Aggression only towards me..

depends on what the dog finds mildly aversive-- a verbal eh eh, a spritz of water, a penny-shaker can, instructions to "down"  or "sit" . Don't want to totally crush the dog, just sort of gently convince the dog life is better if dog doesn't try to initiate the tug games. Fun only starts if owner initiates it.

I would recommend using a e-collar. That way your dog would associate biting, nipping, or scratching you with an unpleasant feeling. The e-collar would be very effective in this situation if used properly.
 
Another method that has worked with some friends of mine with a Sibe that would nip is a simple water bottle. Every time the dog would nip them while playing they would spray it on the nose with the water bottle. However, I have tried this with my dog and evidently he loves the spray of the water bottle and it gets him exited.
 
In any event you have to find a way to associate biting with something very unpleasent.

I would start with a command to do something else (ie a stay), and move on to more serious aversives like water bottles only if this didn't work. My vizsla pup had a couple of very irritating habits, like initiating play whenever I would tie my shoes, that I cured successfully with a long, unrewarded down-stay.

The e-collar would be very effective in this situation

 
That would be tragic to do to a Siberian.  What you would create would be a psychotic mess.
 
Siberians need to be taught, not shocked.   Anyone who would do this to a Sibe is really off track.
 
Spray with a little water would be fine.  A simple distraction that causes no pain.  And you would not lose the trust of your dog with that measure.   
 
Siberians are intelligent, and their basic nature is kind.  They love to frolic, but the human needs to learn how to curb that energy and redirect her at this point in time "excessive" playfulness.  You don't want to create a flat mooded Siberian that is afraid of her owner.  Or a fearful and uncertain animal that still does not understand human, yet understands shock collar efficiency.
 
A GSD near me has one for when he barks.  He was especially trained and then he also gets shocked for barking.  He still barks at everyone, and then gets a shock for it ...each time.  His owner thinks it is obedience.  That is not what I think.
 
If my dogs are barking and I want them to stop, then I will talk to them.  They are not afraid of a shock, but they listen to see what I want.  I may call them inside.  They always stop if I ask them.  And we are not wasting any electricity to do it.
 
 

That would be tragic to do to a Siberian.  What you would create would be a psychotic mess.

Siberians need to be taught, not shocked.   Anyone who would do this to a Sibe is really off track.

training equipment is not breed specific it is temperament specific. If you have a dog with a soft temperament and use a very high shock on it, then yes the dog would act like you just killed it. However if used CORRECTLY it is just as humane as a prong collar.

I have a siberian husky so I am not speculating here. E-collars are a very effective means of training which has no long term effects on the animal.

I would try fisher6000's suggestion first, it will probably work, no need to shell out $$ for an ecollar plus instructions on how to use one properly, to correct this one simple behavior. And for lurkers, using aversives of any kind on dogs younger than six months of age, even totally out of control crazed puppies, even with very mild aversives, is NEVER a good idea. This dog could probably have been "cured" easily as a much younger pup just by the ignore him technique.  But he's been practicing this behavior, and being rewarded for it, for many months now.

She has alot of toys ( my husband says too many) but she has alot of interactive toys, a ball that rolls and food comes out, a kong that she gets when she is in her crate while we're gone, a "squirrel hut" where she pulls tiny squirrels out of, a chicken that she pulls eggs out of and other things that do keep her occupied.
 
We go for 2 walks a day, Sometimes I put on my rollerblades and she pulls me down the road, only problem is I haven't figured out how to get her to stop lol so we just keep going untill she tires out. Yesterday we did a benefit walk for the humane society which was a 3 mile walk. What's funny is a lady came up to me and asked if my dog had obedience training because she just sat so nicely and behaved with tons of people and dogs around. She behaves like an angel in public, it's just at home she misbehaves.

Doesn't sound all that bad! I think that they do actually have a second teething kind of stage at her age.  And bet she will be growing out of a lot of those untoward behaviors. 
 
