Let's talk about faults!

This is the Boston Terrier standard. They have pictures of correct and incorrect dogs on there. Here is a picture of Rudy, an absolutely gorgeous BT, who has excellent conformation....

As you can see, he has his ears cropped which is typical of BT's who are being "specialed" across the country. Now these are my pet quality BT's. This is Souffle...

 

He is missing required markings as he has an all black face. He's roach backed and his front feet are splayed. His ears are far apart. I like his melon though. He's got the shorter muzzle that I like.

This is Shelby...

 

They're not good pictures because she's a fruit cake and I can't get her to stay still but her ears are a bit off, her neck is a bit long and she has a longer muzzle than I like. Her markings are off but not DQ' able. The interesting part is a lot of BT folk think my breeder was insane for making her a pet as she does have nice conformation otherwise and could've finished in the ring.

Labrador Retriever Standard from the AKC website: 

General Appearance
The Labrador Retriever is a strongly built, medium-sized, short-coupled, dog possessing a sound, athletic, well-balanced conformation that enables it to function as a retrieving gun dog; the substance and soundness to hunt waterfowl or upland game for long hours under difficult conditions; the character and quality to win in the show ring; and the temperament to be a family companion. Physical features and mental characteristics should denote a dog bred to perform as an efficient Retriever of game with a stable temperament suitable for a variety of pursuits beyond the hunting environment.

The most distinguishing characteristics of the Labrador Retriever are its short, dense, weather resistant coat; an "otter" tail; a clean-cut head with broad back skull and moderate stop; powerful jaws; and its "kind," friendly eyes, expressing character, intelligence and good temperament.

Above all, a Labrador Retriever must be well balanced, enabling it to move in the show ring or work in the field with little or no effort. The typical Labrador possesses style and quality without over refinement, and substance without lumber or cloddiness. The Labrador is bred primarily as a working gun dog; structure and soundness are of great importance.

Size, Proportion and Substance
Size--The height at the withers for a dog is 22½ to 24½ inches; for a bitch is 21½ to 23½ inches. Any variance greater than ½ inch above or below these heights is a disqualification. Approximate weight of dogs and bitches in working condition: dogs 65 to 80 pounds; bitches 55 to 70 pounds.

The minimum height ranges set forth in the paragraph above shall not apply to dogs or bitches under twelve months of age.

Proportion--Short-coupled; length from the point of the shoulder to the point of the rump is equal to or slightly longer than the distance from the withers to the ground. Distance from the elbow to the ground should be equal to one half of the height at the withers. The brisket should extend to the elbows, but not perceptibly deeper. The body must be of sufficient length to permit a straight, free and efficient stride; but the dog should never appear low and long or tall and leggy in outline. Substance--Substance and bone proportionate to the overall dog. Light, "weedy" individuals are definitely incorrect; equally objectionable are cloddy lumbering specimens. Labrador Retrievers shall be shown in working condition well-muscled and without excess fat.

Head
Skull--The skull should be wide; well developed but without exaggeration. The skull and foreface should be on parallel planes and of approximately equal length. There should be a moderate stop--the brow slightly pronounced so that the skull is not absolutely in a straight line with the nose. The brow ridges aid in defining the stop. The head should be clean-cut and free from fleshy cheeks; the bony structure of the skull chiseled beneath the eye with no prominence in the cheek. The skull may show some median line; the occipital bone is not conspicuous in mature dogs. Lips should not be squared off or pendulous, but fall away in a curve toward the throat. A wedge-shape head, or a head long and narrow in muzzle and back skull is incorrect as are massive, cheeky heads. The jaws are powerful and free from snippiness-- the muzzle neither long and narrow nor short and stubby. Nose-- The nose should be wide and the nostrils well-developed. The nose should be black on black or yellow dogs, and brown on chocolates. Nose color fading to a lighter shade is not a fault. A thoroughly pink nose or one lacking in any pigment is a disqualification. Teeth--The teeth should be strong and regular with a scissors bite; the lower teeth just behind, but touching the inner side of the upper incisors. A level bite is acceptable, but not desirable. Undershot, overshot, or misaligned teeth are serious faults. Full dentition is preferred. Missing molars or pre-molars are serious faults. Ears--The ears should hang moderately close to the head, set rather far back, and somewhat low on the skull; slightly above eye level. Ears should not be large and heavy, but in proportion with the skull and reach to the inside of the eye when pulled forward. Eyes--Kind, friendly eyes imparting good temperament, intelligence and alertness are a hallmark of the breed. They should be of medium size, set well apart, and neither protruding nor deep set. Eye color should be brown in black and yellow Labradors, and brown or hazel in chocolates. Black, or yellow eyes give a harsh expression and are undesirable. Small eyes, set close together or round prominent eyes are not typical of the breed. Eye rims are black in black and yellow Labradors; and brown in chocolates. Eye rims without pigmentation is a disqualification.

