New Dog, New Owner - Help, Help, Help (please)!

    • Silver

    New Dog, New Owner - Help, Help, Help (please)!

    Hello all, new poster here but I've finally come to the conclusion that I need help ::drops down onto knees to beg:: [:(] ...so please bear with this long post as it will be a slight introduction as well. And thanks in advance for your time [:)]

    I recently acquired Charlie, bird dog stock type, probably a short haired Pointer mix. He's about 7 years old, 70lbs, a very solid pup. He belonged to a friend of mine since 5 months of age (she found him on a back dirt road in the middle of winter). His life, up to this point, has consisted of living with other dogs in a wood floored kitchen and dining room area, only to go outside on a long leash for potty breaks, and then back to the kitchen. He was in no way neglected and actually had a large area to roam, but he came into my hands since we both knew he's be much happier with a more 'normal' life.

    Chuckie has severe allergies and will break out in staph infections (think nasty hot spots) when he comes across something on his 'no' list. He is also very timid, cautious (not afraid) or strangers and particularly apprehensive about men. He has always lived with other dogs and been accustomed to my friend, her husband and children, but never really learned to walk on a leash, sit, etc --your real basic stuff. He also was horribly tense and terrified of the wood floors (anything shiny that he perceives as slippery, basically). He would creep across along the wall, walk backwards, or scramble around on a daily basis to get around. He didn't get much exposure to new people and although he lived with his 'pack' (two bull dogs and a lab), he never ran across any new 'friends'.

    Charlie made the 14 hour car trip (an *excellent* traveller) and is now living with me in a two-bedroom apartment with my (male) roommate and two cats (one year old and 5 months old). 95% of the apartment is carpeted... this will come into play later. We will soon be moving (May) into a much larger area with plenty of room to roam around outside and time to 'just be a dog'.

    Basically, I'll outline the problems I'm having and what I have been doing up to this point to try and work on some things. I appreciate *any* and *all* advice and will not take any offense to someone telling I made the wrong choice or am going about things all wrong, I promise. I just want to do what is best for all involved...

    When we arrived home, I kept him on a leash for about a half hour to give him a tour and allow a controlled introduction to the cats. The kitten ran off to hide in my room, while my other cat sat up on a trunk and just observed. He was quite excited about the new environment and *loved* the carpet. He walked past the older cat once and took a sniff where she promptly hissed and growled at him and he just went off to look at something else -no drama there. He was then let off the leash, fed a light dinner and we went to bed, him locked in my room and the cats left to the rest of the apartment.

    He seems to be adjusting quite well and some of his nervous tendencies have already disappeared (after 3 days) which I think is a combination of constant attention (not necessarily lovey dovey stuff, but just interaction on a constant basis), the less-than-scary carpeted floor, and frequent walks. We walk about three times a day and work on leash manners (he doesn't know any) for about 15 to 20 minutes and then I allow him to wander around in a grassy area to roll, sniff, whatever he likes as his reward. He is also starting to jog with my boyfriend at night and it's perfect to drain his energy. We are working inside on 'Sit', 'Down', 'Stay', 'Leave it/Drop it' and 'Come'. He is a very smart dog and learning very quickly. He quickly warmed up to my boyfriend (who accompanied us on our 14 hour car ride and loves my roommate and any friends that come over.

    The problems:
    1) He is not outright aggressive or at least, outwardly seeking 'interactions' with the cats, however... the larger cat usually makes herself scarce while curiousity has gotten the best of the kitten and he is out and about. Both cats are able to lay around and walk about without being attacked, but if they make any quick movements, he targets right in and barks and lounges. I don't know of his intentions (I don't know him quite well enough) and although I think he has been smacked a few times with claws, it doesn't seem to do much to discourage him. When I see him turn and stare, fixated on a cat, I'll say, "Charlie" (to gain his attention) and "Leave it" to which he will usually turn, look at me, and then lay back down and ignore the cats. However, of course if someone runs by, etc, he goes off barking, loungeing and chasing until either the cat makes it to high ground or he sees me and remembers cats are a 'no no'. As I said, I don't know his intentions ("Ooh, a plaything" versus "Ooh, dinner";) but I really do think that when he goes after the cats, it's not necessarily intentional or planned, but a reaction to a fast movement or them running past (instinct to chase, one would assume).

