Turid Rugaas - My Dog Pulls. What Do I Do?

    • Gold Top Dog

    Turid Rugaas - My Dog Pulls. What Do I Do?

    Anyone read this book? What do you think of her dog walking philosophy? No harnesses, head halters or collars. And certainly no prongs or chokes.

    You would never be able to participate in a Obedience Competition if you followed her advice. She doesn't seem to care if the dog is walking way ahead of you just as long as the dog isn't pulling. I prefer to keep my dog by my side at around 11 o'clock... that's at a position where I can just see him. I know a lot of you guys prefer this position too. She also recommends a long leash. That I can understand. For those times when it's time to "go sniff."

    There are some good tips in it... but I'm just not sure I entirely agree. Using a anti-pulling harness can be a great tool. And what would you do with a super high energy dog? I have walked these kind of dogs at the shelter and I'm not sure I'd ever get to train them using Turid Rugaas's way! It would take too long. And the dogs aren't there long enough to do this.

    • Gold Top Dog

    I like her philosophy. I'm not opposed to using alternate collars or harnesses when safety requires it (strong under trained dog,  or physically compromised human) but the ideal in my mind is having a dog you can walk on a flat collar. And for our walks, my dogs can walk anywhere they please as long as they aren't pulling. Front, back, left, right. I don't care. And sniffing is encouraged.

    Its been a while since I read the book - its somewhere in my piles of reading material - but I don't remember anything that would preclude also training a dog for obedience?  

    • Silver

    I've never heard of her...Huh? All I know is that I myself like a well trained dog that is in close proximity to my leg when in the heeling position and for general walkies, a dog to be near me but not ahead. 

    • Gold Top Dog

    I walk my dogs on long lines and encourage them to walk ahead of me so I can see them- it's hard to walk down a narrow trail or sidewalk with a couple of big dogs in heel position-  and yes, they could participate in an obedience competition- because there is a big difference between Heel and Loose leash walking, they are completely different behaviors. That said, it does take time to teach a dog to properly Loose leash walk and if you're dealing with shelter dogs or a confirmed puller I say throw on the no-pull equipment. I have to say I found Turid's method to be useless for us though due to once again the fact that our trails are narrow. You can't turn and go somewhere else, there's only one way to go. Be a tree works fine for such trails.

    • Gold Top Dog

    mudpuppy

    -  and yes, they could participate in an obedience competition- because there is a big difference between Heel and Loose leash walking, they are completely different behaviors.

    So you're saying to train your dog two different ways. But isn't consistency always best? If I started training my dog to walk way ahead of me, then he'd get used to that. I like him to walk "with" me.

    Also, Turid doesn't like collars because she thinks they are dangerous. I'd be interested in hearing what you all think of that!

    • Gold Top Dog

    ShelterDogs
    So you're saying to train your dog two different ways. But isn't consistency always best?

     

    I'm consistent - I don't go ANYWHERE unless that lead is slack.  And when I say "Heel" - watch them fall back into a heel position and watch me closely, expecting a high value reward any second now any second now...... I don't use "heel" ALL the time, only if I NEED them right by me and under my close control and occasionally just as "practise".  They are not confused Smile

    • Gold Top Dog

    My girls walk ahead of me on walks and the older dog has a fabulous competition style heel.  The younger dog is getting there.  For pulling on walks I reward position (wherever the leash is loose on my left side) and do the "be a tree" thing; for heeling I do a "choose to heel" method that rewards position off leash first then adds the leash in.  Totally different "pictures" for the dogs, but it works great.

    As to collars - I think you'll find that anything we use to retrain a dog is going to have dangers associated.  I use martigales on walks, harnesses on long lines, and a quick release safety collar around the house to minimize dangers (escapes on flat collars, quick stops on collars, and getting caught on things in collars and harnesses respectively).

    • Gold Top Dog

    It sounds to me as if she is speaking ideally and not for this era.

    Her methods sound great but in city life with tons of people and other dogs it dosnt seem so realistic.

    Not to mention we have way more problematic dogs, leash reactive, off leash dogs, and undersocialized dogs. In addition you gotta consider the people....everyone nowadyas wants instant gratification and cant take the time to properly train their dogs, its sad. But thats why so many revert to training collars and whatnot.

