Stacking issue

    • Gold Top Dog

    He's actually been a quick study moving in the small ring (AKC/UKC) and doing his down and backs, he's very attentive when being lured so I think free stacking is going to be the way to go with him in the UKC ring.  The SV ring...he's just going to have to get over it eventually b/c that is not how they stack dogs (but on the other hand, the dogs gait for laps and laps....sometimes a single class takes an hour or more, so the stacking is only a fraction of the time).  He's becoming more possessive of his ball and his ball drive is developing so I'm hoping to use that has a reward (same way I would reward heeling with focus or a long down-stay, release him from a stack to fetch the ball).  Last night I threw his ball into a tree so a new one is on order...

    • Gold Top Dog

     Is this ny help?  I know nothing bout shows or stacking, but I remembered this from  thread from ages ago and thought maybe it ws worth a look?

    http://www.dragonflyllama.com/%20DOGS/Writing/confstack.html

    • Gold Top Dog

    Thanks Chuffy!  I'm sure some of it applies.

    I gave the bricks one more go before throwing in the towel.  I think I like the result.  If he were nervous of the bricks, this would not have worked, but it seems he couldn't care less.  I think the bricks are really helping *me* because I'm getting the stack correct faster and I'm not constantly leaning over him trying to see.  With the bricks, there's limited space the feet can be placed so it's more likely that I set him up right the first time and he starts getting treats right away.  Sorry about the color, I know the wall color makes it harder to see him, but I have a mirror on the opposite wall so I can see what I'm doing, that's why I always stack him in this spot.

    In the first pic I have the rear brick backwards but it didn't matter that much.

    For the last two pics, I fixed the rear brick and moved the front brick a tad closer.  At first I though since he is posting his front feet too far forward, I should place them on the front edge of the brick.  What happened was he curled his claws around the front edge and posted even more, lol!  So I figured out if I put the feet on the back edge, he seems to push up more instead of back, maybe b/c it feels like there's no more ground under the back of his front feet so he doesn't want to push them down flat? Maybe almost too up on his pasterns now, lol.

     

    What do you think?  Success?  I think it's working.  I was praising softly in a high voice the entire time, giving him treats here and there (he's getting SO good at holding the stay) and also excitedly releasing him after standing for about 10 seconds.

    • Gold Top Dog

    It looks like you're making good progress. Just a thought, but have you tried pulling gently on his tail. I've used it sucessfully on several dogs as they will usually pull forward if I pull them slightly back. Don't jerk his tail, just pull him lightly back, and most dogs will resist, which makes them lean into their front when you let go. Then praise and reward as usual.

    Sometimes taping a dog gently under their chest to get them to rock onto their toes will work as well. Give a command to the action so they understand what your asking them to do.

    • Gold Top Dog

    It's funny you say that.  When Nikon was a pup I wanted a stacked pic and DH had to do it b/c he doesn't know my camera.  Ironically, the best pic we got, DH was holding Nik's tail.


    • Gold Top Dog

    n I had really good results giving Ena's tail a little tug, to teach her to lean in a smidge and not... act stupid, LOL. She agrees with Nikon that being hand stacked sucks, and has gotten into the habit of constantly offering free stacks (which is fine with me, but now she's spayed, dang it!).

    • Gold Top Dog

    Do you have UKC shows?  They have an altered NLC class.  I showed Nikon in the NLC puppy before he was 6 months and would like to show Kenya in the altered NLC if they ever offer it when I'm attending.

    • Gold Top Dog

     Do they??? Yeah, we've done UKC, twice, and we LIKE UKC when there's one in the area. I will be looking that up, now, LOL. I would love to still show her here and there. I enjoyed it, and I should keep doing it to practice for the next dog;)

    • Gold Top Dog

     Yep, they do have it.  But some shows don't offer NLC classes and even less offer the other NLC's besides puppy :(  I've wanted to show Kenya because she is already a champion and is very calm and obedient, so it would help me learn the ring patterns and such without dealing with a head strong puppy who already outweighs Kenya and thinks it's fun to "gait" by clawing at the ground with his head down.

    • Gold Top Dog

     Lovely when they "gait" like that, LOL. Thankfully, Ena learned "nose up!" very, very quickly, and is a sweet, compliant dog. She was an ideal starter dog for conformation. Heck, she's going to be a fantastic novice a dog.

    • Gold Top Dog

     Wish I had a simple solution like you using bricks to get Nikon's stack right. Fynn does this stupid easty weasty crap that I thought I had him quit doing but nope he is doing it again.

    I do the tail pull with Fynn. His breeder had to keep reminding me to do it though.Stick out tongue

    • Gold Top Dog

    We have an east/west problem too.  I'm not even dealing with it now.  He actually stands that way naturally so I'll just let it be and maybe he'll outgrow it.  The Germans don't care as much about east/west or cow hocks.

    • Gold Top Dog

     Bean was easty/westy til her chest dropped. I spayed her, her chest dropped, "coat" filled in, and she looks like awesome.  LOL

    • Gold Top Dog

     Something that can also help with the stacking is don't hang him by the collar to get his head up.  With Justin what I have to do is pull up the collar from the sides, half strangle him (He's fine, I swear), and then set his whole front down.  This actually gets him to relax a bit.  While that won't work for Nikon, what WILL work (or should) is controlling his head by the jaw.

     You can stick your fingers under the jaw and feel a "pocket" that will give you a good hold.  Be firm, not rough.  If he fights, all it takes is a gentle shake (don't rip his head off..it should barely register to be honest) and "No, stay".

     Maintain the hold on his jaw as you go to set his rear, then reward when he's not posting.  Clearly this is best when you use a mirror xD

     The bricks are a good idea, and a good problem for his current symptoms, but he'll get wise soon, and realize that when he's off the bricks you can't make him do the same thing.

     Darn smart dogs x.x