    I really need to know what I can do (besides give them time which I'm sure will help) to make sure he understands that cats are not appropriate to mouth on, and how to appropriately and effectively reprimand him. He is a very sensitive dog and any harsh words, etc will almost depress him.

    2) His allergies... Charlie is on Thyroid pills and always has been. He is also on Prednisone and an antibiotic for his recent staph infection (should be done with those in a few days). He is on Natural Balance's Fish and Sweet Potato mix as he is allergic to most every other food (or simply dislikes the taste). A short but main list of his allergies include: any tree, weed, or grass; cockroaches (meh??); corn; eggs; Brewer's Yeast; Green Peas; all poultry and poultry byproducts. He of course has bad skin and is prone to hot spots, I wanted to add some vegetable (i.e. soybean) oil in his food (actually did last night and this morning and he seems to really like it) but I am concerned that it contains too much Omega 6 and not enough Omega 3. In working in Equine Nutrition, I know that an overload of Omega 6 can get you an overworked immune system which will lead to allergies and other skin problems. I thought of using Fish Oil instead as it's high in Omega 3 but doesn't contain the proteins or anything --anyone done this with a dog?
    *ETA: Just did some browsing and have seen this suggestion here with the added suggestion of Vitamin E. Is this because of the drop in Selenium caused by the Vitamin E? I know that hot processed oils in horses need the body to change the oil (using up some Selenium), but I thought they would have supplements out there that are cold processed and would avoid this probem --or am I totally off base?
    I would ultimately like to be able to get him off the Thyroid medication, but in the least, I'd like to make his infections and outbreaks less and improve his overall skin condition.

    3) We are working on leash manners as I said, but I don't know if I'm making enough progress with my method. He is a quick learner and is doing better, but I almost feel like if I weren't always there on top of things that his manners would go to crap. My ultimate goal is to be able to have him field trained so that he can run about in the fields and expend some of that energy, but I won't do so until I'm totally confident that he can safely do so --and obviously, leash work is the first step.

    Currently, I have a choke collar on him. (I tried a prong collar but he screamed bloody murder and he doesn't protest to the choke). As I said, the first 3/4 of our walk is a schooling session. I try and give off as much positive and forward energy as possible, eyes up, shoulders back, looking forward. Asking him to remain near my leg and giving his short corrections when he either walks ahead too much, loses focus and starts looking around, or completely wanders off the side to check something out. When it's time for his reward, I'll ask him to sit and then switch to the longer leash (6 feet) and although he still has to walk where I want, he is allowed to wander about. He is very good about not pulling then, and can be reminded with a quick vocal, "Quit pulling" if he starts. However, when we're on the short leash and being asked to heel, he probably pulls 75% of the time. I imagine things will get better as he gets more used to being outside and the new wears off, but I feel like I'm missing something in the training. I also wonder if anyone has had any experience with 'texture sensitive' dogs. It would not surprise me as he is so sensitive with everything else, but I am easily able to have hit sit (without being told) when on the leash and we come to a stop in the apartment, but he does not want to sit for anything outside. It's not a nervous or excited/distracted issue, he just does not want to place his butt on the ground. Because of this, I keep our stopping/sitting to about two a walk and physically have to rock him back off his fore and help him tuck his butt underneath --totally an outside thing and I'm clueless.

    4) And lastly... Charlie is very, *very* touchy feeling. He is that dog that absolutely thrives on "Good boy" but on the other hand, he will almost become terrified and depressed if a harsh word or tone is used. I don't know if anything happened to him in his first 5 months of life, but I'm sure that hardly ever being reprimanded (he never really had a chance to do wrong) at his old home contributed. He thinks he is a 70lb lap dog... now, I've said that about my Chocolate Lab, but he truly will crawl in your lap, curl up into a *tiny* ball and fit all 70lbs on a tiny lap. He also likes to curl up and lay in the cat basket (yes, it's a cat basket about the size of a cat... yet, he manages and quite enjoys it). He also wants to lay up very close to you. When you're sitting on the couch, he will come up to sit in front of you (which is fine), but he will almost push his chest onto you to be close. He is mainly attached to my hip (but is getting better as he becomes more comfortable here) but does this to other people as well. As first I thought it was totally a nervous dependency issue, but now I almost think it's a dominance or possesive thing. He rolls over and acts as if he is submitting all the time, yet, if you ever went to force him to lay down or roll over onto his back, he is less than happy. He likes to come up onto the couch (which I don't mind if he has manners) and lay half in my lap, and I think this morning he almost attempted a little 'too much' lovin' with mom. He is constantly pushed back and made to sit or lay down in appropriate spaces, but he doesn't seem to learn the 'respect my space' issue. I've never had a dog where I found myself 'not Alpha' but I've never had to deal with anything other than very willing and accomodating labs. I try and do all the right things when it comes to dominance, and not allowing him to do certain things, but I'm thinking it's not working. Surely a dog that truly is submissive wouldn't have possesive tendencies? Any advice here would really be helpful.

