Help me design ...

Woah.. that's a lot of information to condense into 5 sections. 

Possibly cause in this day and age, everyone seems to have access to a computer, you could provide some good weblinks where the adopter could read more information.  Although, this could be an issue for people who aren't computer literate, or those who simply don't have a computer.  Or instead of a weblink, you could mention a few points about each section, and then add:  "For additional reading, we recommend or may we suggest..." and list books or authors?

And the basics for me with training are Name, sit, down, stay, come as well as nipping and chewing..

Maybe some tips for socialization in there, too. It sounds like it would be fun to design, so good luck. :)

Weblinks to training club sites or similar would be a great idea, too.

Hmmm...I will think about this. You essentially want to put the most important info they need onto that sheet and then refer them to other sources--right?

I agree with other suggestions about websites, BUT not everyone has a computer at home.  A list of phone numbers for local training and a couple of book titles should also be on there. I would definitely include "what to do in an emergency" on there in the health section.

That is a lot of information to put into one brochure.  I know the Humane Society where I got Harry had individual brochures on various topics, and I also got some articles from my vet the first time I took Harry there (kind of an "intro" packet) that covered a lot of what you have listed above.  Both resources had wonderful information.  Maybe you could do something similar...put together an info packet of articles printed from the web or books (with reference to the sources & authors, of course!).  The cost should be very small...just copies at Kinkos and some folders to put them in.

But, if you want to do just the one brochure on new puppies, I would definitely put something in there about enrolling in a puppy class.  Very important and a lot of new puppy owners aren't aware of these classes.

http://www.petvideo.com/

contact that company. They create 'just adopted' videos. They have one for dogs and cats. I've watched both - and they are FANTASTIC. They are everything you are trying to put in writing - on screen for you to WATCH. I'm not sure on the cost of getting the DVD's. The shelter I used to work for gave them out for free with adoptions- so I wouldn't imagine the cost would be high. I know I can walk in and buy one for $5.

http://www.petvideo.com/contact.html - link to their contact information.

I think this is a much better idea, so much easier to watch, vs. read. And that way people can SEE, and not interperate for themselves as to what they THINK you mean.

House training:

• Emphasise that the onus is on the HUMAN to get the pup in the right place at the right time, not wait for the pup to "tell" them, or have an accident.
  
• Following on from that, the times the pup is most likely to need to go - after eating, drinking, on waking, after or during long periods of play or chewing, any time they circle, pace or sniff, plus as often as is physically possible.
• The MORE times the pup goes in the RIGHT place and the fewer times he goes in the wrong place, the FASTER he will get the message!  With that in mind, letting the pup out in the night at first is WELL WORTH IT.  The pup will be cleaner at night much faster and it avoids confusion.
• A high value reward saved only for "good potty!" is also helpful, as is a word the pup associates with toileting, like "be clean!" or "busy busy"
• CONSTANT, VIGILANT SUPERVISION is key, and containment for short periods after making sure the pup has "been" when the other is not possible.
  

Crate training - I would include the benefits of crate training.  I would also recommend tips for easing the pups "first night at home" - eg bring the crate in the bedroom at first, items with familiar comforting scent on, quiet ticking clock, heat pad, etc.

Health - diet?  Healthy things to offer the dog and potetially harmful foods (like chocolate, cooked bones etc)

Good manners - Loose lead walking, be a tree, etc.  Also, no feeding from plates and "four on the floor" - if they don't want the pup to mouth, pull, beg and jump up later, ALL they have to do is ensure the dog is not rewarded for those things now.

Safety tips - I would include a few words about kids & dogs; not to leave them alone together, that kids often need more training than dogs, that it is unreasonable to expect the dog to put up with being mauled/treated like a toy.

One thing a lot of people forget about is a doggie first aid kit.  You need one for dogs just like you need one for kids.

