Aggressive puppy

What you have is a normal pup.  He's not agressive, he's not dominant, he's a puppy.
 
You truly don't have to eat first, nor go through doorways first, not to teach him who's in charge.  Stop being so concerned about proving that you are in charge and just apply clear and consistent boundaries and he'll be fine.  This nippy stage is perfectly normal and HIS way of trying to get you to play....and everytime you push him away you are INVITING him to play more.  So he does..the only way he knows how, which is with his teeth.
 
When I foster a litter I ALWAYS have a fanny pack full of goodies to exchange for whatever part of my body someone decides to knaw on.  I say a very gentle....uh uh, no bite and give them something OK to chew on telling them THIS is what you can bite and then praise them for chewing on that and not me.  Ignoring is a powerful tool also.....many is the time that I have walked across a room with 7 pups attached to my pants, socks and shoes....I just keep going.  An EXCELLENT tool to have is a good supply of raw marrow bones....just be sure to remove most of the marrow at first so the richness of it doesn't cause diaherra.  I start pups on marrow bones by 5 weeks of age and really save my skin by doing so.  I don't react to biting of me anymore than that gentle, uh uh, no bite and the replacement, so it becomes not so much fun.  Plus, I always have tons and tons of bones laying around.
 
What you are calling agression is just normal puppy zoomies.
 
Relax and enjoy your little stinker.  The first few weeks are honestly the most trying!

Not Jekyll and Hyde,,, just a normal puppy from two high energy breeds.  This behavior is typical puppy stuff.  Get in a puppy kindergarten class as soon as possible.  Check out the following website,  read the information and start doing the exercises.
[linkhttp://www.hollysden.com/basic%201_&_pup%20lessons.htm]http://www.hollysden.com/basic%201_&_pup%20lessons.htm[/link]
 
In most cases, people do not read the signs things are getting crazy nor do they wait long enough for the strategy they have selected to work.  You need to pick specific strategies and behaviors to teach alternative behaviors and use management strategies for the others.  One option, use a drag line in the garden.  You can step on it and reel him in if he is too wild.  When he is calmer, release the lead and let him wander. 
 
Calm and collected on your part will go a long way to helping your puppy develop the manners and behaviors that will make him a welcome member of your family and the community at large.

The times he is displaying the bhvr are typically the times most puppies need to eliminate - might this be attention seeking because hes trying to say he needs to go out?  Take him out very quickly after meals, playing, chewing and napping before the bhvr starts and see if it makes a difference.
 
I don't understand why you think he is being aggressive - the biting is normal puppy bhvr and if you follow glenmars advice you'll be ok.....  What else is he doing that makes you think he is being aggressive?
 
Yelling "OUCH!" and walking away is usually quite effective, but only if the puppy has had an alternative option made very clear to him first.  Plain fact of the matter is, he has to bite SOMETHING.  I do what glenmar does for a few days, maybe a week, then I stop offering the alternative, I just make sure there are plenty of chewies freely available.  If he nips I say "ouch" and walk away without saying anything else or looking at him.  Pushing at him is a form of retaliation which can turn into what the pup thinks is a cool game.  It can quickly spiral out of control. 
 
His gums mihgt be hurting him - what are you offering him to help with teething?  Try freezing the following before you give them to him and they should be preferable to your fingers (or furniture)

• Sticks of carrot
  
• Pigs ears, bullies, rawhie chews
  
• Any proper sized bone (not too much marrow though)
  
• Moistened rope toys
  
• Small yoghurt pots of pulped raw veg
  
• A well stuffed kong

Ours also love ice cubes - cheap and clean!

thank you Glenmar, mrv and Chuffy, we really appreciate your help.[]

you are welcome,,, we have all been there.

Oh and forgot to mention re the bone - RAW ones.  Cooked, sterilised or smoked bones can be dangerous

ORIGINAL: Maverick3141

We try to gently push him away, but whatever we use to move him he attacks (eg arms, hands etc).