Neck, Topline and Body
Neck--The neck should be of proper length to allow the dog to retrieve game easily. It should be muscular and free from throatiness. The neck should rise strongly from the shoulders with a moderate arch. A short, thick neck or a "ewe" neck is incorrect. Topline--The back is strong and the topline is level from the withers to the croup when standing or moving. However, the loin should show evidence of flexibility for athletic endeavor. Body--The Labrador should be short-coupled, with good spring of ribs tapering to a moderately wide chest. The Labrador should not be narrow chested; giving the appearance of hollowness between the front legs, nor should it have a wide spreading, bulldog-like front. Correct chest conformation will result in tapering between the front legs that allows unrestricted forelimb movement. Chest breadth that is either too wide or too narrow for efficient movement and stamina is incorrect. Slab-sided individuals are not typical of the breed; equally objectionable are rotund or barrel chested specimens. The underline is almost straight, with little or no tuck-up in mature animals. Loins should be short, wide and strong; extending to well developed, powerful hindquarters. When viewed from the side, the Labrador Retriever shows a well-developed, but not exaggerated forechest. Tail--The tail is a distinguishing feature of the breed. It should be very thick at the base, gradually tapering toward the tip, of medium length, and extending no longer than to the hock. The tail should be free from feathering and clothed thickly all around with the Labrador's short, dense coat, thus having that peculiar rounded appearance that has been described as the "otter" tail. The tail should follow the topline in repose or when in motion. It may be carried gaily, but should not curl over the back. Extremely short tails or long thin tails are serious faults. The tail completes the balance of the Labrador by giving it a flowing line from the top of the head to the tip of the tail. Docking or otherwise altering the length or natural carriage of the tail is a disqualification.

Forequarters
Forequarters should be muscular, well coordinated and balanced with the hindquarters. Shoulders--The shoulders are well laid-back, long and sloping, forming an angle with the upper arm of approximately 90 degrees that permits the dog to move his forelegs in an easy manner with strong forward reach. Ideally, the length of the shoulder blade should equal the length of the upper arm. Straight shoulder blades, short upper arms or heavily muscled or loaded shoulders, all restricting free movement, are incorrect. Front Legs--When viewed from the front, the legs should be straight with good strong bone. Too much bone is as undesirable as too little bone, and short legged, heavy boned individuals are not typical of the breed. Viewed from the side, the elbows should be directly under the withers, and the front legs should be perpendicular to the ground and well under the body. The elbows should be close to the ribs without looseness. Tied-in elbows or being "out at the elbows" interfere with free movement and are serious faults. Pasterns should be strong and short and should slope slightly from the perpendicular line of the leg. Feet are strong and compact, with well-arched toes and well-developed pads. Dew claws may be removed. Splayed feet, hare feet, knuckling over, or feet turning in or out are serious faults.

Hindquarters
The Labrador's hindquarters are broad, muscular and well-developed from the hip to the hock with well-turned stifles and strong short hocks. Viewed from the rear, the hind legs are straight and parallel. Viewed from the side, the angulation of the rear legs is in balance with the front. The hind legs are strongly boned, muscled with moderate angulation at the stifle, and powerful, clearly defined thighs. The stifle is strong and there is no slippage of the patellae while in motion or when standing. The hock joints are strong, well let down and do not slip or hyper-extend while in motion or when standing. Angulation of both stifle and hock joint is such as to achieve the optimal balance of drive and traction. When standing the rear toes are only slightly behind the point of the rump. Over angulation produces a sloping topline not typical of the breed. Feet are strong and compact, with well-arched toes and well-developed pads. Cow-hocks, spread hocks, sickle hocks and over-angulation are serious structural defects and are to be faulted.

Coat
The coat is a distinctive feature of the Labrador Retriever. It should be short, straight and very dense, giving a fairly hard feeling to the hand. The Labrador should have a soft, weather-resistant undercoat that provides protection from water, cold and all types of ground cover. A slight wave down the back is permissible. Woolly coats, soft silky coats, and sparse slick coats are not typical of the breed, and should be severely penalized.

Color
The Labrador Retriever coat colors are black, yellow and chocolate. Any other color or a combination of colors is a disqualification. A small white spot on the chest is permissible, but not desirable. White hairs from aging or scarring are not to be misinterpreted as brindling. Black--Blacks are all black. A black with brindle markings or a black with tan markings is a disqualification. Yellow--Yellows may range in color from fox-red to light cream, with variations in shading on the ears, back, and underparts of the dog. Chocolate--Chocolates can vary in shade from light to dark chocolate. Chocolate with brindle or tan markings is a disqualification.

Movement
Movement of the Labrador Retriever should be free and effortless. When watching a dog move toward oneself, there should be no sign of elbows out. Rather, the elbows should be held neatly to the body with the legs not too close together. Moving straight forward without pacing or weaving, the legs should form straight lines, with all parts moving in the same plane. Upon viewing the dog from the rear, one should have the impression that the hind legs move as nearly as possible in a parallel line with the front legs. The hocks should do their full share of the work, flexing well, giving the appearance of power and strength. When viewed from the side, the shoulders should move freely and effortlessly, and the foreleg should reach forward close to the ground with extension. A short, choppy movement or high knee action indicates a straight shoulder; paddling indicates long, weak pasterns; and a short, stilted rear gait indicates a straight rear assembly; all are serious faults. Movement faults interfering with performance including weaving; side-winding; crossing over; high knee action; paddling; and short, choppy movement, should be severely penalized.

