PLEASE HELP - About to give up...

What do you feed this guy? If you are feeding a food with lots of grains, he may be on a sugar high. Check you food label, if cornis on it, or any grain is high on the list, you may want to try something with less carbs. Carbs turn to sugar, and some dogs do not tolerate them well. Thus, a sugar high.

Sue (may I call you Sue?) Has excellent advice.
 
I own a Plott hound/whippet mix - you can imagine the energy.
 
In the past year I put her on a high protein, low glycemic index food and I really think it has helped her hyperactivity a lot. More exercise = more protein needed, and slow release carbs = no blood sugar spikes =  less craziness. Innova EVO and Solid Gold Barking at the Moon are great formulas both....
 
However, GSB, if your pup has a larger breed in him (I think I saw Lab? Can't remember if you mentioned it), I would hold off cause these food may cause him to "outgrow his joints" so to speak - but DEFINITELY keep it in mind for the future.
 
 
 
 

So many replies-sorry I was gone for the weekend.  My wife dealt with the little man (THANK YOU BABY!)
 
Where to start?- I'm not asking all of you tailor your responses to make them whazt I want to hear, I just don't need any negativity toiwards me right now.
 
We practice NILIF to an extent.  I try and make him work for everything.  He wants a toy - he must sit.  He wants food - down. He wants out of his area-sit.  Petting - sit.  So I try to make him work for everything.  I think that is what NILIF is.
 
We thought about bringing in a professional trainer to the house (Bark Busters, etc.), but it was just too expesive and I didn't think it would help change the way our dog is.  I just feel he will be aggressive and spazzy forever.  No trainer is going to change that.  I feel its instilled in his inner brain workings, if you will. (dont yell at me for saying that, just how I feel.)
 
We are working hard on training and exercise, unfortunatley it has been so damn hot around here (Chicago), that it has been hard to get him enough.  We try and play some fetch games in the house, we have a wide open area through connecting rooms.
 
We are feeding him Dick Van Patton's Natural Balance as our food.  We started out on Science Diet, but he stopped eating that.  He is starting to not eat this too, so just add another thing to the problem list.
 
we had class on Thur. and he did quite well.  We tired him out beofre and fed him very little after noon (class was 6pm) so he was tired but hungry.  We had a few "incidents" (barking and going after othe rdogs), but it was his best class yet.  Tiring him out before class is definetly the way to go!  He was rather obedient, and we even did the walk around the entire training area with the rest of the class!
 
Anyway, I'm trying to stay positive and give him 110%, but the times when there is nothing to do (like walk, swim, sleep, etc.) are extremely tough.  The btiting and cat chasing and barking continue.  He is starting to refuse to go on walks with me, but will go with my wife, go figure.
 
Thanks again for all the replies and I will keeep updating this post.  Any other ideas on training and what not are appreciated.

Hey, not gettin' on you, but I do have an observation.

You are giving him an awful lot of power and looking at this like it's work, which makes him more powerful. Don't get me wrong, I know that it is work (I have a puppy too), but at my house we try to remember and tell one another that we are the humans. If he's not eating his food, that's tough. He won't die if he misses a couple of meals figuring out that this is what's for dinner. If he is totally freaking out, maybe the best response is to put a leash on him and tie the leash to the table leg and let him settle himself down.

You have the opposable thumbs and the bigger brain and the money--you will win if you let yourself!

I mean, it's a tough balance because he is a baby and doesn't really know how to act and does need guidance, but what are you teaching him by letting your world revolve around him? My DH and I figured out pretty recently that if we didn't ever leave the dog be, and if we were always proactive, he would never figure out how to entertain himself nicely, how to be alone well, how to not be ON all the time.

We ignore the dog every day now. This was not an easy practice to start--it made for some nasty tantrums that were horrible to sit through. But they ended quicker than we thought they would. And it makes a huge difference in his behavior. We kind of have lives now.

PS: your dog is whoever you make him to a certain extent. If this crazy behavior keeps working for him, he'll keep doing it. If the behavior stops working for him, he will probably stop whatever it is and do something else. I would take a training class, the expense is nothing compared to the pain in your posts. You're not having any fun, and a class could really give you the skills to make it fun.

Think of it this way: nobody is born knowing how to communicate the rules of a household to a dog that doesn't speak English and isn't even human.

Oh, sorry, wasn't reading post well. Great that you are taking a class! You getting the skills you need from it? I am confused about why the dog did poorly when he was hungry--we were asked specifically to bring a hungry dog. What kind of class are you taking?