Well thats because you dont really mean what you want to communicate and i am not saying to push him away with a kick either but the puppy is not taking you seriously, you  have to mean what you want the dog to realize, you can still push him away but dont do it with a "please dont because you hurt me baby" attitude but like "hey that hurts and is not allowed here"

NILIF program is a great resource for the future in case he is older and keeps doing the same wihout being a puppy anymore

Pushing a dog away (especially a playful puppy) is initiating play in dog language. It's what I use to GET mine to rough play with me lol...

There are great books out there that will help you. Lots of them at libraries. Just look for those that encourage non-physical interactions. Your puppy is at an age where impressions can be lifelong. Trust me--I have one now who got lots of physical "I mean it" interactions and he's working really hard to be more trustworthy with people--but it's taken a LOT of work and I brought him home when he was 2 years old.
 
Labradoodles will be mouthy--they're half Lab. The "ouch" thing works wonders. What you've read is right on here--aside from espencer's comment about meaning it--please don't worry about being physical yet--your dog is barely 2 months old! (I'm sure you were just typing fast there, espencer.)
 
Know that this is the time they want so badly to be with you and use that to your advantage. Before too long, they'll want to test the independent waters, so be prepared. Get your puppy to love being around you.
 
Only one comment about raw bones--be very careful about adding to or taking from his diet so that you don't upset his stomach. Believe me--that will only upset you more than it does him if/when his stomach is upset so just take that in small bites--for what it's worth.
 
Nancy

ORIGINAL: espencer

ORIGINAL: Maverick3141

We try to gently push him away, but whatever we use to move him he attacks (eg arms, hands etc).

Well thats because you dont really mean what you want to communicate and i am not saying to push him away with a kick either but the puppy is not taking you seriously, you  have to mean what you want the dog to realize, you can still push him away but dont do it with a "please dont because you hurt me baby" attitude but like "hey that hurts and is not allowed here"

NILIF program is a great resource for the future in case he is older and keeps doing the same wihout being a puppy anymore

Pushing a puppy away sends him the message that you either want to play or you are being aggressive.  Either message creates a situation where he will continue his nipping and jumping.  Instead, take the advice you got from Glenda, mrv and Chuffy. Another hint: play fetch games with tennis balls, if he will go after them - don't worry if he won't bring them back yet.  All you are trying to do is get him a little tired.  Be sure he is getting plenty of play with other puppies - they teach each other to inhibit their bites.  So, if you aren't already in puppy class, do it now! 

In my experience puppies at that age are too young to be aggressive.
 
My youngest one is still teething like there is no tomorrow, he loves the chicken flavored Nylabones, after it's been in the freezer.
 
Good luck.

Another great chewy....old washrags.  Tie a couple knots in them, get them wet and freeze them.  These are wonderful for soothing those poor gums.  I always tie knots so that I don't later have to retrieve MY faceclothes from dogs...if there is no knot, it's MINE......

We did the same thing you are for nipping - a loud "ouch!" and then ignore. If he is still biting your ankles while you ignore, you could up the ante by moving into another room and closing the door for 15 sec. I think ignoring undesired behaviour is the best cure.

ORIGINAL: snownose

In my experience puppies at that age are too young to be aggressive.

My youngest one is still teething like there is no tomorrow, he loves the chicken flavored Nylabones, after it's been in the freezer.

Good luck.

There are a few puppies in whom we see early signs of aggressiveness, but they are very few indeed.  However, a puppy displaying normal nipping and exploratory behavior can easily be turned into an aggressive pup by inappropriate handling and training, so it's really important not to set the pup up for failure.  Giving him an appropriate chew object is great.  My dogs liked raw marrow bones best, but you need to start those slowly (scoop most of the marrow out - they can get really bad diarrhea if they get too much at first, as it's really rich).  Also, at first, you would want to hold the bone (pup perceives it as belonging to the leader, who is just sharing), and trade him back for it by offering a bit of roast beef or chicken, so that he understands that it it profitable for him to give you his possessions without being nasty about it.  It also prevents you from grabbing his stuff away, or out of his mouth, which can lead to food aggression.  You can also "trade" for the objects he accidentally gets hold of that you don't want him to have - that also prevents aggression, and prevents him swallowing a dangerous object because you have "given chase" and he wants to keep it. []