    *ETA: I just reliazed I posted this in Health when it really has some training issues in it, but I suppose I was initially focused on his allergies and just started rambling... forgive me ;)

     Alright, if you have made it to the end of this post, congratulations, I applaud you. Again, any and all information is *much* appreciated and I look forward to your insightful responses [sm=clapping%20hands%20smiley.gif]
    • Gold Top Dog
    Reading quickly over your post... I wanted just to say a couple of things...
    First there a lot of people on this forum that are really "knowing" about behavior in dogs...I do believe you will have a lot of good advise when they all read this.
    But all in all,  Charlie sounds a lot like Bubblegum my Great Dane.   Of course so much is different,,she doesn't have allergies or cats and is not on thyroid medicine (which you say you expect her to get off of,,, Bubblegum is borderline Thyroid,,,I was told once she had to be on medicine for it she would ALWAYS have to be on it!)   But the part that sounds like Bubblegum is your #4.   Sounds exactly like her as a matter of fact. I'm always wondering if she is trying to control me or wanting me to control her. She tries to take over me most of the time.
    I found that for one thing you must ALWAYS stay in control.  I had put her on Nothing In Life Is Free and it works. Make him do SOMETHING for anything he likes. Make him walk next to you, not in front of you. Do not let him ever think he is getting the best of you. Ignore him if he tries for too much attention.
    I say to do these things...and they work,,but its hard to do them all the time.  I have to go back and do it again because they forget..and start taking over again.
    Big thing also is that you just got him,,,and he is learning what living with you is all about.  It took Bubby almost a year before she settled into being what she is today.  
    Good luck,,,it seems you are doing a bunch of RIGHT things!
    • Gold Top Dog
    In regards to the last section of your post, I think it would help to set some boundaries now for Charlie. Perhaps it would help to not let him on the couch for the time being. Google the phrase "NILF" (Nothing In Life is Free) and follow the easy steps outlined there - all simple actions that help solidify your leadership place in the dog's life. If you don't allow him on the couch or beds at least for the time being, he will see that it is YOU who decides when it's snuggle time. Don't let him push you around. No discipline is required, just don't respond to his pushiness. eg. If he comes up and gets pushy about wanting you to pet him, you must not give in - if needed, actually stand up and go to another area of the room and ignore him for a few seconds. Then, when he is on his own acting nicely, call him over for some lovin. It's OK to be affectionate, but YOU should be initiating the cuddle time, not him.  Overall he sounds like a great dog and I'm sure you'll get lots of other helpful advice. [:)]
    • Gold Top Dog
    Has he been to a dermatologist to be tested for the allergies? I give my Trudy a shot from her serum every week. She is also on Nat. Balance Fish and take Hydroxyzine daily. She geta a weekly bath. She was very ill with many allergy problems, but is now just fine.
     
    Reg.Vets often give prednisone. A derm. usually gets them away from that as soon as possible. Lots of dogs need Thyroid. People too.
     
    I would use a nice halter and get good training for him. Good luck! 
    • Silver
    Dyan - Thanks for the encouragement :)
    You're exactly right about him controlling me versus me controlling him, I'm not sure. I think I've pegged him as a very sneaky and nervous 'leader'. I think he's never had the real routine or exercise, conditioning, etc in his life where he felt comfortable taking on a following role. I'm hoping as he gets more comfortable and begins to trust me that he sees me fit to take over the alpha role so that he can 'just be a dog'.

    Scout - You're absolutely right. I don't feel comfortable yet locking him out of my room nor can I take his access to the couch, (it's the main room) but he is no longer allowed on the bed and not on the couch when I'm there. I've been ignoring him when he gets pushy and in my space and have started the whole NILIF regimen with him. So we'll see if that helps any. I'm trying to make the boyfriend and roommate aware of what is and is not acceptable, but of course I don't know exactly how things are handled when I am not here. I'm also staying off the floor with him and really not doing any cuddling for the time being after reading a few links offered, so we'll see about that as well.