Temperament
True Labrador Retriever temperament is as much a hallmark of the breed as the "otter" tail. The ideal disposition is one of a kindly, outgoing, tractable nature; eager to please and non-aggressive towards man or animal. The Labrador has much that appeals to people; his gentle ways, intelligence and adaptability make him an ideal dog. Aggressiveness towards humans or other animals, or any evidence of shyness in an adult should be severely penalized.

Disqualifications
1. Any deviation from the height prescribed in the Standard.
2. A thoroughly pink nose or one lacking in any pigment.
3. Eye rims without pigment.
4. Docking or otherwise altering the length or natural carriage of the tail.
5. Any other color or a combination of colors other than black, yellow or chocolate as described in the Standard.

 Here's some recent pictures of Caleb.  Faults that make him non-showable in the conformation ring are bad pigment (snow nose is allowable, but he's also lost some of the pigment on his bottom eye lids), his coat (it's on the thin side for a Lab) and his tail (it's not thick enough).  He also has that cowlick running up his face. Plus, now he's neutered. 

 

 

 

Ok I will try!  Xeph can probably do a better job with my dog!

German Shepherd Dog, FCI/WUSV breed standard (click)

Linda Shaw's illustrations:

My dog:

 

The Good

• secondary sex characteristics (ie, she looks like a female)
• correct dark brown eye color
• I like her ears/ear set
• good hips and good movement for work, judges have commented on her hips and "efficient" movement

 The Bad

• bump on the wither
• steep shoulder/shorter front reach
• I think her front feet need to be tighter and sometimes standing on her own she's a bit east/west
  
• needs more black on nose (I think a GSD should have a full black nose) and could have richer pigment overall
  

Dogo Argentino

HEAD: Massive, convex front to back, and transverse through the relief of the masticating muscles and the nape.

 

FOREFACE: The same length as the head. The line joining the two orbital projections of the forehead is at an equal distance from the occiput and the teethridge of the upper jaw.

 

(We have separated the head and the face, although both together constitute the head of the Dogo. The head is typical and, as has already been previously explained, belongs to the mesocephalic type. It should have a convex-concave profile that is the head is convex due to the relief of the insertion of the masticating muscles, a classic in the head of the “masticating” type of hunting dog. The face or muzzle should be slightly concave upwards, proper in a dog with a good sense of smell or rather one that has the head of a masticator and olfactory face, inasmuch as there is a functional interaction: scenting high. The cheekbone arches are very separated from the head, with the full temple cavity for the comfortable insertion of the temple muscle.

 

EYES:  Dark or light brown in color, eyelid rims should be black or clear; eyes set well apart. A lively, intelligent look but with a marked firmness.

(Clear eyes, or red eyelids, subtract points. Unequal ness of color-bluish-grey eyes is a basis for Disqualification.)

 

JAWS: Well-adapted, not overshot or undershot, strong, with well-implanted, large teeth. (The number of molars is unimportant. The homogeneity of the dental arches, the lack of cavities, neither overshot nor undershot jaw, and especially that the eyeteeth (Canines) are large and clean, and cross perfectly when biting prey. (Scissors bite)

 

NOSE: Strongly pigmented with black, with a light stop at the tip, full nostrils. (A white nose or one very spotted with white loses points. A cleft or hairlip is disqualified.)

 

EARS : High and laterally inserted, set well apart due to the width of the skull.  Functionally, they should be cropped and erect, in triangular shape and with a length which does not exceed 50% of the front edge of the auricle of the natural ear.  Without being cropped, they are of mid-length, broad, thick, flat and rounded at the tip.  Covered with smooth hair which is a bit shorter than on the rest of the body; they may show small spots, not to be penalized.  In natural position they hang down covering the back of the cheeks.  When the dog is alert they may be half-erect.

 

LIPS: Well-turned up, taut, free edges, black pigmented.

(Short lips are demanded, so that when the dog is taking his prey, he can also breath through the back corners of his mouth. If the lips are pendulous, although the upper jaw is sufficiently long, it makes a valve in the inhalation and closes the corners of the lips. This impedes the animal from supplementary breathing through the corners of the mouth, while retraining the prey; thus he has to let go or cause asphyxia, as happens in breeds with pendulous lips.)

 

OCCIPUT: It should not be in relief, because as the insertion of the head and neck form an arch, the powerful muscles of the nape will completely hide it. (It is confused with the curved line of the convexity of the cranium.)

 

NECK: Thick, arched, slender, with very thick throat skin, wrinkled as the mastiff, the Bordeaux Dog, and the Bulldog, and not tight, as the Bullterrier.

(This elasticity of the neck is due to the fact that the cellular tissue of the part is very slack, allowing the neck skin to slide against the superficial aponeurosis so that the tusk or claw of an adversary injures only the skin. When  puma, for example, tries to grasp the neck, the skin elastic and stretched a great deal, allows them to be caught easily.)

 

CHEST: Full, deep giving the appearance of large lungs seen from the front, the sternum ought to back up under the elbows. (As the Dogo Argentino is a working and fighting dog, the importance of a deep and full chest for the dogs’ breathing is obvious.)

 

BACK:  High, very strong, good muscular relief.

 

THORAX: Full’ when seen from the side, it’s lower edge rises higher than the elbows.