Gbjork50 - Fisher6000 gave you a really great piece of advice and that was to ignore the pup (I know - you're thinking "yeah right, it's hard to ignore him when he's attached to my face!").  This is part of that book that I suggested earlier from Jan Fennell.  We practice this daily and I really think it calms down an overactive, overstimulated puppy.  Whenever we reunite we completely ignore the puppies for the first five minutes or so (We have TWO puppies).  No eye contact, no talking, no touching except to gently push them down if they jump.  They quickly learn that jumping, barking, yelping does NOTHING and they stop.  There have been days when I've forgotten to do it and there is a considerable change in their behavior.  I even practice this if I'm out of the room for a few minutes.  When we come home and take them out of their crates to go to the bathroom we don't speak or make eye contact, just take them out.  When visitors come they are asked to also ignore the puppies for the first few minutes they're here.  Some thought I was nuts but they quickly saw the results.  I swear to you that this works wonders to calm the craziness down. I really do understand your frustration and wish you the best and for what it's worth, I think you are doing great and seeking out advice is very humbling, I know.  But it is definitely a relationship that is worth all this crap.  I promise. Christi

jones and mythreesonsohio have hit the nail on the head.  The fact is that most normal people are shocked at how much exercise a normal, fifteen week old pup of any breed needs, never mind one that is a combo of two high energy breeds.  That's why, sadly, these are the dogs that often end up in shelters dead.  Another sad detail is that they are also dogs that, had their owners done appropriate and realistic research about breeds, they might not have gotten such a dog.  Most people are better off with Shih Tzus than Sheepdogs, LOL, but they all want Lassie.  Well, Lassie wasn't born, she (or, he, to be more accurate) was made - through much training and exercise. 
This little guy sounds like a handful, but IMO if he has jumped on your trainer repeatedly, the trainer is not good at addressing the problem.  Dogs in my class usually get one try at me - if they continue, they get my foot stepping on their leash, so they can't jump up, plus they get to do some "puppy pushups".  (sit-lie down-sit-lie down - sit, etc.)  Pushups help the dog see me as a leader, and they tire him out mentally and physically)   If necessary, I fit active dogs with a Gentle Leader or an Easy Walk Harness so that they aren't dragging their handlers around the room. 
Clicker training is great because you aren't having to man-handle the dog.  He is electing to perform, so that he will get his reward.
If you are interested in this kind of training, visit [linkhttp://www.clickertraining.com.]www.clickertraining.com.[/link]
Oh, and BTW, the gundog guy farther up the thread has a forum, on which there seems to be a lot of conversation about shock collars.  I'd rather see you rehome the dog than go that route with a pet.

I read your post earlier on and didn't repond at that time.  I have been following on and off since.  I am sure that I will only summerize what others have said but here it goes.  First let me say that I raised many dogs in my life being a farm girl but they were all Mutts and very subordinate.  Not mixed breed like you have, two pure breeds but dogs that were mixed up time and time again.  My behaviorlist swears that mixed breeds take the good genes and pure breeds always take the dominate genes which are the what they were breed for.  With that said, you have two very good hunting dogs who want nothing more than to run and chase and tree and retrieve.   When we purchased our first Greater Swiss many years ago we were in for a rude awakening.  He is prime working dog a farm dog with strong leadership genes.  My husband MANY TIMES said, he is going to drive me nuts I wish we never got him - and he meant it.  When ever he was out of his crate and in the house he got into everything even after we puppy proofed.  He was a mouther, a jumper, a growler etc. etc. etc.  Now, I own two Greater Swiss Mountain Dogs -and my husband would own nothing else!!  They are the best dogs.
 
The puppy stage for any dog is long and tiring but for you and an active hunting dog it is going to be hard work.  If you are not already, crate train.  Use the crate as a solice when you can't take no more.  It was a savior for us.  Try swimming, coon dogs swim and so do labs this may be a good way to exercise him extensively.  Dogs that are breed to do a job MUST have a job so besides all the general puppy advise given here try and find something this little guy would like to do.  Since he is coon dog try hanging a stuff animal from a tree where you have a rope and control the stuffed animal.  Don't allow your pup to obsess over it but use it to train him.  Have him sit and stay on leash while you dangle the toy, once he calms down an responds to your wishes give him a release command and allow him to tree it.  Call him come and have him sit again.  Dangle the animal and release when he is calm again and allow him to play the part again and again.  By playing this game he will learn both obdience and he can work as he was breed to do.
 