Suggested home first aid kit for canines ("*" = very important):

     *Regular & emergency vet clinic phone numbers, hours, and locations
     Tools:  
          blunt-end scissors - for cutting hair away  
          *nail trimmer
          *rectal thermometer (flexible) - normal is 101-102F; over 106F is dangerous
          tweezers
          muzzle (old panty hose?) 
          *oral dosage syringe 
     For poisons, toxins; insect bites, snake bites; sharp consumed items: 
          *ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center # 1-888-426-4435
          *Local poison control numbers
          *Syrup of Ipecac (induces vomiting)  -or-
                    hydrogen peroxide (3% solution) - 2 tsp per 30 lbs every 15 min (up to 3 doses)
          activated charcoal - for poison - 1 Tbs in 4 oz of water per 30 lbs
          *Benadryl (anti-histamine) - 1-2 mg/lb of body weight 2-4 times daily [Yes, that dosage is right for dogs.]
          *clean cotton balls (real cotton) & something yummy to lubricate them with
     Minor injuries:   
          sterile saline solution (eye irrigation) 
          eye antibiotic ointment - Terramycin 
          alcohol wipes (individual) 
          triple antibiotic ointment
          skin glue - also good for treating abrasions on pads 
          sterile, non-adherent pads (Tefla) - various sizes 
          Vet Wrap/Vetrap (self adhesive tape) - 2" and 4" width 
          *Kwik Stop (styptic powder) - stop nails from bleeding 
          Bitter Apple - stop chewing on bandages
     *Safe-Guard granules - effective against worms and Giardia (both cause diarrhea)
     Pepto Bismol (for vomiting, gas, diarrhea) - 1 tsp. per 5 pounds every 6 hours
     Gold Bond powder - for hot spots

Be sure to periodically check the expiration dates of stuff in your first aid kits (doggie and human).

Benadryl can save a dog's life if a sting or bite causes the muzzle to swell.  It doesn't necessarily replace a vet, but can give you time to get to a vet.  Tablets or liquid are OK, but do not use the "sugar free" version (contains an artifical sweetner).

Syrup of Ipecac and activated charcoal (look for a children's kit at a pharmacy) can reduce the effects of toxins and give you time to get to a vet.

Dogs, especially puppies, are prone to eating the wrong things.  Examples are cooked bones and X-mas ornaments.  Cotton balls pad the sharp edges and help things pass through without too much trouble.  Soak the balls in half-and-half, cream, etc., or coat the balls with a meat spread.  The number of cotton balls depends on the size of the dog.   http://www.k911.biz/Petsafety/DogAteChickenBone.htm

WARNING:  One toxin new owners need to be aware of is Xylitol, a sweetner in many sugar-free products.  This includes things like mints, candies, gum, mouthwash, toothpaste, cookies, etc.  One breath mint with Xylitol could kill your pup very quickly.  If you even suspect that a dog has gotten into some Xylitol, make her vomit, get to the vet immediately, and tell them you have an emergency.  Xylitol causes a serious drop in blood sugar and damages the liver.

Treatment For Pepper Spray:
 
eye flush and mouth wash -
(1)  solution of ½ liquid antacid (i.e. Maalox) and ½ water
(2)  Always irrigate from the inside corner of the eye towards the outside.  A bottle with a squirt cap is ideal.
 
skin treatments - Be sure to remove all the oil!!
(1)  when spray is still wet - 10-15% vegetable oil (or mineral oil) in water, plus 1-2 tbs. liquid dish soap and a few drops of Rescue Remedy.  Rinse off or wipe off with moist towels.
(2)  when spray is dry - Wipe vegetable oil (or mineral oil) on skin. Wipe off with vodka (or another ethanol or with rubbing alcohol).
(3)  Suggestion for final canine rinse - 20 to 30 drops of tea tree oil per quart of water
 
Note: 10-15% vegetable oil is about 1.8 to 2.8 cups per gallon (16 cups/gallon) - e.g. 2.5c oil + 13.5c water

Contact the company - tell them what you're looking for, and IF it does cost to get a bunch of them in. we charged the general public for them ($5), but I'm really not sure if we paid anything to get them - maybe just some s/h.

I think there's just too much infomation to fit it all in one brochure! Maybe make one for pups and one for adults, that may give you more room.

erica1989

Contact the company - tell them what you're looking for, and IF it does cost to get a bunch of them in. we charged the general public for them ($5), but I'm really not sure if we paid anything to get them - maybe just some s/h.

I think there's just too much infomation to fit it all in one brochure! Maybe make one for pups and one for adults, that may give you more room.

I will definitely contact them sometime this week. If it is just s/h, that could probably come out of my pocket.

Making several brochures sounds more and more like the way to go. One of the things, though, is that we know nothing about the dogs since most of them are strays so lots of the points (e.g. house training, manners, safety, etc.) will need to be included in both. I see my small idea growing & growning, lol.

On a happy note and a little off-topic, our first low spay clinic is going to open very soon. My vet, dear man, will be part of it, volunteering his time and expertise. Yay !