    Sounds like a book for the 50's.

    • Gold Top Dog

    AuroraLove

    Her methods sound great but in city life with tons of people and other dogs it dosnt seem so realistic.

    Not to mention we have way more problematic dogs, leash reactive, off leash dogs, and undersocialized dogs.

    I haven't read the book, but from what I've heard my method for teaching Cherokee not to pull is pretty similar. Cherokee, an undersocialized, leash reactive, very problematic dog...walks perfectly now. "Perfectly" to me means not pulling. I don't give a rat's behind where she is on her 6' leash as long as she's not pulling my arm out of the socket.

    I don't live in the city..but a pretty urban area.

    I think you can't really knock something, namely positive training methods, til you try it.

    • Gold Top Dog

    ShelterDogs

    mudpuppy

    -  and yes, they could participate in an obedience competition- because there is a big difference between Heel and Loose leash walking, they are completely different behaviors.

    So you're saying to train your dog two different ways. But isn't consistency always best? If I started training my dog to walk way ahead of me, then he'd get used to that. I like him to walk "with" me.

     

    Yes, consistency is always important, but loose leash walking is not the same as heeling.  Kenya competes in obedience and has three different "heel" type commands.  To her, they are three different things, even though for the observer all three involve us walking and her not pulling. 

    "Come along" = loose leash walking and I use it for everyday walking.  Dog at my left or out front, NO pulling or taught leashes, no random stopping or zigzagging, other than that I don't really care if she's a few lengths ahead of me, sniffing the ground.  If she's off leash, she can be ahead of me (so I can see her) as long as she is responsive to my commands ("stop wait" "come";).
     

    "Hup" or "Heel" = heel I use for Rally Obedience.  Dog on the left, dog's front legs should be relatively even with my shoulders but slight forging and lagging is fine, dog does not have to be touching my side.
     

    "Fuss" = formal heel for SchH.  Dog on the left, dog's front legs MUST be even with the handler's shoulders, dog holds eye contact (handler can turn and look at other things but the dog holds focus on the handler), dog turns, pivots, and changes paces fluidly.
     

     

    For me the difference between a "come along" and a "Fuss" is no less than the difference between asking the dog to sit or asking for a left finish. 

    • Gold Top Dog

    So you're saying to train your dog two different ways. But isn't consistency always best

    I'm afraid I don't even see the connection between heeling and going for a walk. Nor do the dogs. Obedience-style heeling starts with a command, and continues until a "stop heeling" command is given and frequently doesn't involve a leash. Walking on a loose leash is just good manners and doesn't require any commands.

    • Gold Top Dog

    I was going to be a smarty-pants and say get him a pulling harness and a gangline and have him pull a sled. Actually, there are weight pulling competitions. My dog was born to pull. And I have it on cue and I didn't even use treats. Mushing (dog sledding commands.) Hike means go, haw means left, gee means right, and hook (short for hook and break) means stop. So, others have given good advice.

    It's up to you as to how you train or what equipment you use. One owner here used a prong for a while and put it away once the desired effect was in place and easily reinforced with rewards. So, you might have a combo of corrective equipment and reward training for the desired walking style.

    For me, using a variety of treats, from store bought baked little nothings, to smoked brisket and loin pork chop I have had my dog, born to pull hard and run fast out in front, walk in heel. And LLW. It can be done and it does require training.

     

    • Gold Top Dog

    Agreed. Totally different behaviors. My titled dog walks way in front of me, at dog shows. I don't care one little bit, as long as she flies into a heel when I ask for it. I even use a Flexi and let her drag me on a harness. She loves itWink She's also a smidge under 20 lbs, and doesn't hurt me when she pulls.

    • Gold Top Dog

    This effective, pain- and gimmick-free method of teaching loose leash walking is not really a creation of the author - you'll find it in other positive training books under names like "Be a Tree" or "Red Light Green Light." However, Rugaas explains it very well and adds an element that will really benefit you and the dog.

    As for pulling I have to disagree with Ron here, my dog is training for draft and mushing and this is a totally different training.  River can draft pretty well but pull is another story.

     

    This is fun, see the smile?

     

    This is not so much fun - no way am I moving?

    • Gold Top Dog

    I was hoping to see your pics but they didn't post.

    What happened?