all stage vs puppy food

    • Gold Top Dog

    all stage vs puppy food

    What is the difference between the all stages foods vs puppy foods. I know that the all life stage can be feed at any age, but is there an advantage to one? Thanks.
    • Gold Top Dog
    I too would like to see an answer to this question, sorry I dont have any answers for you. Maybe one of our other more wise poster's will have some input.
     
    The only thing I know is about large breed pups and being careful they dont grow too qickly as it can cause ortho problems later on. I think there is a comment on this on solid golds website too.
    • Gold Top Dog
    Puppies nutritional needs are quite different than that of adult dogs. I know that some foods say they are for "All Life Stages",  but with some of the vitamins and minerals, there could be deficencies or excesses which could cause problems. This is JMO, and not based on personal experience. However, the NRC's (National Research Council) nutrient requirements listing shows the levels of Vit/Min needed as minimums and adequates which can vary quite a bit for growth and maintenance.
    • Gold Top Dog
    Puppies need a higher percentage of protein. Large breed puppies, ones that will be 50 pounds or more in adulthood, need a large breed puppy formula that manages closely the phosphorous and calcium intake as well as a certain protein percentage to prevent them from growing too fast and getting too heavy too fast. It could, indeed, present orthopedic problems, especially in breeds prone to them. Example, labs are prone to Hip Dysplasia. In fact, a breed or show lab is tested at 2 years for HD.
     
    Per my vet, I fed our large breed dog puppy formula until age 2. When he was 2, I switched him to adult formula.
     
    • Gold Top Dog
    According to the folks at Natura, the all stages is fine so long as you feed MORE than you would to an adult, and in accordance with their conversion chart.  My vet however, feels that MY dogs are fine because they get homecooked as well, but that when I place foster pups I should always recommend the large breed puppy unless I'm positive that the new home will homecook as well.
    • Gold Top Dog
    From what I have been taught, as long as the gauranteed analysis meets or exceeds the NRC requirements of the puppy, it is fine.  If it is an all life stages formula and has been approved by the AAFCO to meet the nutrition requirements of puppies to seniors, then the vitamin content is adequate. 
    • Gold Top Dog
    [linkhttp://www.greatdanelady.com/articles/do_i_need_to_use_a_puppy_food.htm]http://www.greatdanelady.com/articles/do_i_need_to_use_a_puppy_food.htm[/link]

    I would not feed one of the rich  "puppy foods" to any puppy of any breed. The good large-breed puppy foods are fine for any puppy of any breed or size, but really, large-breed puppy food is practically identical to most high-quality "all stages" foods. Be careful-- some of the "large breed" puppy foods don't have enough calcium in them. I think Eukabana is the worst at 0.8%. You want at least 1.5% calcium but less than 2% (dry weight).
    • Gold Top Dog
    What would you consider "rich" foods?  I see that term a lot, and to ME rich is heavy cream sauces and that kind of thing, so I'm curious which kibbles people consider rich...and why.
    • Gold Top Dog
    I prefer to use "dense" instead of "rich"
    • Gold Top Dog
    Assume a dog/puppy needs to consume a certain amount of certain nutrients per day. We'll call that "a serving". A dense food would contain those nutrients in food that takes up little in the way of volume. Innova is a dense food. A serving of Innova is about half the volume of a serving of Purina, a non-dense food. A rich food takes that serving, and adds empty calories to it. Like pouring a cream sauce over your meal. Most "puppy foods" contain too many calories per serving, mostly  from added fat and sugars. People like to see rolly-polly little pups that visibly grow.  Of course it's very unhealthy for any puppy, of any breed, to be rolly-polly and to grow rapidly. The only way to keep a puppy properly thin on one of these "rich" puppy foods is to feed much less-- which means the pup doesn't get adequate intake of nutrients.
    • Gold Top Dog
    I don't know much about the nutrient part, but when I was breeding, I did puppy food for the pups and ;pregnant moms in the last 3 weeks and during lactation,  and adult food for my adults/seniors. This seems to suit them well. But then I had small breed so I didn't worry about growth very much.
    I have tried senior foods with my 10 yr old minpin, and it caused him to go downhill very quickly in terms of health- he got creaky and his arthritis seemed to really bother him. His coat was dull and dry, his energy level plumeted.  On adult food he still acts half his age and we don't even notice his arthritis.  Senior foods I have no use for.
    • Gold Top Dog
    Ah, but see MANY here accuse Innova of being RICH, so you see my confusion?
     
    I DO feed the all life stages Innova to the gsd pups, but I also homecook for them.
    • Gold Top Dog
    I have another question, a corgi's adult wt is 24 to 30 lbs, but because they are prone to hip dysplasia I have heard to feed the large breed puppy formula.
     
    what do you guys think?
     
    I am getting a new baby corgi boy this weekend he will be 10 weeks old, I was looking at starting him out with solid gold or eagle pack do I need to go large breed?
    Thanks for the input
    • Gold Top Dog
    I would ask Solid Gold and Eagle Pack that question if I were you. I'm not sure about EP, but I know SG replies within hours (first time I e-mailed them, I got a reply 45 minutes later). If you do ask them, I'd be interested in the response.
    • Gold Top Dog
    My corgi's breeder doesn't feed large breed to her pups, but just a puppy food.

    When I got Shippo, I switched him over to Canidae and he's been doing fine on it. I just have to feed him more since he's a growing boy. >^^;<