possible to teach a "hush" command?

    • Gold Top Dog

    possible to teach a "hush" command?

    Ari is turning into a barker.  I do not mind barking a couple of times, but she'll go on and on and on.  Right now she's barking at the river that's overflowed and has been since last night (no way to block up this window - it's a glass sliding door and she just moves the shades).   She'll bark when people walk by our door (a bit problematic as we live in a condo - but if she just barked once or twice that would be just fine). 

    So is it possible to teach a hush command, or "that's enough" - something along those lines and how would one go about that?  I don't want her to not bark at all, just quiet down after a few barks when I ask her to.  

    • Gold Top Dog

    The thing that seems to work at my house is acknowleding to the dog that they see something...I always show interest in what they are barking at and say "what is it" looking in the general direction of their sights.  I, too, dont mind a bit of barking, but don't want it to be incessant.  Sounds funny, but I'll thank them for the alert and sometimes just my interest alone then redirecting them to something else will work.

    But for those times that it won't...an "enough" or "hush" will work.  I'm sure the trainers here will offer pro advice, but what I've done is verbally praise the "hush."  Say she is barking non stop and you say "hush."  If she has her focus on you now and is quiet...say "good hush"  When she starts back up...another "hush"  Then as she is quiet for a few seconds..."good hush" again.  It will take repetition...but she will get it.

    You might even want to do a session where you can iniatiate a barking session, then offer a "hush" and the second the quietens down, offer praise and treat.  Rinse and repeat.  Smile

    • Gold Top Dog

     I agree with CoBuHe. That is how I taught "that's enough". I acknowledge what they are barking at and say Thank you, good dog. Followed by That's enough and walk away. If they continue to bark after that's enough, they get a squirt or a shake from the shaker can. If they quiet down they get praise and a treat. This has worked very well for my aussies who are natural guard dogs. I praise them for doing their job (guardian) then just move on.

    I can also use that's enough when they are play barking. I usually let that go on a little more but if it gets too annoying I use that's enough and clap my hands or something similar. After a while they picked up what I wanted.

    • Gold Top Dog

     Hmm we already do the thanks and hush but she keeps going and going and there's no pause.  Squirt bottles for her are fun as are shaker cansConfused (we tried those for her counter surfing to no avail - she thinks it means PLAY TIME!).  I'll try treating the second she stops even if it's just for breath! 


     

    • Gold Top Dog

    If Willow continues on after we've acknowledged her I then direct her to do something else like go lay down or go to her bed or sometimes I'll have her follow me to a different room

     

    • Gold Top Dog

    Harry loves to bark, too.  I found with him, the best way to teach him stop barking was to teach him to bark on command first.  Once he learned to bark on command, I then worked on a "quiet" command, using clicker training.  It works most of the time.  We're still working on it, though.  Good luck!!

    • Gold Top Dog

    For the window barking, I would leave a leash and drag line on her for easy moving and let her be.  When she starts barking, go over tell her Thank you, then give your quiet command.  When teaching Kirby this I like to use a visual cue, like the finger up to the mouth hush symbol, with the verbal command.  If she doesn't immediatly stop, remover her with the leash for a time out away from the window.  The second she calms down and stops barking, praise treat and release her back to the window.  Rinse and repeat.  Most dogs will figure out pretty quick barking=boring no view while not barking= getting to look outside.  You could then use the same method for the door.  Get a friend/family member to help you by walking by, or standing outside talking loudly to stimulate her into barking and you can ask for the quiet and remove her from the situation as need.  The added treat for this method is if she is quiet you can let the family/friend in to greet her and give her a treat for her good behavior.

    • Gold Top Dog

    This is how we trained the brown crew to not bark at the doorbell or knock.  We asked them to sit and wait and praised them for not barking as we worked up from a slight knock to ringing the doorbell repeatedly.

    They are allowed to show interest and maybe a couple of woofs but then they are thanked and redirected.

    • Gold Top Dog

    Tootsie, sometimes gets a little neurotic with her barking, If she doesn't stop with a "thank you" then she is told to go. Usually its her bed or even behind a chair. As long as I break the visual, by telling her to go, she always is quiet. She hates not being in the middle of everything. 

