DPU:NILIF uses only one quadrant of the Operant Conditioning - Negative Punishment. NegP is taking away something good from the environment until the desired behavior is presented.
Wrong. In fact, wrong TWICE. NO method of training uses only one quadrant of OC.
If I ask for a behaviour in return for a food treat and the dog does not respond correctly, I don't take away the food treat. I HELP the dog get it right and THEN I give the treat. Then I berate myself for pickinga task too hard for the dog and spend more time showing him what I want, and/or pick something easier for him next time. My aim is NOT to take anything away from the dog - I am PRO ACTIVELY aiming to ADD good stuff for desired behaviour.
It is RARE for me to withold something basic like a meal or a walk. They are basic needs that should be met. (one instance I didn't feed the dog straight away because he bit me for example.) Similarly, I would not expect a young puppy or unhousetrained dog to wait patiently at the door. Take this trhead as a prime example - the OP doesn't want to make her pup "earn" chew toys because Puppies Need To Chew - that's perfectly understandable and OK. So as I said, the "nothing" in NILIF is not really accurate.
This is one reason why I prefer to call NILF "Learn to Earn". The dog simply starts to learn to EARN things... like children have to do their chores before being allowed to go to the cinema. It doesn't do THEM any harm either.
DPU: A rigid NILIF program and a repeated barrage of being in frustrating situations can cause these stress hormones to be released too often and possibly making the dog go into a chronic state of fear that will be exhibited with other problem behaviors.
I can't imagine how strict the NILIF programme would have to be to provoke this kind of response. This is extreme. The human in taht position needs to lower the criteria for the dog (de ja vu anyone?) In other words, make it EASY for the dog to get right.
You make it easy in two ways - 1. By teaching the dog what you want before you start, keeping it very simple. Like a sit for example. and 2. Get your timing right so the dog knows PRECISELY how to "earn" that thing he wants. If the dog is being put in a "barrage of frustrating situations" then these criteria (1 and 2) have not been filled by the human. The human should make it EASY for the dog to succeed (have I already said that?) Make it so easy that the dog thinks it's FUN! It's a GAME. He LIKES to "work".
"Give a man a fire and he's warm for a day, but set fire to him and he's warm for the rest of his life." (Pratchett, Jingo)
"I used to look at [my dog] Smokey and think, 'If you were a little smarter you could tell me what you were thinking,' and he'd look at me like he was saying, 'If you were a little smarter, I wouldn't have to.'" - Fred Jungclaus