    Sallya - Yes, he has had about $300 worth of testing done I have a complete write up on all his allergies and 'issues'  which I can include if that will be helpful, and it was actual done by my friend, an Equine Vet because it was more extensive than that offered by the regular vet (in all fairness, my friend did not take him to a dermatologist though) but the workup was done by Michigan State University which personally I would place as much (if not more) faith in as a dog dermatologist.

    I can't afford professional training yet and I'd like to avoid adding any more medicines per se, like the shots, unless it's absolutely necessary. So far, so good with his new food, etc. If he were breaking out all the time though, I'd definately be looking at doing something to help relieve him. I was just wondering if perrhaps there were something I could be giving him on a more daily basis as a prevention --nutritionwise. Can you give me some more info on the shots though? The Pred is actually for the staph infection he had recently and not a normal thing -he just gets his Thyroid on a routine basis.

    I took him out twice yesterday and once again this morning and he was doing great on the leash with the choke. Are you opposed to chokes or have you just had more luck with the harness? I used a Gentle Lead (or something equivalent, can't remember) on my lab because it was just absolutely impossible to gain and keep her attention and I felt bad constantly correcting her, but I was thinking (hoping?) that the choke with Charlie would be more successful in actualy 'training' him... thoughts?

    Thank you all, I await more replies :)
    I'm especially curious about the fish oil, vitamin E, Selenium deal if anyone has any good links...
    • Gold Top Dog
    2) His allergies... Charlie is on Thyroid pills and always has been. He is also on Prednisone and an antibiotic for his recent staph infection (should be done with those in a few days). He is on Natural Balance's Fish and Sweet Potato mix as he is allergic to most every other food (or simply dislikes the taste). A short but main list of his allergies include: any tree, weed, or grass; cockroaches (meh??); corn; eggs; Brewer's Yeast; Green Peas; all poultry and poultry byproducts. He of course has bad skin and is prone to hot spots, I wanted to add some vegetable (i.e. soybean) oil in his food (actually did last night and this morning and he seems to really like it) but I am concerned that it contains too much Omega 6 and not enough Omega 3. In working in Equine Nutrition, I know that an overload of Omega 6 can get you an overworked immune system which will lead to allergies and other skin problems. I thought of using Fish Oil instead as it's high in [Omega 3 but doesn't contain the proteins or anything --anyone done this with a dog?
    *ETA: Just did some browsing and have seen this suggestion here with the added suggestion of Vitamin E. Is this because of the drop in Selenium caused by the Vitamin E? I know that hot processed oils in horses need the body to change the oil (using up some Selenium), but I thought they would have supplements out there that are cold processed and would avoid this probem --or am I totally off base?
    /quote]
     
        Welcome to the forum; You've got me with the idea that the cold processed oils avoid the drop in selenium caused by vitamin E; I have no idea if that's true; interesting point. I normally would agree with Sally about having Charlie tested by a veterinary dermatologist and trying allergen immunotherapy; Jessie's on immunotherapy and is doing great; normally at least 2 of her feet would be infected and she would have itchy ears and watery eyes this time of year. The problem is Charlie's age; an older dog may not respond as well to the allergen serum;  [linkhttp://www.hillary.net/school/dermatology/derm.lec.11.09.98]http://www.hillary.net/school/dermatology/derm.lec.11.09.98[/link] ; " -best for dogs under 5 yrs of age w/less than 5 yrs of clinical disease"
       I would suggest talking with a veterinary dermatologist about it. There are shampoos that can kill bacteria and yeast, leave on conditioners with a steroid, prescription antihistamines, and a drug called Atopica which is safer than prednisone; a derm vet could discuss treatment options like those for Charlie.
    • Gold Top Dog
    A dermatologist might have more help for you. Did that hosp. tell you what to do with the information about the allergies. Was it skin testing?
    • Gold Top Dog
    Wow Laura! You are so great to take on a dog with these health issues. Sounds like he's a sweetie who's worth it though!