 

SPINAL COLUMN (Top-line): Higher in the shoulders, inclined in a gentle slope towards the rump. (in adult animals, when the spine and kidney muscular development are good, it looks like an easy chair in profile, and given the relief of the spinal muscles, presents a middle channel and length of the column.) Level top-line should be severely faulted.

 

PAWS: Straight, with short, well-joined toes. (The length of the toes ought to be in proportion to the paw; well-padded, with thick skin, and very rough to the touch; with calluses that allow it to run a great deal through rough and rocky soil without hurting itself.)

 

KIDNEYS: Covered by the dorsal muscles.

 

LEGS: Very muscular thighs, with a short hock and well-closed toes, with no aberrant tow (Dewclaw.)

(Good angulation. Always remember that the legs are the propulsion pillars for speed and support for a struggle. One can never insist too much, therefore, on the strength of the thigh muscles. The aberrant toe (dewclaw), so easy to get rid of in the first months, loses points as a recessive characteristic from the Pyrenean Dog, but it is not reason for disqualification.

 

TAIL: Long, and thick, but not extending past the hock, carried naturally low. During a fight, it keeps it raised in a continuous lateral movement, as when greeting his owner. (It should be remembered that the tail is a great help in changing direction while on the chase, where it acts in a compensatory way as a rudder, and during a fight with it’s prey, where it supports or helps the hind-quarters.)

 

WEIGHT: 80-100lbs

HEIGHT: 23.5 –27.5 inches            

(Dogs, measured at the shoulder should measure no less than 24.5 inches and no more than 27.5 inches. Bitches, measured at the shoulder, should measure no less than 23.5 inches and no more than 26 inches.. Dogs and Bitches below minimum height are disqualified. Dogs and Bitches measuring more than maximum height are faulted. Since the Dogo is a hunting dog which fights it’s prey directly, among the big hunting breeds, small size loses efficiency. All adult Dogo, whether male or female, of less that the lowest allowable size, should be disqualified. Among several good dogs, the one of greatest height is preferred. The creator of the breed has established that there should exist a harmony of proportion or normal organic correlation that for a functional point of view, translates into a greater capacity to fight its prey. Therefore, one should look for the animal of greatest size and weight.)

 

COAT: Completely white. Any spot of color should be disqualified as an atavistic characteristic. The small spots on the head are not cause for disqualification, but among two similar animals, the completely white one is preferable. In contrast, any spot on the body is cause for disqualification.

 

DISQUALIFYING FACTORS:  Bluish-grey eyes, Unilateral or Bilateral Deafness, spots on the body, long hair, white nose or very spotted with white, prognatism (whether overshot or undershot), very pendulous mouth, a greyhound head, bitches less that 23.5 inches tall, dogs less than 24.5 inches tall, more than one spot on the face, any physical disproportion. The aberrant toe (Dewclaw) loses points, but does not disqualify the animal.

 I have underlined some of the faults that Hektor has.

 Also not mentioned in the standard but still a serious fault for any breed is Cryptorchidism which Hektor has.

 I will try and post one fo rGunnar tomorrow

 

Oh ha ha this is gonna be a good one! Its very rare to find a true APBT that fits breed standard nowadays!

SKULL - The skull is large, flat or slightly rounded, deep, and broad between the ears. Viewed from the top, the skull tapers just slightly toward the stop. There is a deep median furrow that diminishes in depth from the stop to the occiput. Cheek muscles are prominent but free of wrinkles. When the dog is concentrating, wrinkles form on the forehead, which give the APBT his unique expression.

Any color, color pattern, or combination of colors is acceptable, except for merle.

Disqualification: Merle

The American Pit Bull Terrier must be both powerful and agile so actual weight and height are less important than the correct proportion of weight to height. Desirable weight for a mature male in good condition is between 35 and 60 pounds. Desirable weight for a mature female in good condition is between 30 and 50 pounds. Dogs over these weights are not to be penalized unless they are disproportionately massive or rangy.

MUZZLE - The muzzle is broad and deep with a very slight taper from the stop to the nose, and a slight falling away under the eyes. The length of muzzle is shorter than the length of skull, with a ratio of approximately 2:3. The topline of the muzzle is straight. The lower jaw is well developed, wide and deep. Lips are clean and tight.

Faults: Snipey muzzle; flews; weak lower jaw.

TEETH - The American Pit Bull Terrier has a complete set of evenly spaced, white teeth meeting in a scissors bite. Fault: Level bite.

Serious Faults: Undershot, or overshot bite; wry mouth; missing teeth (this does not apply to teeth that have been lost or removed by a veterinarian).

NOSE - The nose is large with wide, open nostrils. The nose may be any color.

EYES - Eyes are medium size, round to almond-shaped, and set well apart and low on the skull. All colors are equally acceptable except blue, which is a serious fault. Haw should not be visible.

Serious Faults: Bulging eyes; both eyes not matched in color; blue eyes.

EARS - Ears are high set and may be natural or cropped without preference. If natural, semi-*** or rose are preferred. *** or flat, wide ears are not desired.

This is the actual standard set 80 years ago....

and here are Rory and Primo....