    • Gold Top Dog
    One way to stop your dog from barking is, paradoxically, to teach your dog to bark! This training serves three purposes: first, it means you will be giving your dog positive attention for a certain period every day while you are training him to bark. Many dogs bark to get attention, and keep barking because the negative attention they get is still preferable to

    no attention at all. Training your dog to do anything is providing him with attention from you at an appropriate time, and may serve to reduce extraneous barking by making your dog feel appreciated and recognized by you.

    Secondly, teaching your dog to bark gives him some work to do, reducing boredom. Again, the mere fact of training gives you and your animal something to do together and gives him something challenging to learn. If your dog frequently gets bored, the kindest thing you can do is to work with him every day (even if it’s only for a few minutes) on some sort of training.

    Lastly, when you teach your dog to “speak”, you follow up his learning that skill by teaching him to “hush”). By rewarding your dog when he barks because you asked him to, you are also teaching him that he should bark when you say so. (It’s a slight distinction to us, but it means something to the dog). If he barks when you don’t tell him to, he hasn’t learned the rules of the game yet. So first, teach him to bark. Then teach him to be quiet.

    You can teach most dogs to bark by using food as reinforcement. Hold a piece of his favorite snack up where he can see it, and say, “Speak!” (or “Speak, Fifi!", or whatever his name is.). If your dog is inclined to bark for general self-expression, he will probably bark to ask you to give up the snack. When he barks right after you say, “Speak!”, give him the treat and tell him what a good dog he is. (It’s important to use both reinforcements of food and praise because one day you want him to obey without being bribed with treats. Otherwise, your pockets will always smell of liver bits.) Practice “Speak” daily until he understands that when you say, “Speak!” he should bark in order to get a treat. If he barks when you haven’t asked him to immediately beforehand, don’t give him a treat; ignore the bark.

    Next, teach him to stop barking. Ask him to speak and let him bark repeatedly until you say, “hush” and he (eventually and after much prompting from you), hushes. Then and only then, give him the treat. Now he is learning that when he stops barking, he gets a treat. Practice having your dog speak and hush for ten minutes once or twice every day until you can feel confident that he understands and will follow both commands. How long this takes depends on two things; you, and your dog. If you really do practice with your dog every single day, you’re going to see much faster results than if you just do it a couple of times a week. Think about it: you and your dog are basically studying together, and he needs to practice new skills over and over on a consistent basis in order to really remember them and perform them correctly. All things being equal, if you work with your dog every day, you’ll be seeing good results by the end of the first week, and you’ll probably be feeling quite confident by the end of the second. Now you’re getting somewhere!

    (If you seriously work with your dog for two weeks and you’re still having problems getting him to speak and hush, your dog may have an unusual problem. Either there’s a big dominance issue between the two of you, or there may be a physical interference, such as pain, hearing loss or illness. Discuss the problem with your vet, and if your dog’s check-up seems to be fine, invest in a trainer who can watch you together and spot problems that the layperson might not see.)

    Once you feel your dog has grasped the idea that he gets a treat once the barking stops, you are on your way to being able to reward him for not barking at all. This is tricky, because now we’re talking about the way you have been conditioned to respond to your dog’s noisiness. At this point, you have to learn to respond to your dog’s silence! The problem with silence is, it’s easy to ignore it, because it doesn’t intrude on you the way unwanted sound does. So once you’ve moved into this final stage of training, make an especial effort to be aware of times when your dog once used to bark, and reward him for his silence.

    If a dog who has always barked his brains out every time the mailman arrives stops barking at the mailman, take a moment to encourage his new behavior. Tell him what a good dog he is. In the beginning, you may even want to keep a few treats by the door so you can offer him a substantial bribe for giving up that old, bad habit. If the force of habit is too strong for him, help him out with a training reminder: say, “hush” and when he stops barking, give him a treat and encourage him.