    We just got a new dog this spring. Lucy LOVES to torment the cats. The cats are gradually getting used to her just as she is getting bored with them. I think, as long as you keep reminding Charlie that the cats are off limits, he'll get the hint - eventually. The cats will also learn that if they don't run, Charlie won't chase. That's pretty much the way it works around here anyway! It has gotten to the point that my younger cat initiates chase games when he's bored. I think letting Lucy know the cats had "status" helped too. I don't let her bother the cats when they are in my lap or seeking attention from me. If the cats have me first, then Lucy has to wait. If the cats are bothered by her and want her further away, I ask her to move away. If Lucy bothers that cats when we all snuggle up for the night - she gets the boot. I have confidence that they'll all figure things out. It can takes months, but I think they'll all learn to get along.

    I can't say if there are any supplements to help with his allergies. None seemed to work on our Dalmation. We also tried benedryl & tavist during the worst of his seasonal allergies and they didn't help. Luckily, he doesn't have food allergies, just contact allergies. The worst time of year for us is fall and the only thing that seems to help is daily rinsing of his feet (they are the most affected) and frequent baths with hydrocortisone shampoo or oatmeal & tea tree oil shampoo. We also spritz any trouble areas with Allercaine spray. It has pain relievers & antiseptic for any wounds and a bitter taste to deter licking and biting.
    • Gold Top Dog
    I think you must decide is he allowed on the couch or not and stick with your desicion. My rescue dog has blossomed somewhat since his alpha dog died this summer.  Since I can offer him more affection now, he is eating it up and I have decided to allow him on the couch to curl up with me.  He has been pressing his body against me more, but this is fine.
     
    He had anxiety so I found giving him B-vitamins from CANINE ONE really helped him.  I also contacted a homeopath who put him on few doses of PULSITILLA. 
     
    Your command to LEAVE IT (the cats) is perfect.   I might change the command to LEAVE KITTYCATS ALONE.
     
    Sounds like a sweetdog.  He can learn to walk on the leash,,,I cut up hotdogs in a baggie and dispense them from my pocket to keep the dogs attention on me and walk as slow as I do.  
    • Bronze
    I made it to the end, but I have to admit that I'm in a hurry so I just scanned it. Sorry.
     
    Please get your dog into a training program. He will do better with that structure in his life -- I am just addressing the behavioral stuff here as I don't know that much about health concerns, not having read about them really. He needs a focus, he is an active-type breed not a lap dog :-), so I would guess he would love agility too. (I found an agility class at the local SPCA.)
     
    My 4-year-old has been way happier since he took up agility.  Also this would be excellent for your dog's socialization skills. And obedience classes would help you as well as him. My two cents. [;)]
    • Bronze
    Forgot to tell you I adopted a recue legue dog and she had issues when she came to us in '02 (fear of being hit with whatever you were carrying, being terrified of men, scared to death of narrow places, etc.), sorta like yours, but she has become the love of our lives and "mother" to my two youngest collies. So don't give up on your dog!
    • Gold Top Dog
    Hi -- I made it to the end but I'm not sure I can address 'all" at once.  If you've had thyroid testing at MSU you've had the best because they stick to Dr. Dodd's protocols faithfully.  However ... and this will be tough because you haven't had him all that long ... I have to wonder how much of a change was seen when he got on thyroid meds? 
     
    Sometimes you have to mess with *which* med and the amount.  Typically a dog with thyroid issues usually keeps them for life -- I'm pretty much described as 'majorly into' holistic stuff (from homeopathics to herbals to Oriental medicine/acupuncture/Chinese herbs, etc.), but also use a integrated approach on my dogs. 
     
    I've got a cocker that we went crazy with on allergy issues ... he was so 'borderline' that the regular vets didn't want to put him on thyroid meds, but once MSU did it wow ... he was definitely 'low'.  However ... as they age they can actually get *more* hypothyroid rather than less as a normal process.  And if they go thru a traumatic situation it can worsen the thyroid.  ALSO Prednisone screws the heck out of thyroid meds.  It will either make it read high or low ... usually 'high' so he may actually be in need of more supplementing.
     
    Billy (the cocker) also has IMHA (immune-mediated hemolytic anemia) and has been the full gamut of steroids and super steroids to suppress the immune system enough to keep him alive.  However, altho he is still on large doses of Atopica (a super-steroid a/k/a cyclosporine) which is given to dogs FOR skin issues, this winter Florida allergy season made his skin fall apart in a big big way again ... we re-tested him once we got him weaned off the pred and lo and behold he's still majorly LOW thyroid.  Partly breed, partly bad breeding (*sigh* he's a rescue) and perhaps partly the steroids.
     