As for all the normal puppy stuff.  Follow NILIF 100%, not somewhat and IGNORE bad behavior.  Put him in the crate if he won't repond to you.  Use possitive reinforcement not punishment.  You have a long road since puppyhood really gets better with maturity.  It took my dogs until they were around 13 months old that I saw real improvement.  Its getting through these stages with NILIF, training classes and IGNORING bad behavior that will keep you sane.
 
Your not crazy, it is tuff and you will get through it I promise.  Use the crate, don't be afraid that you are being mean if you decide you need piece and quite - it is ok.

I too want to encourage you to hang in there.  I agree with positive reinforcements for good behaviour.  You really have to get "silly" with good dog praises.  They really need to feel it when they are leasing you. I have shared my life with 2 coonhounds in the past and rescued several more.  One thing that I agree with is exercise.  They have got to fulfill their need to run and track.  Some of the hounds I rescued were laid back porch sitters others where psycho about going out to work.  Fortunately I have always had big yards and lived in the mountains so they could fulfill what they were breed to do.  As for the biting.  My "baby" is a pit/hound/heeler cross (8 yrs old now).  I rescued him when he was 3 months old. He bit me on the lip the first night and that was the last time.  I gave him lots of praise when he was being good and ignored him and made him go away when he was being bad.  He is a high energy dog, runs like the wind, and very loyal.  He goes everywhere with me.  If the truck door is open he will get in and sit there waiting to go somewhere. I am his pack.  Another area you might want to consider is his diet.  I talked to a man who ran hounds and he said that they are fed a special diets to increase their energy and stamina in the fields. I wonder if it was some high protein mix.  If so, I would feed the opposite to calm them down.  It might be worth looking into. 

fisher6000- no, the going Hungry to training worked great.  Sorry if I mislead.  He was doing whatever I said to get those treats during class.  And when he jumps on the trainer, they do make him do push-ups.  Its not like they ar e"oh good boy, such a good boy!".  They back away, ignore him, then make him do tasks.  I am going to one of the most respected trainers in our area.
 
We continue to fight the good fight.  We have a ten day vacation planned that we are taking him on, so this should be very interesting.  We are bringing his crate, and we are making him spend roughly 2 hours a day 3 times a day in there currently.  This has helped.  We were just letting him in his Area (8x10 laundry area), but now we make him go in his crate for those periods of time.
 
I think the main problem here is we are letting him control us, instead of vice versa.  We need to be more consistent with both good and bad behavior and make sure we reward positive things he does and ignore the bad things he does.
 
Thanks again for the replies.
 
 

Hi gbjork50! I'm new here. Was looking for advice on dealing with hyperactive jumping, biting puppy and your post caught my attention. You're not alone! We have a 7 month old golden with similar issues. We've been through 2 clicker training classes. Was beginning to think harsher methods were necessary.
 
I know what you mean about the face biting. Buttercup hasn't actually bitten, but she has snapped. I talked it over with the instructors and we came to the conclusion it wasn't aggression, but play. But either way she has to learn not to do it. They told me to do the same thing you've been told. (Ignore it, walk away, etc--basically doggie cold shoulder--I think I was told leave the room for about 30 seconds)
 
I don't know how you manage to cope. We're fortunate that Buttercup's only hyper some of the time. When she's not hyper she's very gentle.
 
Anyway, here's a couple of things we've tried.
 
1. Isolation (ignore--walk away)--we were doing this especially for the biting. Jumping we usually just turned our back. We have had some success in this. Now when she's not hyper her bite is very soft, and when she is hyper it's not hard enough to break the skin. The main problem we had with this was her following right after us biting our clothes, hands, etc. What we had to do was have training sessions for bite inhibition in which we put her on her leash and tied it to the table so we actually could get away. She began to improve after a few sesssions of this. Have you done bite inhibition training? Now we've started on a no-bite cue of  "drop it"
 
2. Click to calm-- There's a book out there about clicking to calm. Do you clicker train? I haven't read the book but it's about dealing with agression. I figure if you can click to calm agression, why can't you click to calm hyper dogs? Don't know how much I can accomplish with this idea.  We use a no-pull harness for our pup and she used to be horrible (hyper, biting) about getting it on. Now I click and treat after I put it over her head, C & T after I snap it, and C & T when I put the leash on. It's working fabulously.
 
