Bad Manners

    • Bronze

    Bad Manners

    My Squire is such a sweet puppy whom everyone made a fuss over when she was a baby.  Now that she's no longer a little baby (about 9 months now) how do I get her to be a GOOD girl.  Like I said, she's just being social and sweet, but the bad manners need to stop.
    Like not lunging at people when we're walking.  I have to put her on a tight short leash, and hold on for dear life, and even then she'll pull and pull until she chokes.  And she's SO bad for running across the street to see the neighbours.  We have asked and asked for them to ignore her when she comes, but they don't seem to get it that we don't want her to be dashing across the BUSY street every time she sees them outside.  The other one is that if she finds something more interesting than me or my bf, she'll ignore us... therefore, she's really bad outside on our lawn without a leash, because she won't come when called.
    We've enrolled in a beginner obedience class, but so far all she's learned is that when we're in class and we call her name, if she looks at us, she'll get a treat.  And then she just sits in front of us and stares!
    Such a sweet girl but so irritating sometimes! Help!
    • Gold Top Dog
    Getting her in a training class is an excellent idea and is quite likely to get you well on the road to resolving a lot of the problem you are describing.
     
    I can't understand however, how it is possible for her to dash across the road to see the neighbor whenever they are out.  Put her on a leash when she is outside.
    • Gold Top Dog
    Now that she's no longer a little baby (about 9 months now) how do I get her to be a GOOD girl. Like I said, she's just being social and sweet, but the bad manners need to stop.

     
    classic mistake. You should have insisted on good manners from day one and started training her in basic obedience from the day you brought her home. I'd strongly suggest you never ever ever let her off a long line or leash from now until the day she always comes when called.
    Class will help you, but remember you do need to go home and PRACTICE, every day, multiple times a day, in different settings, the things they go over in class.
    • Gold Top Dog
    I have to agree with Billy.  Unless your front yard is totally fenced (and very few front yards are) your dog needs to be on a leash every time she's outside. If you need to leave your front door open for a short time, maybe to bring groceries in or something, have her leash firmly fastened to the door knob so she can't dash off.  Her life may depend on that.

    Joyce
    • Puppy
    My Eskie is never off leash - we don't have a fenced yard and it would be pointless anyway unless it was 10 feet tall - these guys can jump - and our previous hounds would just have dug under.  I suggest that you find an obedience class that offers NON treat based training.  Our dog was the star of his class and of his private lessons - with treats - well at 27 months he is now getting specific issues training - has some of same problems you are dealing with - and after just 2 sessions with a private trainer - after his "evaluation" he is now a whole lot better.  For sure it is the Martingale collar and the choke chain I am wearing around my wrist as a "reminder" - but still success is success.  I know a few people whose pets wear harnesses with a choke or a Martingale as an accessory - just to fool the pup.  The smarter the dog the harder to train and Eskies are smart - but I am one step ahead - was trained by 2 super brilliant Dachshunds.
    • Gold Top Dog
    Obediance Classes!
    • Gold Top Dog
    I am going to offer advice on the other side. 
     
    A program that include treats as one of the reinforcers may be more effective than one that uses compulsion and praise.  In many cases, one of the largest problems you face is being more interesting than the distractions of new people and new dogs. ;People food (liver, chicken, cheese, beef) in TINY amounts is very motivating.  It helps get and maintain your dog's interest.  Yes you will need to learn how to phase the treats out to an extent.  However, I dont know of other approaches that result in fewer negative side effects and faster behavior change.  I use treats in my classes.  I dont require it, but most folks switch over pretty quickly when their dog lags behind the class average.  
     
    Large, powerful dogs may also need some adaptive equipment (head collars and other control based tools that do not result in a tight collar on the throat).  Distance is your friend, so when you talk to folks about classes, find out if they have a procedure for allowing dogs more space to develop the skills.  Constantly fighting against your dog in a small space is not really going to help.
    • Moderators
    • Gold Top Dog
    If treats don't motivate the dog, you can try a ball or whatever can drive her attention toward you.  Is this dog a lab?  What breed is it?
    • Gold Top Dog
    I am scared that your dog is going to get hit by a car.  Like everyone else said, if you have an untrained dog, she should NEVER be off-leash unless she is confined to a secure area.  She should never have the opportunity to run across a busy street.  It is not your neighbors' responsibility to keep her from running loose -- it's yours.  She's your dog and you need to keep her safely confined or on leash, 100% of the time, unless and until she is well-trained enough that she sits and stays when you tell her to, does not run away, and comes back when called.  Many dogs never reach that point, and yours clearly is not there.  While you work on training her, you must keep her safe. 

    Obedience classes sound like a good place to start. 
     
    For pulling on leash, try an Easy-walk harness.  More exercise will also help her not pull.