Technically both would be disqualified for size alone but the UKC and ADBA have become extremely leniant on size because the APBT brings in a majority of the clubs money.

Primo dosnt have a very nice tuck and if he puts on too much weight his topline is awful. Rory's grandmama excelled at confirmation and I was going to show Rory but she had a toe ripped off by a male when she was a pup.

Here is her grandma Castillo's Deja Vu

This is the link to the FCI White Swiss Shepherd Dog standard :

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/catehelf/BBS%20Standard.doc

Here's my Dutch girl, Ruby (And the closest thing to a square stack picture I have of her O.o - pic was in december...she was 9months old)

and a slightly more recent picture taken by Hal Davis (10 months) :

Attributes :
-Good Bone
-Lively with good nerve
-Good Leather pigment and dark eyes
-Good ear carriage
-stong, solid Topline
-good shoulder layback
-good angulation in the rear
-dark toes
-powerful, ground eating, easy trot
-23.5 inches at the shoulder
-good secondary sex chars

Faults :
-a little too tall (can tell more now than back then, long in the leg)
-lips a little too loose
-flat withers
-(she was toed out and pretty cowhocked at that age, has since straightened out with growth.
-cream in the coat
-could use a better earset
-short in the croup
-had watered down drives at a younger age....but since her first heat has started to turn on O.o
-weak pasterns

Here is the AWSA WS Standard :

http://www.awsaclub.com/standard.htm

And here is my Leo at 7 months of age (Stacked shot) :

Attributes :
-Beginning to show his secondary sex - good back skull, muscle,
-Rib spring pretty good for his age
-good underline
-Straight in the rear
-Very powerful forward movement through the rear
-good pigment
-solid temperment...he has more civility than Ruby does, but he is doing well on the field!

Faults :
-Puppy Ugly O.o
-Steep Shoulder
-Weak bone
-needs more chest
-Neck needs a little more strength
-short croup, high tail set
-Toed out in the front
-feet a little splayed

It's kind of hard to tell with Leo because he is so young...and there are things in him I know will change as he grows older....but he is maturing at a quicker rate than Ruby...and I think will finish out even before she does.

As far as overall faults of the WSSD : usually includes not enough chest, a little too long, some of the lines are watered down in terms of temperment, and occasionally narrow (again depends on the line).  They tend to be squarer overall dogs.

As far as the WS : usually not enough bone, bad shoulder angulation, a little too nervy (though that is improving with time), and in my opinion the pigment isnt as good as it can be...but that is secondary to health and temperment for sure!

Here Are a couple of my fav. WSSD champions :

\

 And a couple of WS Champs :

~Cate

The FCI Mini Schnauzer standard:

http://www.schnauzerclub.com/zsstanduk.html

GENERAL APPEARANCE : Small, strong, stocky rather than slim, rough coated, elegant. A reduced image of the Schnauzer without the drawback of a dwarfed appearance.

IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS :

Square build in which the height at the withers is nearly equal to the body length.

The length of the head (measured from the tip of the nose to the occiput) corresponds to half the length of the topline (measured from the withers to the set on of the tail).

BEHAVIOUR/TEMPERAMENT : His nature is similar to that of the Schnauzer and is determined by the temperament and the behaviour of a small dog. Intelligence, fearlessness, endurance and alertness make the Miniature Schnauzer an agreeable house dog as well as a watch and companion dog which can be kept even in a small appartment without problems.

HEAD

CRANIAL REGION

Skull : Strong, long without markedly protruding occiput. The head should be in keeping with the dog’s force. The forehead is flat, without wrinkles and parallel to the bridge of nose.

Stop: Appears well defined due to the brows

FACIAL REGION

Nose : Well developed nose leather, always black.

Muzzle : Ending in a blunt wedge. Bridge of nose straight.

Lips : Black, smoot and tight-fitting to the jaws. Corners of lips closed.

Jaws/Teeth : Strong upper and lower jaw. The complete scissor bite (42 pure white teeth according to the dentition formula), is strongly developed and firmly closing. The chewing muscles are strongly developed but the cheeks must not interfere with the reactangular shape of the head (with the beard).

Eyes: Medium sized, oval, facing foreward, dark with lively expression. Eyelids close fitting.

Ears : Drop ears, set high, V-shaped with inner edges lying close to the cheeks, evenly carried , turned forward towards temples. Folds parallel, should not be above the top of the skull..

NECK : The strong, muscular neck is nobly arched, blending smoothly into the withers.

Strongly set on, slim, nobly curved, corresponding to the dog’s force. Throat skin tight-fitting without folds.

BODY

Topline : Slightly sloping from withers towards rear.

Withers: Forming the highest point in topline.

Back: Strong, short and taut.

Loins : Short, strong and deep. The distance from the last rib to the hip is short to make the dog appear compact.

Croup : Slightly rounded and imperceptibly blending into tail set on.

Chest : Moderately broad, oval in diameter, reaching to the elbows. The forechest is distinctly marked by the point of the sternum.

Underline and belly : Flanks not too tucked up, forming a well curved line with the underside of the ribcage.

TAIL : Natural; a sabre or sickle carriage is sought after.

LIMBS

FOREQUARTERS : Seen from the front, the front legs are strong, straight and not close together. Seen from the side, the forearms are straight.