Buttercup also jumps and grabs the leash on our walk, so now I C & T whenever the leash passes in front of her face and she doesn't grab it. Also I make her "drop it" and "sit" (after I turn back around from turning my back) when she pulls that stuff. It's not easy. When I turn my back she follows me right around. Now I step on the leash. We're making some progress.
 
Thought these suggestions might help. At least you know your not alone. BTW, about the face biting. I know how easily it can happen. One day I was laying on the couch and she was a couple of feet away when it happened. A couple of times I have put her in her crate for it (more drastic isolation because I've found just leaving the room doesn't have much of an impact--she just finds something else to play with) However, I rarely go to that extent because I don't want her to hate her crate--just got fed up a couple of times.

You've got my complete sympathy, too. I haven't done a puppy for a long time, but I remember visiting my mother while she went through a few and all had their moments where I thought, ack, I'm glad this isn't mine! But, here I am, planning to get a puppy again. It really is worth it, and I think you might find that troublesome puppies are the ones that do grow into your best pal. I have a theory that when you've got a problem animal and you're trying everything just to try to live with it and the nightmare seems to go on and on, when you stick at it and try to find ways to solve each problem as it comes along, you bond with your animal much deeper than you would with an animal that's 'easy'. My hare was a nightmare as a baby and I spent months being woken up by him every morning at around 3am because he was bored and lonely and wanted attention. So many times I thought it was all going to fall apart and I'd have to send him away, but I stuck through it and worked harder and we've come to a pretty good place, now. I just wish he was cuddly like a dog! He won't let me touch anything but the top of his head, and then only sometimes. But all the hard work has paid off ten-fold and I've never been so attached to an animal.

So, remind yourself that your work will pay off, try to deal with one thing at a time if it starts to seem overwhelming. Have you tried Kong toys or hiding food around the house to tap into his scenting instincts? I think giving dogs something that takes a long time to eat is a good way to encourage them to learn how nice it can be to lie down and be quiet for a while! Think up ways to challenge his mind. You can use all sorts of things to help you out. You can hide treats in cardboard or wrap them up in an elaborate paper package. Paper and cardboard is safe to eat as long as it's not coated in ink, and it's very cheap. The dog might make a mess, but it doesn't take long to clean up and I figure it's worth it to have a dog that just took half an hour to pull it all to pieces and find the treats. It also gives them an outlet for the chewing and destroying things desires that they have. It's also fun to get really creative and design things for your pup to do that addresses his specific needs, and it gets you thinking about how your dog sees the world and therefore helps you to understand him. Good luck!

Incidentally, I think most people don't really appreciate just how much exercise a lot of dogs need. And you can do all the research you like and still end up with a particularly active individual that needs twice as much exercise as you were anticipating.

Thanks, Corvus. So right about the exercise. Also about keeping the mind busy. She didn't get too into her Kong, but she really loves her disc-type thing that you unscrew and fill with goodies.
 
Sorry gbjork50 if this is posted wrong. Not sure how to directly reply to Corvus.
 
Corvus, you had some great ideas. We used to let her run off leash, but then I had too many issues with that so I was walking her--a lot. I was too pooped out to work much on her training. We just got a chain link fence installed today. So happy with it. She loves to play ball or just roll around on the grass.
 
The other day when I took her for a walk she found an empty beer can and carried it all the way home (1/2 mile) I was so proud, and so was she. I think she needs a job. Have enrolled her a Click & Tricks class. You're so right about addressing her specific needs. She really needs to carry things. Never had a retriever before. This could be fun.

LOL - My puppy is 20 weeks now.  Constant biting.  I jsut shove a nylabone at her but didn't help much.  The breeder told me to go get real cow hooves.  It will keep her occupied serveral hours.  IT WORKED !  Just throw them away when they get too chewed up or shewed down.  My god she loves them.  I've gone through about 6 in 2 weeks. 
 
The other thing I stumbled on is the hose outside.  She chases where the water is splashing, NONSTOP.   Loves the sound of water hitting the bushes etc...It hard to water the poor shrubs now.   I cant' let her overexert cause she is a bulldog but a lab could go and go. I let her drink water out of the hose too. 
 
I too had forgotten how exhausting puppydoom is,,,,the quiet times are too few and far between.  I wonder when it will end!  Hang in there!!!!   

Also, don't know if this thing right or wrong, but the breeder told us to flick with your finger, her nose of muzzle when she bites.
 
You actually are lucky you have a smart dog.  Its taking my puppy longer to learn commands and she is very stubborn about not doing the command.  Of course, english bulls are known for stubborness.