dog, the way the bait the dog, there posture. Also its good to watch other breeds as well. It gives you an overall view of the whole dog showing adventure.

    Kathy

    • Gold Top Dog

    Alot of the local Kennel Clubs offer Conformation classes.  If there aren't any close to you, there are things that you can do with him.

    One of the really important things in Conformation is the stand.  I have found that the easiest way to train this is with the Happy Legs Box, found online.  If you can't spend the money on one, you can work the same basic thing using food cans.  I would start him off on tuna cans, they are large and not very tall.  I stand him then try to put the cans approximately where his feet would go, then circle him around and approach the cans from the back.  Walk him forward until his front legs are right behind the front cans.  At this point you are going to have to manually place each foot on a can.  Be prepared for wiggling and stepping off.  I usually hold the face, kinda on the side, holding the skin right at the jawline with my right hand.  You can also hold some type of food right there at his nose, without really giving him any, kinda let him work to try to get it out of your hand, this distracts him.  I use my left hand to place the feet.  I usually start with the left front, reaching over him, then right front, left rear-reaching over, then right rear.  This is going to take practice on both of your parts.  Be very patient with him.  The command to give him is "stand".  I don't use a stay command, in his eyes, the stay should be part of the stand command.  When he get a little steadier, put him on soup cans.  Because they don't want to "fall" off, they tense up their muscles, this locking up of the muscles actually trains the position, so that when you take them off the cans and say stand, they adjust automatically to that position.  Work on keeping him up there for about 5 secs at first, then release him.  He should be able to stand there for 1 min without  falling or getting off.  That is a great start for Conformation.  Work on getting him to move in a straight line, gaiting.  Both feet on the same side should NEVER move forward and backward at the same time.  This is called pacing.  It should be rt front and lt rear moving forward, as lt front and rt rear are moving backwards.  At the end of your straight line, slow down and as you stop, tell him Stand and hold your treat out infront like you did with the cans work.  Don't stop quickly as he will not have time to set his feet properly.  If you have anymore questions, please feel free to ask!

    Dawn

    • Gold Top Dog
    Thank you so much, great advice! I've been trying to get him as socialized as I can. He's doing pretty good with it, I'm just trying to maintain it. It's like a full time job! lol

    What a cool box! I was thinking "Oh, it can't be more than $150! I'll get it!" 8-) Erm, tuna cans, please!! Whew! But, what a fantastic idea!

    Great advice, again, THANK YOU!.. keep it coming!

    So I found a trainer, and she happened to have a slot today... so off we went this morning. It was an hour private. She worked with him to get him where I could start working with him. He's apparently a tiny bit skittish about her placing his feet, and just tactile stuff in general. She said not to worry, it's VERY common with a 4 month old puppy. She said that he free-stacks really well. But, we have a lot of work, still, of course. So, another private lesson and I should be able to catch up. ... but we'll see.

    I'd like to try Logan in a baby-puppy class, if possible. I think it would be GREAT practice for us. I just hope I do him justice.

    Here's a terrible (shot from my phone! Ugh.) image of him today. I know we have a ways to go, getting his tail up and a little more stretched, but not bad for day 1?? Well, I certainly think he's a handsome boy, but I maybe slightly prejudiced!


    • Gold Top Dog

    LOL, yes it is kinda pricey.  I have the whole system with a large and toy box, but then it is a part of my business.