Shoulders: The shoulder blade lies close against the rib cage and is well muscled on both sides of the shoulder bone, protruding over the points of the thoracic vertebrae. As sloping as possible and well laid back, forming an angle of appr. 50̊ to the horizontal.Upper arm: Lying close to the body, strong and well muscled, forming an angle of 95̊ to 105̊ to the shoulder blade.

Elbows: Close fitting, turning neither in nor out.

Forearm : Viewed from all sides, completely straight, strongly developed and well muscled.

Carpal joint: Strong, firm, barely standing out against the structure of the forearm.

Pastern : Seen from the front, vertical. Seen from the side slightly sloping towards the ground, strong and slightly springy.

Forefeet : Short and round. Toes well-knit and arched (cat foot) with short dark nails and resistant pads.

 

HINDQUARTERS : Standing obliquely when seen from the side, standing parallel but not close together when seen from the rear.

Upper thigh : Moderately long, broad and strongly muscled.

Stifle :Turning neither in nor out.

Lower thigh : Long, strong and sinewy, running into a strong hock.

Hock : Very well angulated, strong, firm, turning neither in nor out.

Metatarsus : Short, vertical to the ground.

Hind feet : Toes short, arched and well-knit. Nails short and black.

GAIT/MOVEMENT: Flexible, elegant, agile, free and ground covering. The forelegs swinging as far forward as possible, the hind legs, ground covering and springy, provide the necessary drive. The front leg of one side and the hind leg of the other side move forward at the same time. The back, the ligaments and the joints are firm.

SKIN : Tight fitting over the whole body.

COAT

HAIR : The coat should be wiry, harsh and dense. It consists of a dense undercoat and a not too short top coat, lying close to the body. The top coat is rough and sufficiently long to allow the checking of its texture; it is neither bristly nor wavy. The hair on the limbs tends to be less harsh. Coat short on forehead and ears. Typical characteristics are the not too soft beard on the muzzle and the bushy eyebrows which slightly shade the eyes.

COLOUR

Pure black with black undercoat.

Pepper and Salt.

Black/Silver.

Pure white with white undercoat.

 

When breeding Pepper and Salt, the aim is a medium shading with evenly distributed, well pigmented, pepper colouring and grey undercoat. The shades from dark iron grey to silver grey are all permitted. In all colour variations there must be a dark mask, which should adapt harmoniously to the respective colour. Distinct light markings on head, chest and limbs are undesirable.

SIZE AND WEIGHT

Height at withers Dogs and bitches between 30 and 35 cm.

Weight Dogs and bitches approximately 4 to 8 kg.

 

Gaci:

Strengths:
- Very nice earset.
- Very terrier-like in nature, high drive
- Very nice size.
- Very square build, nice proportions
- Has nice reach and drive (gaiting).
- Coat type is nice, harsher coat type.
- Overall very well balanced

Faults:
- Head slightly small for body
- Thinner build
- Thinner coat - very good for working Schnauzer, not great for show Schnauzer.
- Some anxiety in personality
- Low tail set
- Coat faded slightly (but she is clipped, natural coat may remain black)

Gaci would not make an overall great show dog, but she is a magnificent working Schnauzer, in drive, temperament, size, build, and coat type.

Shimmer:

Strengths:
- Beautiful tail set and carriage - a plus for natural-tailed Mini's in North America
- Beautiful ear set
- Head - size, proportion, and expression. One of her biggest strengths.
- Square, nice bone.
- Very attentive, willing to work with human, very intelligent
- Nice eye shape and color

Faults:
- Sensitive personality
- Tall for a bitch
- Rear angulation could be better
- Too high on leg (likely accounting for her tallness)
- Not as balanced as Gaci is

Shimmer is actually a very nice dog. She was kept for breeding originally, as she had many structural qualities, and intelligence, and overall expression and flare, to make some very beautiful offspring. However, due to her sensitive personality, she was spayed, and now lives a nice *retired* life with myself and Gaci.

Oh Shimmer bestill my heart you sweet lil face! I love Shimmer!

Beagle Breed Standard
Head
The skull should be fairly long, slightly domed at occiput, with cranium broad and full. Ears--Ears set on moderately low, long, reaching when drawn out nearly, if not quite, to the end of the nose; fine in texture, fairly broad-with almost entire absence of erectile power-setting close to the head, with the forward edge slightly inturning to the cheek--rounded at tip. Eyes--Eyes large, set well apart-soft and houndlike--expression gentle and pleading; of a brown or hazel color. Muzzle--Muzzle of medium length-straight and square--cut--the stop moderately defined. Jaws--Level. Lips free from flews; nostrils large and open. Defects--A very flat skull, narrow across the top; excess of dome, eyes small, sharp and terrierlike, or prominent and protruding; muzzle long, snipy or cut away decidedly below the eyes, or very short. Roman-nosed, or upturned, giving a dish-face expression. Ears short, set on high or with a tendency to rise above the point of origin.

Body
Neck and Throat--Neck rising free and light from the shoulders strong in substance yet not loaded, of medium length. The throat clean and free from folds of skin; a slight wrinkle below the angle of the jaw, however, may be allowable. Defects--A thick, short, cloddy neck carried on a line with the top of the shoulders. Throat showing dewlap and folds of skin to a degree termed "throatiness."