    So because it was SO low (and my vets have been on the phone long distance with the MSU vets specifically because of the steroid issue) we've bumped up his supplementation a wee bit and finally hit on the magic dose.  it's not a big dose -- altho more than you'd think given his levels.  But it was what *he* needed.
     
    Can I suggest you change his thyroid med?  Now I'm having super good luck with Armour thyroid -- it's not a 'synthetic' thryoid like soloxine or any of those.  It's porcine glandular thyroid - meaning it's a 'real' thyroid supplement so you get a better coat and some dogs just respond to it much better.  In fact, my 'regular' vet is SO happy with how Billy's responded that he's been on the phone to my holistic vet to get the doseages so he could put other patients on it. 
     
    My guess is also that since this dog is SO grass allergic, it probably hurts him to have his butt touch grass, so he's generalized it outside to "I ain't going there!".  Try to keep his outside 'sits' on cement rather than grass -- it may actually burn him.
     
    Other things that help us -- and this is tough with a dog who is allergic to the outside, but try wiping him down when you come in -- a small dish with some black straight tea in it can truly help allergies a whole lot.  Just dip his feet in and swish them around and pat dry with a turkish towel.  In fact, a spray bottle with diluted tea in it spritzed over him when he comes in and then towel him off -- that can remove allergens from his coat (they have now decided that these dogs don't just get allergens from 'air' thru their nose but thru their skin as well). 
     
    Are you giving him some allergy med?  MANY antihistamines can help dogs, but you have to dose them properly or they are pointless.  Benedryl needs 1-2 mg/lb body weight (and stick with the 1 mg/lb dose if possible) 2-4 times a dya.  For a 75 pound dog that is THREE of the over-the-counter caps twice a day.  Dog metabolisms require that dose.  But if you see even a lessening of the symptoms it's helping.  Yes, it makes them somewhat sleepy at first but first it can keep them from tearing at themselves and if it helps the body deal with at least some of the histamines it can help.
     
    There are a lot of anthistamines - some vets like hydroxyzine, some like tavist, and there are others ... but they tend to all do different things so a good 2-3 week trial is generally necessary. good luck.
     
    And btw -- you do know how incredibly bad pred is long term, right?  If the dog keeps taking pred you will have either a diabetic dog in a couple of years or the kidneys will just fail outright. However, neither can you just take them off pred cold turkey.  But it's generally just NOT a good idea long term.  And it WILL have a huge impact on the thyroid.
    • Silver
    I had no idea the pred was so bad... as far as I know he's only on it maybe once a year for a week at a time when his allergies pop up. He's been on the throid medicine since he was a puppy and has done well. I just got his records from the vet in MI and his last test was about a year ago. I can't imagine that in the one week I happened to pick to take him home his meds stopped working, argh... Just grabbed his meds and they are Thyrozine-L and he gets .6mg every 12 hours. I don't have the test results in front of me but I'm having them faxed over tomorrow.

    I had the vet run a fecal occult just to rule out ulcers or any parasites and he's totally clean. I was thinking with his neurotic tendencies he might have given himself an ulcer, which would explain him not wanting to eat, but no... He's had over a week of the, "Here is your food, you have 15 minutes, eat it or it gets picked up" and he was virtually starving himself. Added some canned food to the mix and every other time he loves it and will gobble it up, but sometimes I still end up picking it up. I don't mind dealing with canned food or gravy, but he's still only occasionally eating. Usually every other meal (i.e. once a day) or at most he'll go up to two days without food. He's happy in every other way, active, etc, you think he'd be starved. He was eating 4 8 oz cups a day back 'home' but the vet here said he should be maintable on 3, I can barely get two into him so he must be hungry... I'm just at a loss for what to do :(

    On an up note, behaviorwise we're doing great and learning all sorts of rules, tricks and boundaries... I've also started using the Bag Balm (as was suggested) and his feet are doing great. If I can just get this eating thing licked... man, I miss the days of my garbage disposal lab.

    Would you still recommending retesting him? Any specific questions I should ask the vet, about what test or what not (I'm clueless here). I'm sorta living in the middle of nowhere so I'm not so sure how 'up' on things they are here.

    The chewing isn't bad, nor the scratching, but he does lick a lot, perhaps I should ask the vet about some (people) antihistamines as well? Anyone have any ideas on this not eating thing?? I know it hasn't been *that* long, but he is really settled in and absolutely loving life...