using treats to train several behaviors at once

I would cut the treating-on-walks down dramatically, preferably to zero, because on walks there is such opportunity for the use of environmental rewards. For example, not-pulling-on-leash is best dealt with by rewarding the dog for not-pulling by letting the dog move forward, not by giving the dog treats. This is very logical to the dog- most dogs motivation for pulling is to get to move forward faster, so removing that motivation solves the problem. You have to be 100% consistent which is where owners fail- instead of being concerned about being consistent they are concerned about getting a certain distance covered per walk. It may take you an hour to move ten feet at first during loose-leash training.

I don't understand the "going potty in the right place" in connection with walks. I teach the dogs to go potty first and the walk is reward for the potty in right place. So I won't touch that.

"leave it" is best taught in controlled situations and only taken on the road when well-learned. I wouldn't try to actually teach this command on an actual walk.

trying to work on multiple behaviors at once is doomed to fail. Pick one, fix it, then move on to the next one. It sounds like your criterion for treating are so loose that neither you or the dog really understands why the dog is getting the treat now.

The best way to train is to first work on the behavior in a very quiet, un-exciting environment, and only take the behavior "on the road" once the dog has mastered it in that environment. If your dog can't "leave it"  in your living room you're doomed to failure if you try it in the local park.

We are working on many of the same things with Coke.  One thing that has really helped - and this is indirectly related to treats - is to be super proactive about everything.  What I mean is, getting the attention back just as he turns his head, not after he has moved away.  This is a struggle for Coke and I because DH (admittedly) has bad timing.  He doesn't start redirecting Coke until he has already turned away and has his nose buried in the grass, at which point it's just a physical struggle to pull him back and DH is waving a treat at Coke's back.  With Coke, I have found that using the *right* treat or toy (took months to finally find something he REALLY wants!) and being very attentive about my timing has really helped.  He's made huge improvements in only a week.
 

mudpuppy

I would cut the treating-on-walks down dramatically, preferably to zero, because on walks there is such opportunity for the use of environmental rewards. For example, not-pulling-on-leash is best dealt with by rewarding the dog for not-pulling by letting the dog move forward, not by giving the dog treats. This is very logical to the dog- most dogs motivation for pulling is to get to move forward faster, so removing that motivation solves the problem. You have to be 100% consistent which is where owners fail- instead of being concerned about being consistent they are concerned about getting a certain distance covered per walk. It may take you an hour to move ten feet at first during loose-leash training.

I don't understand the "going potty in the right place" in connection with walks. I teach the dogs to go potty first and the walk is reward for the potty in right place. So I won't touch that.

 

"leave it" is best taught in controlled situations and only taken on the road when well-learned. I wouldn't try to actually teach this command on an actual walk.

trying to work on multiple behaviors at once is doomed to fail. Pick one, fix it, then move on to the next one. It sounds like your criterion for treating are so loose that neither you or the dog really understands why the dog is getting the treat now.

The best way to train is to first work on the behavior in a very quiet, un-exciting environment, and only take the behavior "on the road" once the dog has mastered it in that environment. If your dog can't "leave it"  in your living room you're doomed to failure if you try it in the local park.

I'm going to agree with all that mudpuppy has said.  Poor leash walking is an owner-caused, or owner exacerbated problem.  The reason dogs pull is that it gets them to where they want to go.  If the only thing that gets them where they want to go is to relax tension on the leash, then that's what they'll do.

Liesje

  What I mean is, getting the attention back just as he turns his head, not after he has moved away. 

Ditto, if you keep a eye out you'll be able to notice when he is about to stop to sniff for something and that is where you have to stop the behavior. Try to regain his attention by distraction, call his name in a fun animated voice and pick up the pace....be more interesting then what he is trying to smell.

You can also use this desire to sniff as a reward for not pulling. Allow him to stop to smell the roses when YOU say so as a reward.....I mena it is HIS walk and dogs do love to sniff. My dogs know "lets go", meaning its not time to sniff right now but I always do make time for them to linger in appropriate places, they are dogs and it is such a great joy for them. I also tell Primo "lets go" if his sniffing turns frantic and he starts marking like mad, I discourage it but its also a reinforcmenet of my control over excessive sniffing.

As for pulling, is your dog walked on a flexi by chance? If so you really gotta rethink the physics of the flexi lead and understand that is where part of your problem lies. Do you try to wear the dog out with a game of fetch or anything before you set out on your walk?