Work at curbing them.  Your Sibe sounds like she has got it all and is perhaps a little spoiled?  ;  )
 
Huskies do love to jump up on you.  I too am not excited about wearing shorts!  I love my Sibes and they are extremely affectionate, love hugs and kisses.  But I too have to make them mind and stay down.  It is the problem of wanting to play with them like they play with each other....We are not Siberians, just wish we were. []  If they read the mixed message, they will pick the message that says, Yeah, I can do that!  [8|]
 
It is sometimes difficult to set limits, but in order to have civil dogs, (and children) we must do it!!!

I have tried this with my dog and evidently he loves the spray of the water bottle and it gets him exited.

 
If this is the case I would recommend a teaspoon of white cider vinegar per litre of water. 

Second teething stage can make teething to begin with look like a cakewalk.
At about 8 months the new teeth have to set in the gums, and that is usually when the real heavy chewing starts.

she sounds like she'll be totally wonderful when she's three....

I would recommend using a e-collar. That way your dog would associate biting, nipping, or scratching you with an unpleasant feeling. The e-collar would be very effective in this situation if used properly.

I consider this a last resort method to be used only with the help of a trainer experienced with this training technique.  It is much too easy to use a shock collar incorrectly and to wind up teaching the wrong things.

ORIGINAL: mudpuppy

What I am doing now is when she tugs at my pants I can just ignore that (no yelling, no touching, talking, nothing) I usually end up just dragging her where I need to go.

you're rewarding her by dragging her-- it's now a fun tug game. No wonder she won't stop, and only does it with you. You could have nipped it in the bud by totally freezing and ignoring her as a young puppy, but you have too much "reinforcement history" of this behavior at this point. You may need to turn to an aversive of some kind to help stop this.
Do you play tug with her, properly, as in only allowed to grab the toy on command, must drop the toy instantly on command? that might help, an outlet for tugging in an appropriate context.
A big problem with huskies is that it's practically impossible to exercise them fully. They are bred to run all day every day. I think they are, in a way, much more difficult to own than, say, border collies. Border collies are also incredibly high energy dogs, but they are so eager to work with you that you can easily devise endless numbers of ways to expend their energy-- frisbee, agility, training games. Huskies just want to run. Look into training her to pull- scootering, sledding, sjkoring. At nine months she can be pulling a drag and learning the basic commands.

Great suggestions, and I would add STOP playing with her in the house!  This can be one way of changing the "picture" she sees of you as tug toy.  When you want to play with her, take her outdoors.  And, ignore any behavior that she uses to demand play.
PM ron2 about some of the successes he's had with clicker training.  Sit and lie down aren't the only skills she can learn at class.  It's a great way to teach an adolescent dog that they aren't the queen of the universe.  In that environment, you would be her security, not her toy, and other dogs may put her in her place as well.  You are wrong to isolate her from other dogs, new people, etc. as she progresses into adulthood.  The more stimulation and exercise, even mental exercise, that you give her now will pay off in the end.

ORIGINAL: at_a_loss

I would recommend using a e-collar. That way your dog would associate biting, nipping, or scratching you with an unpleasant feeling. The e-collar would be very effective in this situation if used properly.

Another method that has worked with some friends of mine with a Sibe that would nip is a simple water bottle. Every time the dog would nip them while playing they would spray it on the nose with the water bottle. However, I have tried this with my dog and evidently he loves the spray of the water bottle and it gets him exited.

In any event you have to find a way to associate biting with something very unpleasent.

I don't think you have to associate biting with something unpleasant, I think you have to stop inadvertantly rewarding it with any form of attention.  I'd rather see you in hockey pads ignoring the little bugger until he has the extinction burst than turning him in to an aggressor that you won't even be able to live with.  []

I would rather err on the side of safety and make it clear that although biting is acceptable in the dog world, it is not acceptable in the human world. But if you are able to teach the dog this through non-corrective means, then more power to you. Depending on the temperament of the dog he may not respond to these methods and you may have to resort to correcting the dog.