Shoulders and Chest
Shoulders sloping--clean, muscular, not heavy or loaded--conveying the idea of freedom of action with activity and strength. Chest deep and broad, but not broad enough to interfere with the free play of the shoulders. Defects--Straight, upright shoulders. Chest disproportionately wide or with lack of depth.

Back, Loin and Ribs
Back short, muscular and strong. Loin broad and slightly arched, and the ribs well sprung, giving abundance of lung room. Defects--Very long or swayed or roached back. Flat, narrow loin. Flat ribs.

Forelegs and Feet
Forelegs--Straight, with plenty of bone in proportion to size of the hound. Pasterns short and straight. Feet--Close, round and firm. Pad full and hard. Defects--Out at elbows. Knees knuckled over forward, or bent backward. Forelegs crooked or Dachshundlike. Feet long, open or spreading.

Hips, Thighs, Hind Legs and Feet
Hips and thighs strong and well muscled, giving abundance of propelling power. Stifles strong and well let down. Hocks firm, symmetrical and moderately bent. Feet close and firm. Defects--Cowhocks, or straight hocks. Lack of muscle and propelling power. Open feet.

Tail
Set moderately high; carried gaily, but not turned forward over the back; with slight curve; short as compared with size of the hound; with brush. Defects--A long tail. Teapot curve or inclined forward from the root. Rat tail with absence of brush.

Coat
A close, hard, hound coat of medium length. Defects--A short, thin coat, or of a soft quality.
Color
Any true hound color.

General Appearance
A miniature Foxhound, solid and big for his inches, with the wear-and-tear look of the hound that can last in the chase and follow his quarry to the death.

Scale of Points
Head
Skull 5
Ears 10
Eyes 5
Muzzle 5
Total 25

Body
Neck 5
Chest and shoulders 15
Back, loin and ribs 15
Total 35

Running Gear
Forelegs 10
Hips, thighs and hind legs 10
Feet 10
Total 30

Coat 5
Stern 5
Total 10

Overall Total 100

Varieties
There shall be two varieties:
Thirteen Inch--which shall be for hounds not exceeding 13 inches in height.
Fifteen Inch--which shall be for hounds over 13 but not exceeding 15 inches in height.
Disqualification
Any hound measuring more than 15 inches shall be disqualified.


This bitch is exactly what I want in a 13 inch bitch. Strengths:
Substance, big for her inches
great shoulder assembly
great bone
proper head, lovely pleading expression and a great earset
excellent rear
short back
excellent overall balance
great length of upper arm

Faults:
could use a better tail set
would like rounder, tighter feet
needs to have a lack of erectile power in her ears
would like her to be a tad shorter in loin and a little longer in rib
would like a slightly better tail set


Strengths
nice bone for her body
beautiful head and expression
personality is what a Beagle should be. Has endurance and stamina to last in the field, bold, strong willed, and stubborn
a beautiful rear and outstanding feet

Faults
Too upright in the shoulders (big problem in the breed)
short in upper arm (another big problem)
too long in back and loin
low tail set
ears set on high
would like to see a little more bone

Thats my take on my girls. I might do my boys later...

 Since I just joined I am reviving a thread thats over a month old but it looks like fun.

The APBT standards are way too long to post but here is the serious faults/DQs
Man aggression
Albino, Merle, blue, white or pink eyes, bi colored eyes
Cryptorchid or spayed/neutered dogs
Long coat or fringed hair
Docked or bobbed tail
Deafness

and links

Standard 1 & Standard 2


Male 1 sound representation of the breed IMO, would breed. Drive, temperament, nice natural muscle and conformation. No dog is perfect but at least in my eyes he is very close and good representation all around. Love the head and overall balance.


Female 1 Muzzle slighly short is the main fault, just barely but its there, she used to have a shallow stop but matured out of that, would breed her. Not extremly eager to please, temperament is not too stubborn or bull headed though, just not as biddable as your typical APBT that I really like. She is a quick learner and fairly obedient but does it at her own relaxed pace vs all excited to do something for you. Good overall temperament although wants to be boss of other dogs, very good natural muscle tone, has a nice moderate level of balanced drives.


Male 2 Very nice representation but feet are a bit too large so the proportion is off and they appear slightly splayed. Upper arm is too short and very straight. Full drop ears, although ears are not a fault there is still a prefered look. That is my main concerns overall. Would I breed this dog? Yes, certainly. He has already shown to produce better then himself in many dogs I have seen.


Young Male Young male still developing. I would like to see more filling out and more muscle tone (although that is starting to show very much now) would feel more comfortable judging once mature, but overall a very nice representation thus far. A little hyper, but intelligence and drive is there, very quick learner and eager to please off praise reward but somewhat short attention span, must be consistent and keep focus. Great with livestock a natural. Would like to see him calm with maturity and more training/handling and continued exercise to help burn energy. Very nice temperament behaves with confidence, shows interest in things around him, friendly, social and approachable. Again would want to see his mature adult temperament. Would want OFA at least for hips. Would breed if everything turns out great once mature, ect. Not the best picture but just one I picked out quick. Proper pigment.


