loose leash training question

Yes, it is a misconception.  As with any training method, timing is everything.  That does not just mean the timing of issuing the click/treat - it also means the timing of how you phase them out. 

Food rewards, or click-treats, should only be used to teach the behaviour you want and get it reliable.  Then you should start to phase them out and only produce them for the best responses, from somewhere the dog can't see them (like your pocket).  In other words, initially a reward (food or a toy or wahtever) can be used to lure the dog to the correct response, practise that and then put a cue on it.  Once the behaviour is fixed, he only gets rewarded every other time, every third, fifth, sixth, tenth..... and finally only for the best responses.  At this stage tthe food is not used to lure or bribe the dog, but does occasionally appear afterwards if he has done well.  Make sense?

I'm sure you can successfully teach good lead manners with a clicker, but I personally prefer to teach loose lead walking without a training aid or verbal cue.  When I first bring a puppy home, he starts learning "heel" off lead around the house and garden to impress on him that being beside me and walking with me is a good place to be.  Then I frequently attach the lead and let him drag it during the sessions.  When I hold it is more of an ornament than anything else.  I'll take him out of the front door (getting a Sit before its opened and again while I close the door) and back indoors again.  Down the path to the gate and back etc.  By the time vaccinations are complete he is well practised at walking along beside me beautifully as far as the street and I don't have to say anything to achieve it, it's just a pratcised routine.  The first walk or two we may not go much farther than that, it will be more of a training session than a walk - to show him to behave the same way on the street as he did coming out of the house and end it ona positive note before he has chance to get it wrong.  Each time we go further and anytime we see a distraction I get a "sit" and keep the dog focussed on me with a treat.  Any time he digresses from the "rules" (keeping the lead slack) I turn around sharply and go the other way.  By the time we get to walking in busier places with more distractions, he's well versed in walking on a loose lead and sitting beside me whenever he sees (for instance) another dog.

If I were in your position, I would do the same as with a puppy but would expect it to take a little longer and to be stopping and going the other way a lot more.  I'd also skip the dragging-the-lead stage as the dog is already accustomed to one.  In the initial stages walks would be very short, so I would increase their number each day and increase the amount of play and training she has so she is not understimulated.  Other people here will probably suggest various gadgets (like anti pull harnesses) which are totally fine, it's just I'm not 100% comfortable with gadgetry.  The only training aids I really use apart from a standard collar and lead are motivators for the dog (toys, treats, sometimes a clicker).

Be aware that if she is really pulling with the headcollar on, or lunging on it it may harm her neck muscles/trachea.

the head halter helps because she can only pull so hard before she will hurt herself. i think i will give the clicker training a shot

Clicker training is great, but bear in mind that as with all training methods, you have to set your dog up for success by not testing her with more than she can handle at any time. Even with a pocket full of chicken, if you march right up to a pet store your dog is going to be so completely distracted and excited she be able to have leash manners. The key is to proceed very gradually from the easy to the hard. Have her get really great at loose leash walking on the quiet street, then take her toward the pet store (for example). Get only close enough that she is slightly excited but still paying attention - then turn around and go home. It may take weeks... but anytime your dog is allowed to "practice" the unwanted behavior of pulling on lead, it gets harder to train out of her.
 
Always end on a positive note. One thing our puppy trainer used to have us do that I thought was great was, if you are training a new and/or difficult behavior, and the dog is starting to slip and mess up and get it wrong, stop and ask for something easy (a "sit" will do!), praise like crazy, and end the session.

that makes sense, it's hard to ask her to do anything when she gets distracted

ok, i'm getting quite confused with loose leash training and heeling. I think i get them mixed up actually. I had my dog off leash in my yard followed me around and everytime she came to my side I clicked and gave a treat. Was I training loose leash or heeling?

Loose leash walking is walking in any position with the handler and maintaining slack on the leash. Basically not pulling. Heeling is a more formal obedience thing where the dog match's the handler's pace by remaining directly lined up with the handler's left (?) foot. Loose leash walking isn't a command, it just is. The dog just does it because the dog knows that's the only way they're going to get anywhere (or avoid leash pops, or get rewarded, etc....). Heeling is a command that is given to the dog and the dog then responds by falling into the heel position.

ORIGINAL: houndlove

Loose leash walking is walking in any position with the handler and maintaining slack on the leash. Basically not pulling. Heeling is a more formal obedience thing where the dog match's the handler's pace by remaining directly lined up with the handler's left (?) foot. Loose leash walking isn't a command, it just is. The dog just does it because the dog knows that's the only way they're going to get anywhere (or avoid leash pops, or get rewarded, etc....). Heeling is a command that is given to the dog and the dog then responds by falling into the heel position.

 
So if I want to keep my dog under control and not pulling in different directions when a lot distractions are presented, i will need to concentrate on teaching loose leash?

I'd say yes definately. Heeling is an even more advanced command and may be something that you want to progress to once you've got LLW under control.

ok thanks for explaining []

I think so yes.  Teaching her to respond to "heel" and/or "sit" in gradually more distracting places as well is very useful because it means you will have something to get the dog focussed back on to you if ever she sees something exciting or scary which means you can pre-empt the tugging about all over the place (which is what I do) - but loose lead walking is the key.  As others have said.... set her up for success.