    Once in awhile a dog takes a real and personal offense to the mailman, and the barking is more than just to get your attention: he’d really like to eat the mailman. If the usual bark prevention methods aren’t putting a dent in the drama around daily mail delivery, talk to the postal employee yourself. If you have a mail slot, you can try simple bribery to change your pet’s mind. Arrange to leave dog treats outside the door, sealed in a coffee can to keep them dry and animal-proof. When the mailman arrives, he can first push a treat through the mail slot, then follow up with the mail. Dogs are open-minded about using food to create and solidify friendships!

    The mailman is a great example for targeted desensitization training. If your otherwise good dog goes berzerk over a particular person or thing, focus on that thing and work on it. Now that you have the power of Bark Prevention Training working for you, you can target specific areas and solve the problems that have been bothering you all along.

    In the case of the mailman, you can work with your dog every day around the time the mail comes. If you can, have your dog “sit” right before he would normally start barking, and give him a treat and some praise for a good sit. This is good in two ways: it gives him something else to occupy his attention, and it’s harder to bark with a treat in his mouth. If he starts to bark anyway, tell him to “hush”, and give him a treat once he’s stayed hushed for five seconds. Your goal is to keep him sitting and hushed, so have a few treats on hand. Maintain eye contact with him the whole time the postman is there and until after he’s gone next door. You’re letting your dog know there’s a new routine for the postman, and that you’re serious about the routine. Don’t turn your attention to anything else –if the phone rings, ignore it.

    If your dog has been barking at the postman for years and years, don’t expect him to give it up after a few lessons. Expect to make this routine part of your routine for at least a month – and that’s with daily practice! But focus on your goal.One day in the not-too-distant future, when the postman arrives, your dog will sit down and wait quietly for him to leave.

    Obviously, the postman in the example above could also be the Culligan man, the garbage man, the Avon “man”, the Girl Scout “man”. It’s much harder to train specifically when the visit is unanticipated, but if your dog barks at anyone who comes to the door, you can also practice intensively by having a friend come to the door about ten times a day for the weekend, using the same “sit” and “hush” technology described above.

    1. Teach to “speak”.
      Make eye contact: get your dog’s attention
      Hold the treat where he can say it
      Say, “Speak”
      When he speaks, give him the treat and praise him.
      Repeat repeatedly! Practice daily until he can speak on command.

    2. Train to “hush”
      Tell dog to “speak” and encourage him to keep barking.
      Say, “hush”. If he stops right then, praise him and give him the treat.
      If he doesn’t stop right away, repeat the command to hush until he does.
      Wait a few seconds to make sure he’s staying hushed, then praise and give him the treat.
      Practice daily!
      Expect it to take some time!

    3. Use bribes to help your dog like people he has barked at before. Have the postman push a treat through the door whenever delivering mail.

    4. For specific people or situations, use targeted training after teaching “speak” and “hush”.
      Make eye contact: get your dog’s attention
      Just before he would usually start to bark, tell him to “sit”. When he does, give him a treat and praise him.
      When he starts to bark, tell him to “hush”. When he does, praise and treat.
      If he starts barking again, remind him to hush, and praise and treat when he does.
      Practice daily, and expect it to take some weeks! (Not hours, not days; weeks).

    5. Pay attention and reward your dog when he’s quiet instead of barking. Notice his changed behavior and continue to reward it.

    6. This info comes from stopdogfrombarking.com

    • Moderators
    • Gold Top Dog

    Check out how Carol Lea Benjamin teaches "Enough"

    • Gold Top Dog

    It's interesting because that's exactly the word I *do* use .. "Hush!!" (I used to use it when I taught 5th grade as well LOL)

    But the point I'll make which may be different than most is at my house the rule is "No barking".  Period. 

    You know people say to me "but dogs are DOGS -- they bark!"

    Not where I live.  In my city you'll get a ticket in a heartbeat for a barking dog.  Get cited because they barked "seven minutes" twice and you will LOSE your dog.  I can *not* afford that.  I won't risk their lives like that. (and I live 2 blocks from the police station!)

    They are allowed one or two barks to 'alert' us -- we tell them "Thanks, now WE will take care of it". 