Male 3 Structure is good, nice depth of chest but sometimes I wonder if it is slightly to deep myself, it just depends when I'm looking at him how he looks. Too much turn to the stifle. Muzzle is a bit snippy although no judge ever really said that it is what I see. It is not too terribly long or snippy but it is just a bit. Pretty minor though. Working ability, drive, quick learner and obedient, intelligent and balanced temperament. Would breed with the right female, compatible for improvement in conformation and a complementary temperament.


Male 4 Lacking some angulation, short muzzle, eyes are not bug eyed are bulging but are pretty big and round. Almond or round are acceptable but I prefer almond and if round not to be so big. Holds the ears in almost full drop position most the time, I'd rather see them half *** or rose ***. Very nice natural muscle tone, overall structure is not bad, great drive, atheletic, not short winded or hindered by shorter muzzle. Could producer very nice to the right complementing female especially with genetic potenial he posses. Not really stacked pics, sorry.



Female 2 Was cow hocked but seemed to pretty much mature out of it, a bit shallow chested, pasterns a little weak, other then that balance and proportion are there. Nice drivey dog, little short winded, good natural muscle, plesant and proper temperament, good energy level and nice focus. Good pigment, not diluted washed out coat or dudley nose. Would breed to the right male to balance out the faults and add wind. Not the best stacked pics but one I found quick.
 
Faults and drawbacks I see sometimes frequently and still being perpetuated.
Poor pigmentation
Skin conditions
Breeding of defective dogs
Lack of health testing overall
Oversized heads
Shallow barrel chest
Extremely short muzzles
Unpreditably man aggressive dogs
Poor shoulder laybacks
Short necks
Weak pasterns
Wide chest/short legs, no proportion or balance
Dogs lacking drive
Dogs lacking overall real intelligence
Poor rear angulation and straigh stifles
Easy westy front ends
Unbalanced temperament
Short, bulky muscle
Grossly obese dogs (that is not so much in the breeding/conformation more an issue with the breeder)
Working breeders breeding dogs of illness or poor structure. Yes I believe form should follow function, when it allows for best function and health to the dog. Breeding a dog of unsound structure that is weak will break down the dog. To work for a few years and then wear down becoming crippled or having to be PTS.
Cancer in some lines, continue to be passed on and afflict next generation

Good things happening
Some breeders of dilutes breeding only strong pigmented dogs without issues associated with other breeders dilutes
Culling unhealthy dogs
Health testing becoming more popular and accepted
Breeders still preserving the correct type (balance, proportion, proper temperament, with good drives and intelligence)
Strong, agile and athletic dogs
Still producing working quality dogs that are versatile
Natural lean muscle still seen in many dogs
Many temperament testing which is cool
Many lines are cancer free and many lines/dogs have longevity producing dogs who live well into old age

Well since Spicy already posted a example of the breed standard I'll just list my faults....

Rory:

 

-Main fault-weight exceeds breed standard

-she is missing a toe, LOL

Seriously though...

-slightly long muzzle

-ears are too long

-Other then that Rory has a amazing topline, nice tight feet, nice tuck and great structure all around. She is a bit tall but her lineage of Castillo line excelled very well in the show ring. Her gait is very impressive as well.She is also made of Hemphill blood which was not used for such honorable purposes but had amazing structure.

Primo, my poor BYB mongrel, LOL

Despite his striking looks he has faults all around, the most evident is his weak topline, it bothers me to no end....

-flat feet

-gay tail

-excessive padding on back skull

-horrible tuck

-flat ears

-bully style head

 

Lastly I just HAD to post my favorite two APBT's

Matrix's Neveah

Marty's LilBit

 

Auroralove your dogs are pretty. I think you are making them out to be worse then they are poor doggies. Rory - there is no breed standard weight most important is balance and proportion not the dogs actual weight. If you have a catch weight dog and a 45lbs dog if the catch weight dog has better structure and conformation it is the better dog. Weight is not considered a fault. Ears are also not faulted. Rory looks too deep chested in the pics but I've never seen her in person, and seems to need a bit more rear angulation, again pics can be deceiving so could be how she is standing or the angle the pic was taken. The young male I posted is also OFRN blood. Primo doesn't seem to have a gay tail in the pic, it looks short is it just the way he is holding it, maybe kind of wagging it? His ears look fine, high set and rose *** in the first photo.
 
Here is the info on ears
UKC

EARS - Ears are high set and may be natural or cropped without preference. If natural, semi-*** or rose are preferred. *** or flat, wide ears are not desired.

ADBA

12. Ears- no preference should be given to cropped or uncropped ears, except to enhance the overall attractiveness of the
individual dog.

 

I don't know if other reg. counts faults on ears or not. I know NKC is a bit different on a few things, AADR is similar to UKC/ADBA on ears. 

 

I'm SOO stupid! I didnt even notice I already replied to this post, LOL....wow, it must be pregnancy brain!!

I tell ya I forget so much lately.

SpicyBulldog, thanks for that! I think I'm such a stickler for breed standard in our breed because so many people have no clue about our breed (as you obviously know). I guess I just want everyone to know a APBT isnt supposed to be 100lbs with bowed legs and a massive head, LOL