question with 'watch me' method

    • Gold Top Dog
    Scout is very reactive to squirrels when we are walking. I am always on alert, and the second I see a squirrel or sense her tense up a bit, I immediately put her in a sit or down and use 'watch me'. By getting her attention before she's taken off into squirrel-attack mode, she is still calm enough to pay attention to me. By the time we get up to go again, the squirrel is gone or she has forgotten about it. It is important to be animated with your dog - if you sound like the most boring thing out there, they will definitely be looking for other things to check out.
     
    Like spiritdogs said, if you don't catch it in time, just do a 180 and walk the other way.
    • Gold Top Dog
    I don't know why anyone would use a "watch me" command. I use the dog's name as an attention command, always have. Shouldn't the dog look at you when you say her name?

    And yes, if attention is properly trained, the dog should be attentive under ALL circumstances. If you want to see attention under distraction, view my post called "heeling clips", and watch my dog in the presence of the Min Pin right under her nose. ;)
    • Gold Top Dog
    what nern and spiritdogs said. 
    Use whatever command you want. I don't use "watch me" either, never seen the need. Practicing calling the dog's name and rewarding for instant attention on you multiple times a day every day is good for all dogs.
    • Gold Top Dog
    I don't have an objection to a "watch" command.  In some cases, I think it's useful -for example, if you are not the only human in the house (so the other humans overuse the dog's name, making it "background noise").
    • Gold Top Dog
    See I told you Anne would have a solution for you...she's spiritdogs [:)]!
    • Gold Top Dog
    ORIGINAL: fisher6000

    No, I don't understand.

    Why would a leash pop stimulate a dog?

    This is getting silly... I must have something better to do.

     
    Like i asked before, what makes you think a leash pop is to stimulate?
     
    ORIGINAL: inne

    Fisher - although I'm doing +R training, I have had two moments of panic where I did give light leash pops (god, I regretted them SO MUCH afterwards) and they definitely got her attention.   I can understand why people do it, but I would never do it again.

     
    Well they work but your mistake was doing it in a moment of "panic", the dog sense the panic and it does not matter if you have an AK-47 in your hands, if the dog feels you are in panic or doubtful he will know you are not in charge
    • Gold Top Dog
    My mistake was doing it at all.   While it resulted in exactly the behaviour I wanted, I just don't agree with that type of training method and I'm not comfortable using it.
    • Gold Top Dog
    I was holding off on this one until I figured out just what was being asked, but I think now I'm ready to add my two bits....
     
    Marlowe is highly reactive to squirrells and other fuzzy critters that run up trees. Both dogs are way reactive to outside cats. We're primarily working with Marlowe now, but Conrad is next on the list to deal with the cat thing, but here's what I did....
     
    First, I trained for attention while walking. I noticed that Marlowe rarely if ever looked back at me when we were walking together and that was something I wanted to change. So, I began to carry treats with me on our walks. At first, if he'd just glance back at me, he'd get a reward. Then I upped the ante after he was looking back reliably. I'd only reward when he walked closer to me and looked at me. Once I had him in the habit of giving good attention, we tackled the squirrell situation. He's a former hunting dog, extremely prey-driven, so I had to lower my standards a bit. I came up with a behavior that would be still rewarding to him without pulling my arm off and injuring his neck.
     
    When I see him go into an alert posture, I stop walking. This gets his attention pretty fast because we're no longer approaching his target. I actually use the cue "stop" when I'm walking that lets the dogs know we're about to stop moving as a unit (at a cross-walk, in order to wait for other dogs to pass, whenever we need to stop moving). So, I say "stop" and I put Marlowe into a sit. At first, I'll admit, there was some mild butt-pushing. With a highly prey-driven dog who is staring straight at potential quarry, the brain kind of shuts off and a reliable "sit" on vocal command just was not happening (any more, I just have to touch his bum gently with a finger to remind him of the "sit"). But once he sat, he got to stay as long as he wanted and watch the squirrell quietly, from a sitting position. That is his reward. No, not as fun as actually catching and eating the squirrell, but better than nothing, and definately better than a food reward. The very manic nature of squirrells generally means that we are in this position only for a few moments, as the squirrell has soon left the general area and is no longer visible. Before moving on, I make sure I have Marlowe's full attention, I talk to him a little, then I give the release word ("Ok!") and we walk again. 
     
    I do not expect Marlowe to ever not want to chase and tree small game. Ever. This sitting and watching behavior is for life and is one of the compromises I make for having a working dog as my pet. However, as the months have gone on, the frequency with which we have to do this has gone way down (and we take our walks in a section of town called "Squirrell Hill"!), to the point where I only have to do it once every few walks. We've gone from him literally dragging me and having to be walked alone because of his unpredictable reactivity to being able to walk twice a day every day along with our other dog, quite politely. It seems that the amount of stimulation he needs to trigger his drives has increased quite a bit, but I don't have enough understanding of that phenomenon to really say what has caused it.
     
    Right now, as we've not begun working with Conrad on the cat thing (the problem there is we encounter outside cats very infrequently so training opportunities are hard to come by), I just turn around and walk the other way.
     
    I think "watch me" is a fine command to teach, and you can also come up with a command that means "walk nex to me and stare at me" so the watching doesn't mean that motion ceases.
    • Silver
    I want to thank all of you who participated in this thread. You have given good advice.

    Spiritdogs - You made a good point about leash popping and reactive dogs.

    Another good point was brought up regarding the use of the dog's name or another word or phrase such as 'watch me'. In my situation with small children who are constantly calling Katie's name, I think another phrase would be better.

    Houndlove - Thank you for your advice also...very practical.

    Now that I am understanding the 'watch me' method better and the philosophy behind it, I can now work with Katie more effectively.

    Thank you,
    Mozilla
    • Gold Top Dog
    Good luck! It's not as hard as it seems, it just requires really learning how to watch your dog.
    • Gold Top Dog
    We are working with Sally on focus issues, so I do feel you pain.  As far as the leash pops, I'm gonna go with fisher on this one.  Once she has seen a squirrl I could collar pop until I'm blue in the face, and unless I physically pull her towards me, it has no reall effect (and even if I pull he towards me she is still squirrl-focused.
     
    What I have found is best is redirecting--having her do something else, and if she does it, she gets rewarded--sits, downs puppy pushups, rapid turns--SOMETHING to keep the mind off the squirrl.
     
    I've tried both things in real life situations, and at least for me, this has been more effective.