    He looks absolutely beautiful!  You might try clicking him on the tail issue.  The GSP that I show had tail issues when I first started showing him.  He hated to have his tail touched!  If he is having issues with being touched, work that first.  If he just needs to hold it up, then touch the underside and if he raises it, click immediately and treat.  Don't worry about him holding it up for any length of time. Just work on getting it up on command, oh yeah, I just say "tail" as my command.   Once he will put it up with command, you can start working on time.  Just to warn you, puppies at this age are typically very gangly in their gate.  As he matures this will smooth out.  A judge will not fault you for puppy growth.  They understand.  If you can find a match to go to, you can enter those at this age.  It will be good practice for you both.  It is very important for you to try to relax.  It is common for people to be nervous going into the ring.  Try to remember that even Professional Handlers have dogs that go into the ring and act up or not do what they are supposed to do.  This is a learning experience for you both.  Try to go into it having fun.  Any nerves/stress you are feeling will travel right down that lead to your dog, then he is going to get upset, not understanding why you are.  We have all been beginners at sometime.  Watch what others do, but also watch the Judge. If you pay attention to the Judge while they are judging other dogs, some of them will be looking over the line of dogs that have already shown.  If you see the Judge doing that, try to have him reasonably  stacked, so if they glance down that line, your dog looks good.  Another secret is to stack your dog just a hair in front of the rest of the line of dogs.  Not so he is sticking way out front of the line, but just a bit.  It helps draw attention to him.  NEVER be behind that line!!!  In the lineup, watch the Judge.  Sometimes they will move dogs around in the line, so you don't want them to have to tell you twice to move.   It is good to show up at the ring before it is your time to go in.  Watch the style of the Judge.  How do the want the dogs to line up?  What pattern do they run?  Knowing these things will help you feel more at ease knowing what is going on as you go into the ring.  It is better if you can get to the ring about an hour before, depending on when your class runs to watch.  Leave your dog crated in the car or somewhere safe.  It is hard on a young dog to stand ringside for a long time, they get tired or will lose interest.  I never feed mine the morning of a show, that way I KNOW they will pay attention, bc I have the bait!  LOL  Remember that you will be the first in the ring for your breed.  Males go first then females.  In a match it will 2-4 month males, then 6-9 month males, etc.  In a regular show, you will be first, 6-9 month puppy dog class.  Don't be late!  Most Judges are very patient with young dogs and new handlers.  If he stresses and acts up, don't get upset, they allow for alot in this age class.  They know they are puppies.  Just relax and do your best!!  HAVE FUN!!!!!  Stick with it!  Best of luck!

    Dawn

    • Gold Top Dog

    always watch feet. I am a feet FIEND! carpet...dirt etc can break down feet...and keep those nails short. Get him used to a dremmel and work it so his nails are mere nubs. Not sure what type of feet your breed is supposed to show but very rarely are splayed or unknuckled feet called for.

    I keep my hounds that are showing on river rock to promote good feet....but a lot of that is genetic.

    So there's my bit of advice. Also watch for things like keeping him on tie outs or leads that are too long to avoid the side stepping or crossing over that can result. Work on gaiting a TON since yours in a breed usually shown at a good clip if I recall. Stacks are great but movement wins...that's usually the case anyways. Keep that lead loose...nothing impresses a judge more than a dog that can move out like the dickens on a loose lead...not strung up tight.

    • Bronze

    Practice having others approach, stare hard at, and go over your dog--this will be essential for them to get used to in the show ring. This is also what you can take advantage of via conformation classes...

     

    Karen

    • Gold Top Dog

     Thanks for all the help guys! :)

    We've been in conformation classes and continuing to improve. He also graduated puppy kindergarten tonight, what a big boy he's becoming!

     
    Here's the latest shot, he's much better with hand stacking and holding it.  Gaiting we are continuing to work on.  He's still free-stacking really well. He's allowing people to look at this teeth, measure ears and touch.  Having a hard time getting the tail up regularly... but were doing better.

     
    Thanks... any and all tips are definitely appreciated! Thanks again!


     

    • Gold Top Dog

    Oh and Gina, I meant to inquire further with regards to your comment about dirt and carpet "breaking down" feet.  Huh?!  Oye!  I have him hiking regularly and I have wall-to-wall carpeting!  What do you mean..? And river rock? Like you have them work on it? Or...? Sorry, I feel dumb, but thi is new to me.  His feet are otherwise good, according to my trainer, 'nice and tight', but his toenails were too long ... HOWEVER....

    He's getting dremmeled every other day to get his toes shorter. We're getting there, but it's definitely a process. He's doing great with it though. Nikki's toes are looking better, too!  :)  Any tips to getting the nubs?
     

    • Gold Top Dog

    Technically you can stack facing any way you want...but typically the nose goes the other way....you probably know that tho from class LOL.

    You really don't wanna know what some do to get to the nubs Wink little by little is fine with the dremmel...it takes a while tho.

    • Gold Top Dog

    rwbeagles
    carpet...dirt etc can break down feet...

     

    I don't understand this either! Could you explain for us ignorant folk? :) I sadly have absolutely no idea what you're talking about Stick out tongue

    • Gold Top Dog

     

    One of the best things you can do is have him evaluated by someone knowledgeable in Weims. They can show you how to play up his good points and help make sure they show off more than any faults. Also, this isn't a huge deal, but when you stack, try to make yourself invisible.  You want the dog to stand out, not you.  So, with the hand that is holding the tail, use 3 fingers and close your hand.  That makes it a lot less noticeable than  your hand waving behind his bottom.  Again, not a huge issue, but just something small that will make it look more neat.