    I don't ignore barking until it stops.  I can *not* for the above reasons.  I can't even let it GET started.  If I have to, in order to get that dog's attention I will go TO them and simply shut the mouth with my thumb under the chin and my fingers over the top of the muzzle.  Tip the head up to get eye contact and say "No."

    I use positive reinforcement as much as possible, but it's simply that Altamonte is strict to the letter of their law and I'm SO close to the city building and police dept it's not funny.

    When they bark I get up and go TO them.  I don't waste time and motion on ineffectual yelling of 'come here'.  It's not gonna happen.  You go check it out -- if you have to snap a leash on and take them out to 'see' what's going on.  Use that protective instinct and show them that you DO care. 

    Those on here who simply train 'behaviors' think I talk too much and the dogs don't 'listen' to it.  But I can promise you they do.  They all know when they come in here right from the start that you don't bark.  If you bark in your crate when I come home you don't get out.  I'll ignore that until I let everbuddy else out -- then I'll tell them I can't let you out when you bark (I can't touch them either in that case or it would reinforce it and give attention I don't want to give). 

    Tink barked up a storm when she first came here -- but quickly they notice that no one gets pets, love, good words from Mom nor Dad if you bark. In fact, they are pretty unhappy about it. 

    I don't actively 'ignore' bad behavior -- I don't "do" anything overtly negative but I *do* make negative noises.  "No".  "I am SO disappointed!" or similar.  (that word "disappointed" -- you can draw that out for 25 syllables if you need to.  you can get a ton of mileage out of a word like that because you can make the word SOUND *disappointed*!!!)

    But my point is consistency is the key -- I don't 'teach' barking ... because it's never ok unless there is literally an emergency.  They get one or two barks to 'tell' me and that's all they need because I'm ON it.  But beyond that -- barking is just plain not allowed.  They can 'talk' they can whine if need be -- but not bark.  Not at all.

    No, it doesn't take all their dogginess away to not let them bark -- it does ensure that they keep their happy home! 

    I would love to run off at the mouth and tell certain city officials what I think of them, but I can't 'bark' at them either!   I don't yell, scream or play my stereo loud -- and it doesn't really inhibit my life at all and it keeps my neighbors happy. 

    You can't let them bark *some* of the time and then magically wind them down again.  And that's often what barking does -- it winds them up.  There's no magic "relax" button -- but if you teach the dogs that you ARE listening to them, often they will discover there is no need TO bark. 

    You'll be amazed if you try it.  If you get up and go TO that window and make the dog *stop* barking but check it out.  "Ahhh, I see -- that's Mrs. Miller taking out her trash! She's making a lot of noise huh?  But that's ok -- she lives there! No barking".

    Do they understand all my words?  Nope they don't -- BUT likely they've heard Mrs. Miller's name.  likely after you do this 100 times they'll be familiar with the comforting tone of your voice when you "explain" what's going on.  But even more so they will **understand** that you are ON it.  They don't need to bark ad nauseum because *YOU* are in control of it. 

    Many times the dog who barks excessively doesn't feel like it's people are in control of their environment.  Either they are bored and 'talking' to other dogs, or they think they have to try to 'scare' something away or maybe bark incessantly to try in vain to make YOU do something.  If you get up and go TO the dog, check out the situation and assess it you'll be surprised.  That dog now has a JOB.  That dog now knows that if it brings something to your attention you'll DO something about it.

    But inside or out -- the rule has to be the same.  You can't let them just bark bark bark in play and expect them to magically wind down and stop barking because you say so.  You can't let them bark for 2 minutes and then stop (because by then they ARE wound up).  Cut it off fast -- faster than a 'few' barks.  One or two is sufficient if YOU act.

    That's a p.i.t.a. frankly because that means you gotta get up from TV or whatever and go see what's bugging the dog.  But it DOES pay off.

    • Gold Top Dog

     Everyone THANK YOU!  Lots of good advice here.  I'll be going through it and talking with the SO to see what makes the most sense for Ari.  Again thank you a million times over.